well i picked up my sweptie

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Hobcobble
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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by Hobcobble »

PwrWgnDrvr wrote: Where did he say to use old crusty bad stuff?
Is it the 80W-OldCrustyBadStuff? :thinking :thinking :joker

John

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by marklein »

The 2-3 syncronizer is made of aluminum with steel endplates. I made the mistake a few years ago at my shop of putting synthetic in a 435. It was a fresh rebuild, with new bearings and syncros, you could not shift it into 3rd or 4th, it would just grind. Brought it back to the shop, put regular 80-90 in it, problem solved. Some units cannot utilize synthetics, just too slippery.

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by builder »

Hobcobble wrote:
PwrWgnDrvr wrote: Where did he say to use old crusty bad stuff?
Is it the 80W-OldCrustyBadStuff? :thinking :thinking :joker

John

lol 80-90 is old stuff but if it works i'll use it

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by Jims68 »

builder wrote:

lol 80-90 is old stuff but if it works i'll use it
Remember... these are OLD trucks too! :lol: and that oil is really what they were designed to use. :salut Like I said above, I used the 80/90 gear lube oil in mine and it shifts great (3 speed). :Thumbsup
Jim

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

Analogy:
Engines of the swept era were designed to run on "0ld" leaded gas. Using "new" unleaded gas eats up the valve seats and destroys them.

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by WD »

Keep in mind that modern car oil will destroy your camshaft. Heavy duty oils only in your old engines... Rotella, any grade. Delo, Delvac, whatever the farm co-op, feed store, tractor dealership stocks. Car oil does not have enough zinc to protect vintage engines, to and including current production air cooled motorcycles.

I ran Delo 15W40 in my truck moving cross country in 2011. Fully laden, towing a horse trailer that weighs nearly what the truck does. That same oil is still honey colored, all this time later. Engine runs smoothly, does not smoke, has zero top end noise, even with over a ton loaded in the bed.

The right lubricants make a huge improvement to older vehicles. Marine grade grease, Diesel engine oil, the heaviest gear oil you can pump into the axle(s), 75W in the manual transmission, replace one bottle of Dexron-Mercon 3 with Type F in automatics...
If I didn't build it, it ain't mine.

1949 Dodge B1B-108; 1969 D100-128; 72 Super Beetle; and a bunch of others...

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by builder »

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Analogy:
Engines of the swept era were designed to run on "0ld" leaded gas. Using "new" unleaded gas eats up the valve seats and destroys them.
actually according to my automotive machinist , Mopar guy for 40 years, he says that some seats burn and some dont I use a led additive but not all the time btw.

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by builder »

but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by Hobcobble »

builder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch master
cylinders. They'll give you a much longer period of trouble free service. A
guy by the name of John Geidl sells them. There may even be a stainless
lined clutch slave cylinder too?.... :thinking :2cents
John

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by swptln »

WD wrote: replace one bottle of Dexron-Mercon 3 with Type F in automatics...
If you run Mopar ATF+4 instead of Dextron, you don't have put Type F in you automatic. :shame
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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by swptln »

builder wrote:
PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Analogy:
Engines of the swept era were designed to run on "0ld" leaded gas. Using "new" unleaded gas eats up the valve seats and destroys them.
actually according to my automotive machinist , Mopar guy for 40 years, he says that some seats burn and some dont I use a led additive but not all the time btw.
Most likely the seats were gone before they started using the unleaded fuel...........if everything is right in a motor you don't need additives. The only thing today that does need to be addressed as far as engines go is the lack of zinc in engine oils, all freshly built engines need zinc for break-in purposes. Once they are broke in you can go full synthetic if you choose. That is why all your good engine builders will use STP as an assembly lube on bearings, pistons, rings, etc., camshaft assembly lube also has zinc in it and is the reason for using it on a new cam. Joe Gibbs, Kendall and a couple others sell break-in oil with zinc designed for breaking in new engines. It only takes 45-60 minutes to break-in a motor if done right, you dump the oil, put fresh oil, a filter and done. :2cents
Mark D.

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by swptln »

Hobcobble wrote:
builder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch master
cylinders. They'll give you a much longer period of trouble free service. A
guy by the name of John Geidl sells them. There may even be a stainless
lined clutch slave cylinder too?.... :thinking :2cents
John
DOT 5 works real well too. :Thumbsup
Mark D.

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1969 D100 Utiline
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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by Jims68 »

swptln wrote:
DOT 5 works real well too. :Thumbsup
Is DOT 5 Compatible with DOT 3? In other words... do you have to "flush" out the DOT 3 before using DOT 5? OR can you just empty out the master cyl and slave cyl as best as you can and then add it?
Jim

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

Jims68 wrote:
swptln wrote:
DOT 5 works real well too. :Thumbsup
Is DOT 5 Compatible with DOT 3? In other words... do you have to "flush" out the DOT 3 before using DOT 5? OR can you just empty out the master cyl and slave cyl as best as you can and then add it?
NOT COMPATIBLE!

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by Jims68 »

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:
Jims68 wrote:
swptln wrote:
DOT 5 works real well too. :Thumbsup
Is DOT 5 Compatible with DOT 3? In other words... do you have to "flush" out the DOT 3 before using DOT 5? OR can you just empty out the master cyl and slave cyl as best as you can and then add it?
NOT COMPATIBLE!
Thanks! I will leave well enough alone then! :salut Why fix it if it aint broke? :lol:
Jim

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by swptln »

jims68 wrote:Thanks! I will leave well enough alone then! :salut Why fix it if it aint broke? :lol:
Jim, the clutch system is pretty easy to flush. Disconnect the line at the master, open the bleeder on the slave and it will drain right out, pump the master into a can or container and then hook everything back up. Then add your DOT 5 and bleed it out till all the fluid coming out is purple and no air, and your done.
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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by builder »

Hobcobble wrote:
builder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch master
cylinders. They'll give you a much longer period of trouble free service. A
guy by the name of John Geidl sells them. There may even be a stainless
lined clutch slave cylinder too?.... :thinking :2cents
John

could you not just use dot 5 which has less of the characteristic of absorbing moisture? never heard of that does not mean I wont use it. but as of the recent decline of the loonie Canadian buck anything stateside is worth a small fortune.

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by builder »

did I ever tell you guys that these trucks are so ugly they are beautiful. BTW dot 4 is compatible with 3

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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by swptln »

builder wrote:did I ever tell you guys that these trucks are so ugly they are beautiful. BTW dot 4 is compatible with 3
They are not compatible, DOT 3 has a lower boiling point than DOT 4. Both 3 & 4 will absorb moisture which dramatically lowers both 3 & 4's point of boiling.
DOT 4 has a higher viscosity than DOT 3. DOT 4 has a slower absorbsion rate of moisture than DOT 3, but it's boiling point drops faster as it absorbs moisture than DOT 3.
DOT 4 is recommended to be changed more often than DOT 3 due to this. Supposedly there can be issues with ABS brakes too, switching to different fluids 3 vs 4 or visa-versa.
DOT 5 which is silicone based and will not absorb moisture which keeps it boiling point stable.
So, DOT 5 in my opinion is the best of all 3.
The biggest problem with the hydro-clutch setup is it's location of the slave being constantly exposed to dramatic temperature changes, which causes condensation.....so, switching to DOT 5 is going to help dramatically and it is a pretty easy swap.
These are the minimum US Department of Transportation (DOT) rating.

Fluid________________Dry ERBP (°F)_______________Wet ERBP (°F)_______________Viscosity Limit_________________Chemical
Grade______________@ 0.0% H2O__________________@ 3.7% H2O__________________(Cp @-40°F)__________________Composition



DOT 3________________401__________________________284_______________________1500 mm2/s_________________Glycol Ether Based



DOT 4________________446__________________________311_______________________1800 mm2/s_________________Glycol Ether / Borate Ester



DOT 5 (SSBF)__________500__________________________356________________________900 mm2/s____________________Silicone Based



DOT 5.1______________500__________________________356________________________900 mm2/s__________________Borate Ester/ Glycol Ether
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1969 D100 Utiline
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Re: well i picked up my sweptie

Post by builder »

Hobcobble wrote:
builder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch master
cylinders. They'll give you a much longer period of trouble free service. A
guy by the name of John Geidl sells them. There may even be a stainless
lined clutch slave cylinder too?.... :thinking :2cents
John
nope because I already orderd the parts and they are stock till i figure out the way this is going.

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