Heater Fun

[mtolivecracker]

So decided it was time to tackle one of the most unimportant projects, since I got slightly overwhelmed with the quick racking up of major projects.

The heater was disconnected when i got it and the core was leaking. Although I almost lost an eye popping off one of the small clips that holds a cable, the disassembly of the heater was quite simple since the radiator hoses were already disconnected for me.

The whole thing was in rough shape, but completely workable.



I cleaned, sanded and straightened what i could and painted all the components of the old box.



I had a tough time finding a new heater control valve today, in fact, i couldnt find one this long AT ALL. There are some out there that are similar but much shorter piping, meaning i will have to hook up a rubber hose inside the box and not have solid copper/aluminum tube going through the fire wall. Is that ok?

In the meantime, I tried to do what I could with the old one.


Came out ok, but i tested the valve and when closed, it still leaks some water through. Is that ok?


I also have to test to see if this blower motor works

[mtolivecracker]

the only ones i could find are :


advance auto one, cheap ford truck one, plastic, which was recommended here somewhere.


and this NOS which will prob cost me an arm and a leg and is also very short.

[mtolivecracker]

i did find this:

where someone used the short one and put a new hole in to route the cable....interesting.
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=19644&p=137815&hili ... ve#p137815

[wally426ci]

you can use that one copper flared piece. Post a wanted for another one possibly. You won't want rubber through the firewall because it will rub and wear through with the sheet metal. I bought the short plastic one but havent used it yet. Water leaking past the valve is ok as long as it doesnt leak out anywhere. It just means that you'll have fluid in the core at all times. You can get cores too. I think Butch Romig sells them maybe? Can't remember.

You did the right thing asking. I am sure someone can help.

[Hobcobble]

Do you know if the heater core is good?
John

[mtolivecracker]

Core wasnt good. tested it. Bought one off amazon for 40 bucks, free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8 ... 00_details

The copper piece cleaned up well, so i might use it.

I think i will go with the short plastic one, just like the idea of plastic as opposed to metal.

So im thinking if i drill the firewall holes wider, and put a nice larger grommet around the rubber tube, it might be ok. what you think?

[Hobcobble]

Core wasnt good. tested it. Bought one off amazon for 40 bucks, free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8 ... 00_details

The copper piece cleaned up well, so i might use it.

I think i will go with the short plastic one, just like the idea of plastic as opposed to metal.

So im thinking if i drill the firewall holes wider, and put a nice larger grommet around the rubber tube, it might be ok. what you think?

If the tube portion of the old valve assembly is solid, you can cut it off
and use it along with that copper tube. You're basically jumping to the
tubes with a short piece of 5/8" hose. This way, you could still use some
stock firewall grommets. I used a plastic valve like the one you showed.
I bought mine from NAPA. I did two type 86 heaters this way.
John

[jayabbas]

Core wasnt good. tested it. Bought one off amazon for 40 bucks, free shipping.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C8 ... 00_details

The copper piece cleaned up well, so i might use it.

I think i will go with the short plastic one, just like the idea of plastic as opposed to metal.

So im thinking if i drill the firewall holes wider, and put a nice larger grommet around the rubber tube, it might be ok. what you think?

If the tube portion of the old valve assembly is solid, you can cut it off
and use it along with that copper tube. You're basically jumping to the
tubes with a short piece of 5/8" hose. This way, you could still use some
stock firewall grommets. I used a plastic valve like the one you showed.
I bought mine from NAPA. I did two type 86 heaters this way.
John

Which valve did you use? I'm looking at the 74627 and 74628 four season valve and can't determine the valve opening direction from their website.

[mtolivecracker]

which valve did you use? I'm looking at the 74627 and 74628 four season valve and can't determine the valve opening direction from their website.

I dont know if it matters. The clip is what holds on the cable, so as long as the cable is coming into the clip correctly, itll work. it seems like it can flipped around, either way. at least thats my assumption

[mtolivecracker]

this is an excellent diagram of the box that helped me out a bit. someone posted this at some point.

[Hobcobble]

Which valve did you use? I'm looking at the 74627 and 74628 four season valve and can't determine the valve opening direction from their website.

It has been a while since I replaced them so I'm not sure if I would
have a receipt to get a part number from.
John

[mtolivecracker]

I should be gettin valve by the weekend, Advancaauto had to order it.

in the meantime, im thinking of routing my radiator to heater hoses differently.
The other day i was looking at for AC brackets/compressors for the LA318(which im assuming i have by the valve cover bolts), and it appears that they mount right smack in the middle front of the block, so i might have to re-route these hoses anyway.

Anyone know from experience the best thing to do with these hoses?


i was thinking maybe under the Alternator?

[wally426ci]

Mopars always ran up the inner fender and jumped across behind the alt.

I personally wouldnt go too crazy. You can get a newer 70's bracket that holds them up in the air a little...... I dont have a pic on here

[mtolivecracker]

Got the valve, turns the same direction as stock, just shorter tubing.

[wally426ci]

Tell us where you found the metal one!

[Hobcobble]

Tell us where you found the metal one!

I'll bet you he found that one when he opened up his heater box....
John

[wally426ci]

I thought he bought 2 for some reason..... Silly me.

[chilort]

If you cut new copper and need to put the bead in it, try out an EZ Beader (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-010ERL/). I used one when I redid my heater. It worked very well.

[LC]

LC from PA orginal hoses were routed up past alt thru spaceat front of valve cover with a braket that held the hose on top valve cover then crossed over to inner fender with another braket about a foot from the fire wall the tubes come out apr. 3" sort of looks like a Z shape with the bottom at the pump the bar along valve cover top bar cross over to fender and firewall

[69W200]

Under the best circumstances, do Sweptline heaters/blowers/defrosts work well?

On my 69, air warms quickly w/ engine, blower motor moves little air, defroster sucks. I see the heater core case is easy to get to...plugged w/ debris? I guess I dont have anything to compare.