1967 D100 Door Window Weatherstrip and Seals

[67D100Pickup]

I'm ready to fix the rattling in my door windows.

It looks like there are four different parts/styles, one piece around the top and rear, one at the inside bottom, one at the outside bottom, and one for the front in the vent window.

Does anyone have tips on the best vendor for all of these?

-- Jeff

[nutz]

make sure you post what you find its on my list
there are other posts on it but so many choices

[BigBlockTrucks]

Check with a company named rubber the right way.
I bought a windshield seal for my 60 dodge truck from them. I’m happy with it.

[67D100Pickup]

make sure you post what you find its on my list
there are other posts on it but so many choices

Forgive me if you've told me before but can you point me to your list?

[67D100Pickup]

Check with a company named rubber the right way.
I bought a windshield seal for my 60 dodge truck from them. I’m happy with it.

I'll check them out now. Thx.

--Jeff

[67D100Pickup]

Check with a company named rubber the right way.
I bought a windshield seal for my 60 dodge truck from them. I’m happy with it.

Wow. They have great service. They're sending me a kit now, driver and passenger side $125 delivered.

Thank you!

--Jeff

[nutz]

nice post how it fits

[67D100Pickup]

nice post how it fits

Ok. I installed the first two pieces called belt line seals. These are the strips on the bottom of the window inside the slot in the door.

The window rolled up fine but the pieces were so flimsy they folded inward and peeled off the mounts when the window went back down.

I ripped them off and will return them.

Still looking for decent quality window weather strips.

-- Jeff

[nutz]

well that sux.....
i was reading how some fit better then others
guess need cross them off my shopping list

[Wildergarten]

i was reading how some fit better then others

I have not used them, but Steele Rubber Products has a huge selection, including many more-esoteric parts: https://www.steelerubber.com/

[nutz]

i know if steel doesn't have them they will make it for you

[martincom]

I purchased nearly all my rubber as a master kit from Restoration Specialties. It was a mix of different manufacturers that made up the kit: Steele, Precision, etc. As to the pieces along the bottom of the glass, there are are two types. The catwhisker type that has a felt like material bonded to a stainless backing which, in turn, has clips on the backside to hook into slots in the door skin. The other type is a rubber flap material that also has clips on the backside to engage the slots in the door skin. I'm going to speculate this is the type you received. The rubber, by itself, is not rigid enough and the friction between it and the glass will cause it to drag up/down with the glass, possibly pulling it out of the clips or the clips from the slots in the door skin. The catwhisker type will not have this issue, due to the stainless backing.

None the less, I went with the rubber type to minimize how much water/sediment, foreign material was washed into the door. To prevent the issues you had, I glued them to the door skin, in addition to the clips, with 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. This adhesive keeps the rubber in place. Its been three years with no issues.

A tip for installing, lower the glass to expose the slots in the door skin. To do this, remove all but one of the regulator attaching bolts and loosen the third. This will allow the glass to drop lower. Be careful, however, to not let the regulator arm rollers come out out of the track at the bottom of the door glass, allowing the door glass to fall into the bottom of the door. Tape off the top of the doors to protect the finish from excess adhesive and to provide a straight edge to guide placement of the rubber, for a near appearance.

Also, to really quiet your doors and give them a "solid" feel when closing, apply Hushmat or similar product to the inside of the outer door skin. It makes a big difference. It does require pulling all the glass and vent wing assembly to do so, however. I had pulled all my glass as part of the restoration.

[67step100]

I also purchased all my window rubber from Restoration Specialties but I did not use the rubber window scraper they provided in their kit. As martincom says, they are not rigid and rather flimsy. I used the felt cat whiskers and they installed quickly and are solid with the steel belt backing. I've never seen rubber used for whiskers. Even my '51 Studebaker pickup had felt whiskers and they work just fine. I believe I got the whiskers from Rock Auto. They are made by Fairchild so they are probably available from other suppliers.

[67D100Pickup]

I purchased nearly all my rubber as a master kit from Restoration Specialties. It was a mix of different manufacturers that made up the kit: Steele, Precision, etc. As to the pieces along the bottom of the glass, there are are two types. The catwhisker type that has a felt like material bonded to a stainless backing which, in turn, has clips on the backside to hook into slots in the door skin. The other type is a rubber flap material that also has clips on the backside to engage the slots in the door skin. I'm going to speculate this is the type you received. The rubber, by itself, is not rigid enough and the friction between it and the glass will cause it to drag up/down with the glass, possibly pulling it out of the clips or the clips from the slots in the door skin. The catwhisker type will not have this issue, due to the stainless backing.

None the less, I went with the rubber type to minimize how much water/sediment, foreign material was washed into the door. To prevent the issues you had, I glued them to the door skin, in addition to the clips, with 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. This adhesive keeps the rubber in place. Its been three years with no issues.

A tip for installing, lower the glass to expose the slots in the door skin. To do this, remove all but one of the regulator attaching bolts and loosen the third. This will allow the glass to drop lower. Be careful, however, to not let the regulator arm rollers come out out of the track at the bottom of the door glass, allowing the door glass to fall into the bottom of the door. Tape off the top of the doors to protect the finish from excess adhesive and to provide a straight edge to guide placement of the rubber, for a near appearance.

Also, to really quiet your doors and give them a "solid" feel when closing, apply Hushmat or similar product to the inside of the outer door skin. It makes a big difference. It does require pulling all the glass and vent wing assembly to do so, however. I had pulled all my glass as part of the restoration.

This is great info! Especially the part about lowering the glass. I have ordered new felt style OEM beltine seals. I'm guessing that will work.

Thanks for the details!

--Jeff

[67D100Pickup]

I also purchased all my window rubber from Restoration Specialties but I did not use the rubber window scraper they provided in their kit. As martincom says, they are not rigid and rather flimsy. I used the felt cat whiskers and they installed quickly and are solid with the steel belt backing. I've never seen rubber used for whiskers. Even my '51 Studebaker pickup had felt whiskers and they work just fine. I believe I got the whiskers from Rock Auto. They are made by Fairchild so they are probably available from other suppliers.

Yeah. I guess you'd have to glue those rubber strips on like martincom did. I have the felts from Fairchild on the way.

-- Jeff

[67D100Pickup]

well that sux.....
i was reading how some fit better then others
guess need cross them off my shopping list

Well. Martincom said he glued them on and had good results. I guess they'd be fine if I had done that but I think I will prefer the steel-backed felt version.

-- Jeff

[nutz]

yeah thanks for the explaining it
i was thinking the whisker type ...but now i know the advantage of the rubber
might do rubber out side and whisker on the inside

[67D100Pickup]

i was reading how some fit better then others

I have not used them, but Steele Rubber Products has a huge selection, including many more-esoteric parts: https://www.steelerubber.com/

The steelerubber site has some good stuff. It looks like their vent division bar weatherstrips are just what I need...

https://www.steelerubber.com/vent-divis ... 70-2135-56

Thanks again!

--Jeff

[67D100Pickup]

I have the steel backed felt strips now but they don’t just push into the slots, they must slip over the steel.

I can’t see how on earth you are supposed to align all of these clips and slide them over the steel inside the slots, presumably all at once

Sample clip on test panel

Any tips on that?

— Jeff

[67D100Pickup]

Replying to self in case it helps anyone…

I dropped the window completely inside the door to get it out of the way. (This tip was inspired by martincom)

Then I got a helper to help hold the steel-backed strip in position while we carefully positioned all of the tabs at their attachment slots using screwdrivers to help hold the strip toward the steel. Then started pushing the strip down over the steel until all were done.

Mission accomplished.

—Jeff