67 d100 fargo drivability

[builder]

1967 fargo d100 drivability and short comings, or in other words what am I going to want to replace or upgrade on this truck. I guees it could be a loaded question but lets say I never drove this truck and I dont know how it will handle, or stop , or steer, or comfort ? all I know is it is a mopar and the first truck I have ever owned that is a mopar .

[66patrick]

If you are used to a modern, plush ride, this does NOT have that in any way. Two straight axles and four leaf springs make for a lumberwagon-like ride, just like an 1880s Conestoga. Four-wheel drum brakes stop the truck adequately, you just need to remember you can't stop on a dime like a modern four-wheel-disc brake equipped modern truck does. No power steering just allows you to have more feel of the road. And pumps up those arm muscles, as an added bonus. I think the stock seats are comfortable in these trucks. These trucks are noisy. No soundproofing or insulation, other than the padding under a stock rubber full floor mat.

If you are not used to old trucks of ANY make, these will get your attention. If you are a "distracted driver"; i.e. you like to text, chat, or otherwise do $#!t behind the wheel other than actual driving, this is not your truck. This harkens from the day where driving actually required the driver's full attention. No cupholders, SAT/NAV, self-parking, self-stopping, leather-clad cocoons where the person sitting behind the wheel (I can't call them "drivers" in this setting!) simply aims the vehicle in the general direction of desired travel.

Like anything, driving these trucks requires practice for the inexperienced driver. Then you'll have an idea about what your truck is capable of, and feel better about getting out on the street and enjoying your Fargo! They are fun trucks to own and drive. You will get attention in them.

[Hobcobble]

in other words what am I going to want to replace or upgrade on this truck.

Assuming you do not know the history of this truck.... and haven't done any work on it.....

***INVEST IN A FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL [FSM]***
They're available used on Ebay, at times, from the Parts Wanted section
of this site or from on line sources [reproduction manual hard copies or CDs]
such as:
http://www.autobooksbishko.com

a)Have steering box rebuilt
b)Replace front axle king pins
c)Replace drag link
d)Replace tie rod ends
e)Replace brake master cylinder and all rubber brake hoses
f)Replace all brake wheel cylinders and inspect/replace steel lines
g)Replace all brake shoes
h)Make sure brake drums are in good shape... resurface if
necessary or replace ones that can not be resurfaced
i)Inspect radiator and re-core [or replace] if necessary.
j)Inspect heater core and replace if necessary.
k)Evaluate all rad and heater hoses and replace if necessary
l)Replace distributor points/condenser OR upgrade to electronic ignition
m)Make sure tires are in good condition
n)Make sure all electricals are operating as they should [signals, lights, etc.]
o)Replace all fluids.... [anti-freeze, engine oil, axle fear lube]
p)Grease all fittings [drive line, steering, etc.]
q)Make sure wipers and heat/defrost are working well

This should get you started... Your truck is about 49 years old.
Your driving experience will be as Patrick described above. I'm sure
other members who drive their trucks regularly can add to my list....
John

[Txas2step]

They are really fun to drive, But expect this the first time you are on a freeway.

[builder]

Having a 66 Plymouth for 25 years I know all that needs to be done to keep them driving at least as new. the list is just something that will require attention for the age of the truck , my friend , whom i just helped rebuild his brake system on his 2004 dodge cummins dully, call my truck a cancer bucket but the fact is it is unmolested so no 2 years of undoing previous owners fix its. and that's money right there as for rust well thats what the tig and mig are for. i figured it would drive like an old truck and i will keep it reasonably stock maybe mod the suspension over time. mechanical will be first, rust second and mods lastly. I already have a shiny car the truck can just be that , a truck.

thanks for the info will be looking forward to getting it and working on it.

[WD]

Pump the steering box full of white lithium marine grease. I've had the same grease in my steering box for 5 or more years with no losses. And it steers smoother than it ever did with oil in the box.

If you run an automatic, replace one quart of the Dex3 with Type F. Drove my 69 D100 318/727 across country towing a loaded horse trailer, truck bed so full the bumper would drag on a cigarette butt. NO kickdown linkage, and the transmission was flawless the entire trip. No late shifts, no missed shifts, no slipping, and the transmission never overheated. I do run the in radiator cooler and a 20000# add on cooler in front of the radiator.

Manual transmission and rear end use GL-1 or GL-4 oils only. GL-5 is missing something in the additive pack required for older units.

DO NOT, under any circumstances, use Chinese made brake drums. My brand new fronts are ready for the scrap pile with under 5K miles on them. Very thin castings, they warped AND cracked. And, as usual, NAPA will not stand behind the parts. Right now they are refusing to honor a lifetime warranty starter that crapped out.

DO NOT, under any circumstance, use China or India sourced fender mounted starter relays. Pure junk. Spend the extra for USA made or convert to a Ford unit.

Autozone and similar rebuilt carburetor and distributor are junk, have gone through 3 carbs and 7 distributors in 11 years. If your rebuilt carburetor came from a shop in Arkansas, hand it back to the parts guy and tell him to try again. They tend to be cracked around the screw holes and base mounting holes. Or the base is warped.

Use only Rotella or similar heavy truck spec oil. Your engine needs much more zinc and phosphorus in the oil than a modern engine does. My truck does just fine with 15W40 year round, both in western WA up in the mountains and in the soggy jungle of extreme SW TN.

If your truck has a dual chamber master cylinder, use one with a bolted on lid. The bail lid style get sloppy after a few bead blastings and rebuildings. If you have a fruit jar single chamber master cylinder, convert to a newer bolt on lid dual chamber and make new hard lines to suit.

Remember, Dodge stands for "drips oil, drops grease everywhere", and the trucks can get pretty gooey. Using only USA made seals and gaskets will stop most of the issue. DO NOT accept cheap gaskets, you'll lose any initial savings to the leaks.

Once a month, hose down the spring packs with a good penetrating oil. Really soak them, cuts down on the squeaks and smooths the ride. My horse trailer sat from 91-11,spring packs rusted up, fed each spring pack a can of PB Blaster and they are smooth, quiet and corrosion free.

Keep the cowl pocket clean. Pop off the top covers and prepare to get dirty. The cowl can hold up to 35 gallons of rotting leaves, pine needles and water. I pulled the rubber plugs out of the firewall clean out ports and threw them away, I'd prefer whatever gets in there drains out on its own.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Keep the cowl pocket clean. Pop off the top covers and prepare to get dirty. The cowl can hold up to 35 gallons of rotting leaves, pine needles and water. I pulled the rubber plugs out of the firewall clean out ports and threw them away, I'd prefer whatever gets in there drains out on its own.

Fine mesh screen under the cowl cover keeps the crap out.

[builder]

Wow thanks guys that is about all the questions, i could and would have thought of.

[Coldsteel]

This is a SOLID thread and should be saved for first time buyers.

[WD]

Keep the cowl pocket clean. Pop off the top covers and prepare to get dirty. The cowl can hold up to 35 gallons of rotting leaves, pine needles and water. I pulled the rubber plugs out of the firewall clean out ports and threw them away, I'd prefer whatever gets in there drains out on its own.

Fine mesh screen under the cowl cover keeps the crap out.

Does not stop water. Pull the clean out covers and give them to a restoration enthusiast or throw them away. The cowl WILL rust away if it is holding water.

Comment directed to new owners.