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1967 Dodge D100 318 and I need to replace this ugly swollen example... :)

Where is the best place to get the hose?

Oh BTW I'm going to do all the hoses and a new thermostat - Do I get the 180 degree or 160 thermostat?

Thanks!

Alpine, Ca? Then it probably doesn't need a thermostat, but 160 should do.

Bucky

Yes, that is a bypass hose

Thanks guys!

712edf wrote:Alpine, Ca? Then it probably doesn't need a thermostat, but 160 should do.

Bucky

I was always under the impression that you DO need a thermostat so it would have some "back pressure. Me personally, I would at least run the 160 job.

Yeah I'm going to stick with OEM 180 T-Stat - And BTW in the winter we get in the low 30's and average in the low 50's for a few months... ;)

Warren wrote:Yeah I'm going to stick with OEM 180 T-Stat - And BTW in the winter we get in the low 30's and average in the low 50's for a few months... ;)

180 Sounds good! From what I "understand" about thermostats is, they OPEN at the Specified Temp on the thermostat. So, using a 160 thermostat will OPEN at 160 but a 180 won't open until the water temp gets to 180 then after they are open, BOTH will allow the same water flow through the system. Using a colder thermostat will NOT make your engine run cooler. Some may argue this... But, this is how I've always understood them on how they work.

Jims68 wrote:

Warren wrote:Yeah I'm going to stick with OEM 180 T-Stat - And BTW in the winter we get in the low 30's and average in the low 50's for a few months... ;)

180 Sounds good! From what I "understand" about thermostats is, they OPEN at the Specified Temp on the thermostat. So, using a 160 thermostat will OPEN at 160 but a 180 won't open until the water temp gets to 180 then after they are open, BOTH will allow the same water flow through the system. Using a colder thermostat will NOT make your engine run cooler. Some may argue this... But, this is how I've always understood them on how they work.

Yep You've got it correct. :)

Then why with NO stat (in effect a ZERO degree stat) does my engine run so damn cold that the gauge barely registers, it won't defrost the windows and I freeze my @#% off cuz the heater makes no heat?

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Then why with NO stat, in effect a ZERO degree stat, does my engine run so damn cold that the gauge barely registers, it won't defrost the windows and I freeze my @#% off cuz the heater makes no heat?

I just need to look this up to see exactly why... and this makes "sense". .

OK, I googled and found This: Removing the thermostat removes the cars ability to make the heater in the passenger area of the car work. It holds the engine coolant in the engine instead of letting it flow to the radiator where it will cool down and allows the coolant to warm up which is what allows the car to blow heat into the passenger compartment. If the thermostat gets stuck, Then the coolant never flows to the radiator and stays in the engine and superheats which will ruin your engine by cracking the head. BUT, removing the thermostat allows the coolant to constantly flow to the radiator and through the fins in the radiator cooling it constantly and never allowing the coolant to get warm enough to generate enough heat for your passenger compartment heater.

Jims68 wrote:

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Then why with NO stat, in effect a ZERO degree stat, does my engine run so damn cold that the gauge barely registers, it won't defrost the windows and I freeze my @#% off cuz the heater makes no heat?

I just need to look this up to see exactly why... and this makes "sense". .

OK, I googled and found This: Removing the thermostat removes the cars ability to make the heater in the passenger area of the car work. It holds the engine coolant in the engine instead of letting it flow to the radiator where it will cool down and allows the coolant to warm up which is what allows the car to blow heat into the passenger compartment. If the thermostat gets stuck, Then the coolant never flows to the radiator and stays in the engine and superheats which will ruin your engine by cracking the head. BUT, removing the thermostat allows the coolant to constantly flow to the radiator and through the fins in the radiator cooling it constantly and never allowing the coolant to get warm enough to generate enough heat for your passenger compartment heater.

So in fact, a 160 degree stat will keep the engine at 160 and a 180 at 180, in normal operating conditions.

Thermostats begin to open at the temperature stamped on them and most are fully opened about 20 degrees F after that. An engine that has a low operating temperature may have poor fuel economy, can dilute the engine oil because of unburned fuel and can form sludge in the crankcase due to excessive condensation of water in the crankcase, especially in the winter months. Remember, the coolant temperature is exactly that, the coolant temperature, not necessarily the engine temperature. I run 180 degree F thermostats and regularly see coolant temps of 200-220 F degrees when towing.
I highly recommend the book ENGINE COOLING SYSTEMS by Ray T. Bohacz. It is only about $25.00. There is a lot of good info on cooling system theory and design.

The 160 t-stat opens at 160, the 180 t-stat opens at 180. They should flow the same when open, if same design.

Yes a warmer engine has better emissions & less cylinder wear, but a 50 year old engine is pretty well broken in anyways. Carbs work better when they aren't ice cold too.

In Texas & warm climates its was common to remove the thermostat back in the day.

Bucky

to answer your second question,
i got my bypass hose at the local NAPA

they had the right size for the outlets on my '69..

i had previously ordered a mopar performance hose online, but it ended up being oversized,
kindof like the one on your truck now (and just like the one i was trying to replace)
i might've had to trim it an inch or so...

coelcanth wrote:to answer your second question,
i got my bypass hose at the local NAPA

they had the right size for the outlets on my '69..

i had previously ordered a mopar performance hose online, but it ended up being oversized,
kindof like the one on your truck now (and just like the one i was trying to replace)
i might've had to trim it an inch or so...

Thanks! Found one at Autozone - Will be replacing all hoses and belts next weekend. :)

Also, if you climb a big hill and the engine warms up a little, when you go down the other side, the temp will fall and there will be no back pressure, this in turn will cause a hose to collapse causing the engine to overheat...............always run a thermostat.

any parts store has the bypass hose. I carry a spare in my truck ( along with lots of extra electrical pieces ) in case of break down.

I run the 180 as this was the stock stat for most every V8 mopar in the 60s - 80s. I do drive my truck during colder weather and the 160 in deed would make for a colder ride in the cab. The 180 doesnt mean that temp will magically stay at 180, as thread says, its when it opens up to allow coolant to flow through radiator. On a 80ish degree day, yes, im staying at 180 while moving. On 90 plus, it creeps up a tad, when pulling a trailer, it creeps up. As long as Im moving never overheated, stays at 200 max. When stopped at 90 plus, it will also go up to 200 unless I slightly rev motor or in emergency case, when in very slow traffic for long periods of time ( mopar nationals ) pop hood a few inches and this brings it down to normal. Hoods hold in heat!!!!!

Hope this helps!!!!