Still can't get this old Crew Cab started!

[rispony]

Hey all,

I recently acquired a 64 crew cab with a 318 Poly last month from CA that's was amazing shape. I live in New York but I was in California at the time and test drove it for all of 5 minutes and it ran great from what I could tell. I had the truck shipped back to NY and since it's arrival, I still haven't been able to get it running. Here's the list of steps I took to get it started.

Turned the key for the first time and nothing so I replaced the battery. Turned the key again the lights came on but still northing so I rebuilt the starter. After that I got it cranking but it wouldn't stay. Decided it was a gas problem. Pulled the gas tank and steam cleaned all the old varnish out of it and coated it and rebent all new fuel lines. Also replaced the fuel filter and rubber hoses. Then I realized the fuel pump wasn't pumping any gas so I replaced that too. Still nothing. After eliminating any issues with the fuel delivery, I worked on the spark.

I used a spark tester which showed I was getting spark to the plugs but decided to give it a tune up anyways so I could eliminate that problem later on down the line. I replaced the plugs, wires, points, cap, rotor, and coil and inserted a new ballast resistor cause I heard these old dodge trucks just eat resistors for some reason. Still wouldn't turn on.

I then pulled the carb and fully rebuilt it cause I thought it was an air problem. Took me a while to find a rebuild kit for the Stromberg WW but I finally did and now the carb is all cleaned up and back on the truck. Turned the key and the truck turned on for all of 5 minutes. I tried to get the idle down and wasn't exactly sure which screws were which. I killed the engine and went inside to get my shop manual. When I came back outside, I turned the key and heard nothing. Then I started seeing smoke billowing out of the engine bay. The starter was red hot and on fire! I extinguished the fire and pulled the starter which is completely toast. I brought it to my alternator/starter guy and he said he hasn't seen something like this in the 35 years he's been doing this. There is no short anywhere and he has no idea why it would have caught fire.

If anyone can help me out, that would be much appreciated. I'm dying to get this thing running so I can drive it around these next couple weeks. Winter is slowly approaching here in NY and soon the truck will have to go in storage until there is no more salt on the roads! Thanks in advance!

[slick]

Have you checked out the starter relay/solenoid on the drivers side fender that feeds the starter? Maybe something in there is shorted out causing to much or not enough power to the starter? On the carb just double check you have the correct gaskets on there. If it's possibly the wrong one covering one little hole it could cause it to run bad or not at all. Or like me, I pulled it apart to check the float/needle valve and didn't realize the gasket had fallen out of the 2 halves of the carb. Couldn't get it to idle at all. Buddy and I pulled it apart and soon realized the gasket was missing. Ran like a champ after that Also double check your amp guage/wire, these trucks are notorious for frying that wire or wiring through the bulkhead on the firewall. I'm no expert, just throwing out ideas.

[Mangra]

My 64 must be like yours. I took it home after a 15 mile trip and no starter. The battery cables were very hot. I replaced the cables and poof the starter almost started a fire. My starter relay was stuck and sent full juice to the starter.
It destroyed my starter also.
good luck
robert

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Starters ALWAYS get FULL JUICE. If they didn't, they wouldn't be able to turn the engine. There is no voltage regulator in the circuit that reduces the current flow to a starter.
But, if the starter relay or the solenoid on the starter sticks, and the starter runs too long, it will overheat until it destructs. No different than holding the key on for lengthy periods cranking an engine that won't start up. The starter heats up in that case also.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

....The starter was red hot and on fire!.....There is no short anywhere and he has no idea why it would have caught fire....

Wrong, there IS A SHORT! Otherwise, it would not be red hot and on fire. U need to find it.

[WD]

....The starter was red hot and on fire!.....There is no short anywhere and he has no idea why it would have caught fire....

Wrong, there IS A SHORT! Otherwise, it would not be red hot and on fire. U need to find it.

Usually the fender mounted relay. Been there more than once. The aftermarket ones are very poorly made.

[rispony]

Thank you all so much for your replies. I've managed to dig a little deeper into the problem and have ruled out the relay by bringing it to a shop and having it tested. I also contacted my starter rebuilder and he told me that he still has not found anything out of the ordinary that could have caused the issue. Therefore I am ruling out the starter as the problems.

I believe that's it's a problem with my ignition switch so I contacted Vintage Power Wagons and have on on order. When I purchased the truck, the PO had the original ignition switch in the glovebox. The current one is an aftermarket ignition extremely similar to the factory one. This leads me to believe that he had already had issues with it in the past.

I'm thinking that when I turn the key past the run position to engage the starter, it turns the truck on, but although it springs back to the run position, it is somehow still sending power to the starter causing the S-terminal to glow red hot and make it catch fire. Hopefully after I install this new ignition switch, the problem will be solved. Wish me luck and thanks again!

[slick]

I think you're on the right path...

[Coldsteel]

great now it wont burn down on you next time but it still needs to start right?
By the way I had a 1600 grain truck do the same thing to me. It ran then just stopped dead. After replacing everything under the hood because I couldn't figure it out. The start wore out. When I removed it. I noticed a big hole was in the starter that you couldn't see.
If by chance the starter doesn't and new ignition doesn't start it up. Pour gas just a little and I mean A LITTLE into the carb and see if it will turn over. This way you know it got fuel. Starter fluid is bad stuff its better this way. If it starts, I would say to inspect your fuel lines filter for rust particles and sending unit. Did you find lots of rust in your fuel tank? Search google to treat the rust. I believe they are gonna tell you to use a acid to eat away. I used a boat gas tank a temp set up. I worked great actually. I believe your carb was already rebuilt but if you tried running it again with the same garbage going into it. You might have to rebuild it again. I had this exact same problem with my truck I bought on a farm. Ran great! Then died. It was rust in the tank.
IF the fuel turns out to be just fine.
You only have spark and time left. Check the points and replace. When you replace them use a match book to set the gap AND remove the film the factor puts on them. A business card will do but make sure to remove that film. Then rough up the capacitor too. See if you are getting spark inside. I hate advising people on plugs and wires because half the time they don't need them and almost never is that the issue. One more check. Turn off the lights and see if you see any spark coming from the engine bay.
**NOT ALLOWED**/dodge-ele ... tline.html
This is where I get my electrical parts from and my fuel sending unit. These guys have good service. I would look at replacing the resistors as well or atleast keep one around. Mine smokes if I leave the ignition on without starting it. I'm to cheap to replace till I get my moneys worth out of the first one lol.

Sorry got side tracked, last is timing cause you have blue spark, fuel and air at this point. put it on TDC on the number one piston. Google the proceeder. IDK the exact process and don't wont to misguide you.