Tailgate questions

[chilort]

I just snagged a tailgate from a '64 Sweptline for my '68. But then I read somewhere on here they that '64 and '68 are different. I guess I could go outside and look for myself, but right off, I don't see anything.

Also, the 2 screws on each side that hold the hinge in place, how do you get those out? At they junk yard I tried PB Blaster, a suggestive tap to break things free, much cursing, and then eventually drilled them out. If I do change tailgates on my '68 (one of the places where the metal straps attach to the tailgate is ripped out on mine), I really would like to get the hinges out the correct way.

[chilort]

I just walked my lazy rear outside and I cannot see any difference between the tailgate I picked up today and the one I pulled of the truck in the junk yard. There truck in the yard must be mislabeled.

[powerwagoncrazy]

The only way I've found to get those screws out is to pull out your tail and reverse lights out and heat the threads with a torch, unscrewing them whilst they're still glowing- then clean up the threads with a tap and use new screws with plenty of anti-seize compound on 'em. The down side is you may toast some paint off around the tailgate hinges, but if you're like me you've already located some rattle cans of paint that are damn near an exact match for your factory color... (Krylon True Teal Gloss= Desert Turquoise, unfortunately they discontinued that color )...

[Jeffc]

the utiline beds are all the same, real late ones don't have letters stamped in them
but otherwise the same,

However- the full size beds are very differant 64 to late 65.
The late bed with the D shaped taillights will be wider and have a pull handle in the
center, were as the early bed with round lights will have chains to hold the
gate closed.

The 3 types will not bolt in swap into place of each other ....

Might be that the yard got he year right, but the bed has been swapped,
or who knows......

[chilort]

They probably got the year wrong. I once saw a LeBaron marked as a Tempo..... But somehow they had it in the right place in the yard.

This sounds like it might end up being some real fun. Luckily, we've already decided to repaint the truck. I don't like the current color, my fiancee does, but it is flaking off and isn't even near to an original color, so it doesn't really matter. I think we're going to try the roller paint job detailed over on Moparts.com.

[soopernaut]

Luckily, we've already decided to repaint the truck. I don't like the current color, my fiancee does, but it is flaking off and isn't even near to an original color, so it doesn't really matter. I think we're going to try the roller paint job detailed over on Moparts.com.

If your truck is that Blue 68 D100, it looks like the factory color of Marlin Blue. That is my favorite factory Sweptline color.

[chilort]

Here is mine:


That's the good side. The other side looks like something like a tire skipped down the side of it. There's a few small rust holes, and some rot in the pass side step for the door. It is pretty solid. I put in a roll in bed liner a few months ago. The paint that's on there now has a lot of metallic in it. There's a bunch of over spray on things like the antenna and interior light. The paint chips off easily and you can see the original baby blue color under neath. I think we're going to go with Rust-o-leum Royal Blue.

[Hobcobble]

Nice looking truck. What's your dog's name?
John

[soopernaut]

From the pictures I saw before I thought it was a darker blue. From that picture i can now see that it isn't a 68 factory color. The 69-71 trucks had a color that was similar to that though.

[chilort]

His name is Angus. He's part lab, but all good dog. And he loves rides in the Sweptline.

[chilort]

So where do you get those large philips head screws in that size and the funky crowned lock ring? I've got a place local that carries some oddball stuff, but this might be beyond even their inventory.

[powerwagoncrazy]

I bought some basic zinc-plated grade 5 flat head screws at the hardware store, but I never really did any searching for the correct phillips head style...

[Hobcobble]

So where do you get those large philips head screws in that size and the funky crowned lock ring? I've got a place local that carries some oddball stuff, but this might be beyond even their inventory.

Look for Terry [aka PwrWgnDrvr] .... I believe he knows the exact screw you're looking
for. He posts here every once in a while but is more active over on Norm's site.
John

[chilort]

Thanks for the info. The lock washers are the most interesting part to me. Where they flat then crushed?

[FRANK]

I believe those screws take a #4 Phillips driver. They are also available in Allen Head. Almost anything works better than Phillips when trying to remove them. I am sure that is why Torx took over in the auto industry.

[cbody70]

Went through the same thing on mine. Had to drill out one side and left the other side in place but still able to remove tailgate. Replaced screw with allen key type.

[wittyhoosier]

[chilort] those washers are made that way. Check this out: http://www.shakeproof.com/products/wash ... _lock.html

[mopardwh]

Nice truck, cool dog!

Yeah, the pre 65 1/2 tailgates are more narrow.

[JimE]

Your local hardware store can fix you up, I just went to the allen head screws. Jim

[chilort]

Wow, you learn something new every day. Those washers are interesting.

I haven't tried to take my current tail gate off yet. I've got a small oxy / mapp setup, so I can do heat. I've also though about welding a nut to the head of the bolt and giving that a go since I could get more leverage with that. But that means I have to borrow my friends welder.

I was able to get the tail gate off of the truck in the yard by drilling out the bolts out of one hinge. After one side was free, it came right out.