Beginning Restoration.... Advice!

Elliot · Post by **Elliot** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 4:39 pm

Finally saved up a few $ to begin work on the '65 D 100. However, live in the city so most of the work will have to be subbed out. I am wondering if these are good prices?. I have found and been told that this is an honest body shop. Here goes:

2 floor pans and 1 rocker arm removed, reinstalled and primed: $1,000.

Engine compartment cleaned, rust removed and primed then painted: $1,000.

Engine rebuild: (longblock) 1 year and/or 12k mile warrantee $1,000 or $1,200 for 3 year and/or 30k mile warrantee (different shops).

Bed removed, undercarriage, rust removed and painted: $1,500.

Any dents and/or rust removed on entire body (outside) primed and painted: $5,500.

I have no idea what I should do regarding the chassis... springs, joints, etc.

I'd also like to have the drums changed over to disc, but have no idea how or how much.

My hope was to get the floor pans, rocker arm and engine rebuild this summer.

She only has 139,000 miles on her and runs fine, but seems to leak a bit of oil and am not sure on reliability. I inherited her a little over a year ago. This was the truck the folks purchased almost new and we used to take on trips when I was a kid.

I'm up here in Tacoma, Wa. Can anyone suggest a strategy or order to do things and perhaps tell me if these prices are in line? I have seen some of the cars the shop has done and they are very nice, hot rods, etc.

Also, I know many of you have talked about having the bodies dipped. The shop does not do that and they said it is cost prohibitive. They use solvents and sanders.

I wish I had the ability to do this stuff my self but don't.

Another reason I want to get the ole Dodge looking good: Last week I was on vacation. When I got home the city had flagged the truck to be impounded if I did not move it. I had it covered to keep the rain off of it. One of my neighbors turned it in.

I just sent in a public records request to the city... should be finding out which neighbor turned me in, in a couple of days. I will then be paying that neighbor a little visit!!

Sorry to ramble. Thanks for any advice you all can give.

Elliot

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 5:02 pm

most of your prices sound about equal to quotes i was getting here in NM. but the engine compartment clean up sounds steep. i had about $40 in materials and did mine in the driveway of the apartments myself. not knowing the over all condition of your truck, its hard to say if most of the prices are fair or a bit high. but, i will say, you will get a good price break from most shops if you do it all at once versus small sections at a time. id start with the drive train, get her running good, and licenced so the city cant give you ant grief. then go from there on the body work. if you cant do the work yourself, ask around at the local speed shops and car club gatherings, find a mechanic everyone else trusts for the motor and chassis work. he may not be the cheapest, but id use a recommended mechanic over a cheaper one.

meangreen · Post by **meangreen** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 8:42 pm

my

is dont hold anything back

RussRoth · Post by **RussRoth** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 9:06 pm

Here is an idea of what some guys spend. My cousin in Dundee, OR owns and operates a specialty body shop wth another guy. Their specialty is '55-'57 T-birds. It is not at all uncommon for them to do a complete restoration job on one that costs $15,-20,000.

Yes, that is in thousands.

These are concours quality restorations though and they are SHARP.

Obviously they have to make their living with regular body work but I have seen as many as 3 Birds in pieces at one time. In light of that your quotes don't look to bad.

I have about $15,000 in mine and I did almost all the work myself. I did a lot of modifications and bought another really nice rig for body parts. Leaving it completely stock I could have done it for about half that.

cudajimmy · Post by **cudajimmy** » Sun Mar 06, 2005 9:16 pm

Higher than what I would pay around here, but if it sounds like a good deal to you, and you want it done in a timely manner, go for it.

Word of advice.....

Drop by and check on the body work/rust removal OFTEN. Most body men I've run accross will charge you to do it right, but just patch and bondo it.

WD · Post by WD » Sun Mar 06, 2005 10:51 pm

Call me, NOW!

I'm in Puyallup, know alot of the resto shops in the area. Will help you make sure you aren't getting bent over.
-WD
210-7071

Elliot. · Post by **Elliot.** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 11:17 am

Thanks for the info.

WD I'm in meetings for the next 3 days. I'll give you a call later in the week. Perhaps you can direct me to a few body shops.

I think I'll go with the shop I have for floor pans and rocker arm, then start getting more quotes for the other work.

I sure wish I could do this stuff myself.

If anyone has anything to add please let me know.

Thank you all.

Elliot

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 5:37 pm

I am not sure of your capabilities, but if you can't weld, then it is probably best to send that type of work out for repair. A 110 volt MIG welder can be bought for less than $200 at Sears. You may want to consider that. If you can weld and have a welder, go to:

http://www.dodgesweptline.org/

click on REPAIR TIPS, Then click on BODYWORK. This is the floor repair section I gave to Norm ages ago. This can also be found on my Sweptline Restoration CD. Although you may not be able to do everything I did on this CD, it may give you an idea why body shops charge so much. Have a look and email me with any questions you may have. Also, click on my WWW link at the bottom of this post. Good luck and keep us all informed at what you decide. As for charges for body work, you can find prices all over the board. If a shop is slow, you may get a better price than the guy that doesn't really want to do the job, he will always be extra HIGH. You don't always need to go to a "restoration" shop to get good work done too. (just another thought)

Jim

John Duncan · Post by **John Duncan** » Mon Mar 07, 2005 8:34 pm

Question for Jims68 Got your restoration CD this weekend. Great Job. My 1967 D200 was in much better shape than yours. Need replacement rubber floor mat and new "cat whiskers" for doors. Can not find a source for these items. Any suggestions?

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Tue Mar 08, 2005 7:10 am

I realize that I put alot of info on the CD, and sometimes it is a bit hidden, but I do have a "store list" on the CD. It is in folder #05 Dodge Truck Notes and you will see a "PARST STORE LIST.TXT" and in that you will see where I bought my "catwhiskers" door rubber, floor mat, etc. BUT, if you can't find it, here it is here:

MILL SUPPLY: http://www.millsupply.com/ 1-800-888-5072

Reproduction floor mat (80-61-101) ( Although not original pattern, good fit, very nice looking)
Floor mat jute (M-1631)

RESTORATION SPECIALTIES & SUPPLY INC. http://www.restorationspecialties.com/
1-814-467-9842 OR 1-814-467-9282

Windshield seals (Front and Rear) (Great fit)
Door seals (Both sides) (Great fit)

The door and windshield rubber were great quality and fit. I don't have a part number for these things, as I bought them as a "total" kit. This
company also has an online catalog that you can download.

I hope this helps, let me know if you have more questions.

Jim

Sweptline.ORG

Beginning Restoration.... Advice!

Beginning Restoration.... Advice!

Advice... Thanks.

Rubber floor mat and "cat whiskers" for doors