Is it the 80W-OldCrustyBadStuff?PwrWgnDrvr wrote: Where did he say to use old crusty bad stuff?
John
Is it the 80W-OldCrustyBadStuff?PwrWgnDrvr wrote: Where did he say to use old crusty bad stuff?
Hobcobble wrote:Is it the 80W-OldCrustyBadStuff?PwrWgnDrvr wrote: Where did he say to use old crusty bad stuff?
John
Remember... these are OLD trucks too! and that oil is really what they were designed to use. Like I said above, I used the 80/90 gear lube oil in mine and it shifts great (3 speed).builder wrote:
lol 80-90 is old stuff but if it works i'll use it
actually according to my automotive machinist , Mopar guy for 40 years, he says that some seats burn and some dont I use a led additive but not all the time btw.PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Analogy:
Engines of the swept era were designed to run on "0ld" leaded gas. Using "new" unleaded gas eats up the valve seats and destroys them.
I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch masterbuilder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
If you run Mopar ATF+4 instead of Dextron, you don't have put Type F in you automatic.WD wrote: replace one bottle of Dexron-Mercon 3 with Type F in automatics...
Most likely the seats were gone before they started using the unleaded fuel...........if everything is right in a motor you don't need additives. The only thing today that does need to be addressed as far as engines go is the lack of zinc in engine oils, all freshly built engines need zinc for break-in purposes. Once they are broke in you can go full synthetic if you choose. That is why all your good engine builders will use STP as an assembly lube on bearings, pistons, rings, etc., camshaft assembly lube also has zinc in it and is the reason for using it on a new cam. Joe Gibbs, Kendall and a couple others sell break-in oil with zinc designed for breaking in new engines. It only takes 45-60 minutes to break-in a motor if done right, you dump the oil, put fresh oil, a filter and done.builder wrote:actually according to my automotive machinist , Mopar guy for 40 years, he says that some seats burn and some dont I use a led additive but not all the time btw.PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Analogy:
Engines of the swept era were designed to run on "0ld" leaded gas. Using "new" unleaded gas eats up the valve seats and destroys them.
DOT 5 works real well too.Hobcobble wrote:I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch masterbuilder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
cylinders. They'll give you a much longer period of trouble free service. A
guy by the name of John Geidl sells them. There may even be a stainless
lined clutch slave cylinder too?....
John
Is DOT 5 Compatible with DOT 3? In other words... do you have to "flush" out the DOT 3 before using DOT 5? OR can you just empty out the master cyl and slave cyl as best as you can and then add it?swptln wrote:
DOT 5 works real well too.
NOT COMPATIBLE!Jims68 wrote:Is DOT 5 Compatible with DOT 3? In other words... do you have to "flush" out the DOT 3 before using DOT 5? OR can you just empty out the master cyl and slave cyl as best as you can and then add it?swptln wrote:
DOT 5 works real well too.
Thanks! I will leave well enough alone then! Why fix it if it aint broke?PwrWgnDrvr wrote:NOT COMPATIBLE!Jims68 wrote:Is DOT 5 Compatible with DOT 3? In other words... do you have to "flush" out the DOT 3 before using DOT 5? OR can you just empty out the master cyl and slave cyl as best as you can and then add it?swptln wrote:
DOT 5 works real well too.
Jim, the clutch system is pretty easy to flush. Disconnect the line at the master, open the bleeder on the slave and it will drain right out, pump the master into a can or container and then hook everything back up. Then add your DOT 5 and bleed it out till all the fluid coming out is purple and no air, and your done.jims68 wrote:Thanks! I will leave well enough alone then! Why fix it if it aint broke?
Hobcobble wrote:I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch masterbuilder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
cylinders. They'll give you a much longer period of trouble free service. A
guy by the name of John Geidl sells them. There may even be a stainless
lined clutch slave cylinder too?....
John
They are not compatible, DOT 3 has a lower boiling point than DOT 4. Both 3 & 4 will absorb moisture which dramatically lowers both 3 & 4's point of boiling.builder wrote:did I ever tell you guys that these trucks are so ugly they are beautiful. BTW dot 4 is compatible with 3
nope because I already orderd the parts and they are stock till i figure out the way this is going.Hobcobble wrote:I'd suggest looking at buying the stainless steel lined brake & clutch masterbuilder wrote:but I understand what you guys are saying old oils for the old motor trans and diff, in the process of rebuilding all the brakes and the hydro clutch and slave cyclinder any one got extra parts, drums and shoes are good btw.
cylinders. They'll give you a much longer period of trouble free service. A
guy by the name of John Geidl sells them. There may even be a stainless
lined clutch slave cylinder too?....
John