Power assist steering.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

I see from Bill's post the illustration is in the parts book, not the service manual. Whatever, the illustration shows the left and right hoses opposite of how u described them above.

[MadMC63]

Actually it describes them to be in exactly the same positions as the diagram.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Yup, I got twisted up with the all the lefts and rights.
So since its all hooked up right, now u need to diagnose the hydraulic system itself and find where there is a leaking seal, a blocked line, or lack of pressure from the pump.

[MadMC63]

I'm out pricing gauges now. Will probably have to build a manifold to be able to place the gauge inline. I thought back over all of the conversations I've had with the shops that rebuilt stuff and I recall the ram rebuild. During that conversation I was told a lot of these old cylinders have metal rings like a piston ring. That was after I picked it up. Doesn't sound like they knew what was inside and I know the cylinder was never cut open.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

If they didn't open the cylinder, what the hell is there to rebuild? All it is is a tube with a piston that moves back and forth. The only replaceable parts are the seals on the piston and around the rod. Easy to test, see my post from last week. I picked one up from my parts stash Saturday and the rod can't be pulled out with a finger over the tubing port.

[pismopowerwagon]

If they didn't open the cylinder, what the hell is there to rebuild? All it is is a tube with a piston that moves back and forth. The only replaceable parts are the seals on the piston and around the rod. Easy to test, see my post from last week. I picked one up from my parts stash Saturday and the rod can't be pulled out with a finger over the tubing port.

X2 on that, I wonder what they did to it.

Keep trying you will get it

[MadMC63]

When I was most recently reinstalling the hoses I put my fingers over the holes on the cylinder to figure out which was right and left turn. I used my feet to push the tire while I held my fingers over the holes, pushed the wheels to the right. The left turn side pushed my finger away with fluid pressure and the right turn side sucked my finger tip in. I will definitely try what you have suggested before I do anything else.

[MadMC63]

Where do I look for that post?

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Sat Jun 18, 2016 8:50 am

U could try disconnecting the ram from the axle and see if it goes in and out when u turn the wheel back and forth. (wheels off the ground, engine running). Before testing it with engine on, hold steering wheel full left or right and try to pull it in and out by hand. If u can move it, the ram piston seal is bad.

U simply need to check the system one step at a time to see where the anomaly is.

Sounds like u already did the cold test with your finger and the seals in the ram are ok.
Do the test above. If the ram doesn't move, there is either no pressure from the pump, or the control valve has a problem.

[MadMC63]

zkemp82.. You're all heart buddy.

[pismopowerwagon]

All fixed?

[MadMC63]

No not yet, I had to go to work. Pesky job really hinders things. I know its been several days but I'm still waiting on the gauge to arrive so I can verify pressures.

[pismopowerwagon]

No not yet, I had to go to work. Pesky job really hinders things. I know its been several days but I'm still waiting on the gauge to arrive so I can verify pressures.

EEEWWW he said that four letter word "WORK"

[MadMC63]

The gauge is out for delivery today so hopefully in the next couple of days I'll have some pressure readings to share.

[MadMC63]

O.K. It's just me so all of the test haven't been completed yet. The pressure test shows roughly 90 to 100 psi at idle.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

FSM says 25-85 psi at idle with wheels straight ahead. In the specs the pump is listed at 900-1000 max psi. If u are measuring pressure at the pump input to the control valve, and u turn the wheel, pressure should increase greatly to many hundred psi.
How and where did u connect the gauge to get the 100 psi reading?

[MadMC63]

The pressure is approximately 100 psi. My eye's aren't great and the gauge has big gaps between numbers. The gauge is a ATD-5556 Power Steering And Rack Tester. The gauge reads 0, line, line, 200. The reading is between the first and second line being closer to the second line. The dead head test is approximately 900 psi. This I believe confirms the pump is good. As I am only one person I can't check the turning pressures yet. I'll need a second person for that and it will have to be on their schedule. Based on what I have been reading through other sources the lock right or left test should have similar results meaning once the wheel is turned fully right or left the reading should be very similar to the dead head test. If the readings differ a lot it would be an indication of a internal leakage problem with the ram.

[MadMC63]

Sorry, the gauge is connected between the pump and the control valve.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Yes, at full lock the pressure should be near the pump max. But as soon as there is turning motion at the wheel, the pressure should should also rise significantly.
Where the pitman arm connects to the control valve there should be about 3/8" play forward and back. That is the motion that moves the spool back and forth inside the valve. U do have that movement, correct? Maybe your rebuilder thought that "slop" was wear and did something to block it? If that is the case, then this line in your June 12 post would be the answer: Its as if it isn't being actuated.

[MadMC63]

There is no adjustment externally on this control valve. After that post I removed the valve and disassembled it completely. When I did this I found extreme corrosion on the pitman arm side of the valve. That problem was resolved at that time so that the ball stud and all of those parts moved freely but I'll have to revisit that when I have the second person.