Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

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Conrad
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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by Conrad »

I read the 'Sweaptline Radiators from Champion' thread viewtopic.php?f=5&t=39846 and started researching radiators - assuming that I'll need to put in a more efficient radiator to deal with Texas heat.

It seems like everyone here likes them - but I read concerns in the forums 440 owners have had with Champion and other aluminum radiators getting too hot and longevity. (Hard to tell with many of these posts because they go back as far as 8 years ago.) My main interest is in longevity, as I can easily use an oil cooler and a trans cooler separately to keep temps down.

On the Champion site, the 2.5" radiators are not currently available - but the 2.75" are. Not sure how much difference that makes. But was interested in thoughts on that.


US Radiator (now owned by Be Cool) has a more classic style top cap http://www.usradiator.com/dodge-truck-1 ... -2289.html. I like that - just don't know if that's worth it to me more than if I know I'm getting a higher quality product made in the USA, I don't mind paying double. But the hard part is finding a place that will put in the order as it is a custom piece.

US Radiator lists the following dimensions:

Make / Model Dodge Truck
Year(s) 1964-69
Engine V8 383
Notes 1/2-3/4 Ton
Core Size 20 x 22-5/8
Core Thickness 2-5/8"

Make / Model Dodge Truck
Year(s) 1970-71
Engine V8 383
Notes 1/2-1 Ton, Original Core 26" Wide
Core Size 18 x 26
Core Thickness 2" (3 row) or 2-5/8" (4 row)

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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by my5thmopar »

You linked to a post I started since I wasn't able to find a direct replacement. I had one quote from somewhere (don't remember) but, I think it was USRad for $775. The two issues I discovered was the brackets and the core width. Front mounting with outlets top RH, lower LH.29" wide with bracket, 2.75 3row. My 70 D200 with 383 has factory AC. Maybe that's why I just couldn't get a drop in or I didn't find one. Again, my aim was more stock.... I don't think you will have any issue cooling with a 3 row aluminum radiator and some minor modification. I did have to cut the shroud to clear the bottom outlet. On a 100 degree day with A/C full blast the engine stays cool with the Champion

I think bamm67d100 in the post has a very nice looking set up and maybe he or others will chime in with suggestions. I just had my original re-cored (4 core) for $400 but, my D200 is a stock 45k truck. Keep us posted!

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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by MadMC63 »

I had my stock radiator re-cored, all my original tanks would support, from two to three flues at a cost of $595.00 at the beginning of last year. I know it was a steep price but I really wanted the stock look. Haven't had any over heating problems but if I do I will fill in the stock fan shroud to fit aftermarket electric fans.
1971 Dodge D100
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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by franktiregod »

This isn't about Dodge but it is about the aluminum radiators so I will throw it out there.

I have a 59 Ford Custom 300. The stock radiator was in bad shape when I got it so I looked into aluminum. I found one from a dealer who was gonna be at a car show about 3 hours from my house. So instead of paying shipping I met him there since I was going to the show anyhow.

The radiator looked great. It had the appearance of the stock one. I bought it. But when I went to install it, the mounting holes were about 1/4" off on each side so they wouldn't line up with the stock holes in the radiator support.

Luckily this is a hot rod so it wasn't that big of a deal. I just notched the holes on the radiator out further to make it fit. It isn't noticeable but that could have been a bad experience.

I am watching this because I may need one for my D200.

Thanks for all the info.
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Conrad
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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by Conrad »

Apologies for the new thread. I had meant to add this post to the previous thread but for some reason I had two windows opened and posted from the wrong window. In any event, thank you all for your thoughts.

FWIW, Wizard Cooling lists the following dimensions (including brackets) listed as:
61-64: 30"w x 23 5/8"h x 3"d (https://wizardcooling.com/content/92010-100.pdf)
66-69: 29 3/16"w x 22 5/16"h x 3 1/16"d (https://wizardcooling.com/content/1640-110.pdf)

I'm ok with modifying the support as that's not something you can see readily. There's plenty of metal there to work with. I was reading the Big Block Dart forum, and those folks even squeeze in 36" radiators across the entire width of the car and notch their fenders/frames to fit. Arguably that's probably needed for a Hemi stroker.

I found some good feedback for Smiths Racing Radiators. He says he'll custom fabricate a radiator of any size. I'm still holding out for a classic looking top however.

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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by Kaegi »

I would go copper and brass. aluminum has limitations to the amount it can cool and copper brass really doesn't. aluminum cools a little faster but will stop cooling at a certain point copper wont. and Dodges are cold blooded anyway. the cooling jackets aropundthecylinders are full length. they hold much more water the gm and ford. I have been out on the trails (90 plus degree temps) for years with dodges and been the only one not having over heating issues in groups of Toyotas, jeeps, ford and gm .

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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by flammulator »

Hello from germany,
I am driving a 26" 4row Champion radiator.
Fits and i have no Problems at all through the last hot Summer in germany.
Rene

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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by Conrad »

That's pretty much the type of aluminum radiator experiences I've seen - it works or it doesn't, it is the best radiator or it leaks like crazy... I don't doubt that the ones that work are really great, but it is really disappointing that most of the manufacturers out there have such a varying quality control.

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Re: Champion vs. U.S. Radiators

Post by bamm67d100 »

I've had a champion radiator in my truck for over a year now. No leaks and cools just fine. I did immediately put a new cap on it though. The one it came with looked suspect.

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