Installing stainless drip rail/rain gutter trim ?
Installing stainless drip rail/rain gutter trim ?
Hi, can anyone help me ? I'm restoring a 66 D100. I purchased a 63 custom cab for parts. I removed the the stainless drip rails and can not get them back on to my truck. Has anyone done this before that can help me ? I'm beginning to think that they were orignaly installed at the factory and crimped on at that time and can not be re-installed ?
- WD
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 1741
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: Rosemark
- State: TN
- Location: Lancaster Plantation
The one on my 69 pops right off, and right back on, if you take all the retaining screws out...
Make sure the piece isn't bent on the underside, would make it tricky to get back on. Double check that the cab mounting area is the same from trim donor to other cab. There may be some size differnces from pre-65 1/2 to post-65 1/2.
Good luck, it'll be something simple.
-WD
Make sure the piece isn't bent on the underside, would make it tricky to get back on. Double check that the cab mounting area is the same from trim donor to other cab. There may be some size differnces from pre-65 1/2 to post-65 1/2.
Good luck, it'll be something simple.
-WD
If I didn't build it, it ain't mine.
1949 Dodge B1B-108; 1969 D100-128; 72 Super Beetle; and a bunch of others...
1949 Dodge B1B-108; 1969 D100-128; 72 Super Beetle; and a bunch of others...
- wideblock
- Founding Member
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
- Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico
- Contact:
theres no size difference, it will pop right on. but, it will only do this after you modify your 66 to accept the trim. look at the donor truck, at the joints of the drip rail there are none of the metal patch pieces tack welded to it because it came with the trim on it. your non trimmed truck will have these small tabs of steel tac welded to the joints of the drip rail. these have to be removed before the trim will go on. after that, you just hook the top on, and rotate down to get it popped back on. but, your gonna have pure hell getting the front screws in with the windshield in place. this job is easiest done with the windshield removed.
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
- Jeffc
- Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
- Posts: 1954
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- Location: Vancouver, WA
- Contact:
Trey has it down, it's the only way that they will
go on easy, just takes some prep work to make them
go on easy.....
go on easy, just takes some prep work to make them
go on easy.....
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!
- wideblock
- Founding Member
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
- Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico
- Contact:
thanks for the back up jeff. just passing on what i learned over the years of being a swept owner. when i was trying to put the drip rail on my 66, there was some old bearded guy in washington that pointed me in the right direction.
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
Thank you to every one that answered.
The doner truck is a 63, mine is a 66 but , yes the body lines are the same. I did remove the the tack welded pieces and ground down the old welds. Wind sheild has also been removed. It just seems like I'm having to force them to hard and I don't want to bend or kink them. What do you guys think of pop-riveting the on instead if screws ?
- wideblock
- Founding Member
- Posts: 5617
- Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
- City: las cruces nm
- State: NM
- Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico
- Contact:
either will work for attaching the trim. but pop rivets do loosen with wear, and are a bear to remove later. mine wasnt easy to put on. i hooked the top lip, then worked it around in a rolling motion till she snapped all the way down. you might check the top lip to insure no part of it has been bent slightly, this will cause it to not seat all the way over the drip rail and can make your life hell.
Trey
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
1965 CSS Utiline.
ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100
"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"
I had them on my 70, then I rolled it and had to put them on the new cab, they were riveted before and the are riveted now, I took a set off of a donor truck recently and they were screwed on, just havent gotten around to painting my 71, so I have yet to install it. It kind of helps to twist it some when installing them, esp the ones that curve down to the top of the door, they are pretty tough and will take some twisting, as I rolled my truck and they were all saveable.