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I just tore down one of my 440's, on the piston it has a D, what is that for?

I think it's just a reference mark so that the pistons are put in the block correctly. There would be instructions stating to put the letter towards the front of the block, in other words. .010, .020, .030, etc. would indicate amount of overbore.

The pistons have two notches that go toward the front of the engine, the D is at the back of the piston.

Take the piston to your local speed shop or engine rebuilder and ask them. Maybe even a parts store with paper manuals and old guys behind the counter.

Good idea, I'll call O'Riley, Thanks.

TedWitt wrote:Good idea, I'll call O'Riley, Thanks.

Do any old people work for O'Rielly's
John

My guy Michael here in Magnolia, Tx. is a pretty good old school mechanic.

Another question, when I put this 440 back together, I want to put in a lite cam, like an RV cam for instance, I know nothing about duration and all that stuff. I just want it to thump a little, I may put in a lite stall converter. I really don't want to have to put a curve kit in the distributer.

Cam manufacturers have tech lines that can be of great help IF you get a good knowledgeable tech guy. I have a Comp in mine and don't think I could find one that would do better in a 4x4 scenario but that may not be what you are looking for as it idles pretty stock like. Puts out way better power than a stock cammed 440 though but the engine has also been purpose built for my intended use.

If you don't properly curve your distributor I guarantee you are leaving something on the table. That includes not just horsepower and torque but engine longevity, fuel mileage and general all around "engine happiness." It can be pretty time consuming (DAMHIK) but is well worth it in the end. I had mine set up a certain way but am in the process of doing things a bit different. Not finished yet but running even better and will wait for spring to get it done. Pick up the latest Mopar Action and read Ebergs how to article, do it and you will end up being very happy in the long run. So will your engine.

After the rebuild i would get a mopar performance electronic distributor with the orange box.As far as cam i would go with mopar parts
http://www.jegs.com/i/Mopar-Performance ... tId=746961
I used the ignition and a purple cam in my 383 i also got there heavy duty rocker arms springs and retainers for my heads.I went with the 280 duration cam which has a big lope at idle.I also have 915 heads so i got high compression.I would use the 906 heads
http://www.cowtownmopars.com/CastingNumbers.html
Im using a older dp4b intake and a 3310 holley with hooker headers my engine is bored .040 over.I have an automatic going tru 355 gears my truck runs hard.I have a sure grip if you spin the tires on take off an open up the 4 barrels watch out as its going sideways to keep my rear end from wrapping the springs i went with the camper special springs on the rear.I also installed a rear sway bar.It rides stiff but i can haul anything i need to, plus if theres a heavy tongue weight on the trailer is no issue.My truck is a D100 2 wheel drive

Check out a brand called Thumper Cams. They're geared toward the street rod guys who aren't likely racing,but want that heavy lope for the cruise scene. Or at least that's the impression I got.

Thanks

Summot has them. Made by Competition Cams, and are actually spelled "THUMPR"

If you hot tank the block you'll more than likely see painted on lettering along the sides of the block, A B C or D, can be all or some of these letters. They were painted on the block at the factory to let the assembly people know which piston to use in each bore. They reference the finished bore size. Dave

I do plan to boil the block, it has a lot of rust in the water jacket. I will check it before boiling it. Thanks