door moldings

[nutz]

ready to rebuild my doors
is there a complete rubber kit
who makes the best kit or parts
thanks ,paul

[67step100]

I bought most of my rubber door parts from Restoration Specialties. There are a number of suppliers.

[martincom]

I also purchased the Restoration Specialties master kit for the entire truck. Some of the items were in Steele Rubber packaging, others in vendors I do not recall, and much of it with no labels on the packaging. No complaints with any of it.

The only thing that stands out in my mind, that some folks may have an issue with, are the catwhiskers. The OEM catwhiskers have a metal backing runner, probably stainless, that has clips every couple of inches that are inserted into corresponding elongated holes along the door glass opening. A cloth like material, the "catwhiskers", is bonded to the stainless runner.

The replacement that is included in the Restoration Specialties kit is not this type. It is a piece of rubber with the clips attached to it--much like the newer vehicles. Simply installing it by only utilizing the clips will likely yield a strip that has dips and sags in it and that will move up and down with the glass. In short, look and function like crap.

None the less, I liked the concept of the rubber verses the cloth like "catwhiskers". The rubber would yield a better seal to the glass, slowing down the amount of water that runs into the door and more significantly, the amount of dirt, leaves, and other debris that eventually plugs up the drain holes in the bottom of the door. Whoever remembers to periodically clean that??? If you're like most of us, that doesn't happen until you're repairing the rust holes in the bottom of the door---because the drain holes were plugged.

So when I installed the rubber type catwhiskers, I also glued them in place with 3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive. Bear in mind that you want to fit them first and tape off a straight line to utilize as an alignment guide and control the glue slop over. You don't have much time to position them once you have applied the glue to both surfaces. I removed all the window regulator attaching bolts but one and loosen that one quite a bit. This allows the glass to drop lower in the door, providing better access to install the catwhiskers and apply glue. Just watch the glass channel rollers so they do not come out of the channel by lowering too far. I utilize "flux brushes" for applying the glue to achieve a thin, even, coat. Hardware stores have them in the plumbing isle. I typically purchase them in bulk from Amazon, Zoro or similar vendors.

I'm happy with the rubber catwhiskers and I've had no issues with them working loose or creating excessive drag on the glass when rolling them up/down.

I don't have any good photos and the truck is still in winter storage. Below is what I have that partially depicts the rubber catwhiskers:

[67step100]

As Martincom mentions, some do not like the cat whiskers from Restoration Specialties and is the one item from RS that I did not use from their kit. I didn't like the rubber and went with the stiffer felt whiskers from Rockauto. They just popped into the holes and the felt is tight against the glass once it is in place.

And as Martincom mentions, make sure your clear the drain holes at the bottom of the door.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

And as Martincom mentions, make sure your clear the drain holes at the bottom of the door.

Even better, enlarge them and/or drill additional. (Insert screwdriver and twist)
And if you have the door apart, fill the 2 lower corners with a urethane sealant/caulk. (Where there is a 1/4" gap between inner and outer skins. It fills instantly with fine crap which holds moisture and rusts them from inside out)

[martincom]

If you're pulling all the glass from the door, which would include the vent wing, may I suggest you add sound deadening to the inside of the door skin. I did this with my D100. I'm not sure how much of a difference it made quieting the cab noise, but wow, it sure made the doors feel "solid" when opening/closing and quiet down the closing noise. It is almost has the opening/closing feel of a new truck!

I utilized the Hushmat brand that I sourced from Summit Racing. I also did the rear cab wall, behind the fuel tank, rear cab corners, floor pans, the firewall, and the inside of the roof panel.

Overall, my truck is much quieter. I purchased the truck in Colorado Springs and drove it back to MN. There was so much wind noise in the cab you couldn't hear yourself think, let alone listen to a radio. While it is not totally void of wind noise, which I attribute to the drip rail and other non-aerodynamic cab design side effects, it is much quieter now. You can hear the radio easily at 70 mph. I couldn't say if it was any one thing that reduced the cab noise. I replaced all the rubber, welded up or plugged the numerous holes in the firewall from previous owners, and added the Hushmat. I do know that the cab is pretty air tight as it takes significantly more effort to close the doors when the windows are rolled up.

[Wildergarten]

I do know that the cab is pretty air tight as it takes significantly more effort to close the doors when the windows are rolled up.

Has anybody here tried installing one of these cab pressure vents?
https://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs ... /image/10/

[Wildergarten]

And if you have the door apart, fill the 2 lower corners with a urethane sealant/caulk. (Where there is a 1/4" gap between inner and outer skins. It fills instantly with fine crap which holds moisture and rusts them from inside out)

Have you tried the urethane foam there? One can shoot that through a tube to get the stuff all the way to the bottom and then back out while filling that skinny gap.

It might have a tiny acousical benefit too. As Martincom suggests, such things are cumulative.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

I wouldn't count on the foam sealing out water. I've dug tons of it out of water soaked/dry rotted structures and the foam was sopping wet.

[Wildergarten]

I wouldn't count on the foam sealing out water. I've dug tons of it out of water soaked/dry rotted structures and the foam was sopping wet.

Thanks, without an experiment, it would be otherwise impossible to know whether it retained a "closed cell" structure as it cured.

[martincom]

I do know that the cab is pretty air tight as it takes significantly more effort to close the doors when the windows are rolled up.

Has anybody here tried installing one of these cab pressure vents?
https://contentinfo.autozone.com/znetcs ... /image/10/

If I was re-locating the fuel tank and if I had it to do over again, I most definitely would.

[Wildergarten]

If I was re-locating the fuel tank and if I had it to do over again, I most definitely would.

I've seen one for a Toyota skinny enough to fit on a door post. Thought I might be able to get one in behind the filler neck.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/264693916364

[nutz]

thanks guys
yes doors are completely apart
will do the sound mat and sealant
going to move the gas tank to rear (instead of buying a cab vent i'll take one out of a car i'm junking )thanks for the idea
off topic but any good sources for body mounts

[martincom]

thanks guys
yes doors are completely apart
will do the sound mat and sealant
going to move the gas tank to rear (instead of buying a cab vent i'll take one out of a car i'm junking )thanks for the idea
off topic but any good sources for body mounts

The rubber isolator cab mounts/core supports are available from easy-------street-----llc. For some reason, the actual link is blocked on the forum. If you need the steel frame mounts, the Thorps specialize in used sweptline partshttps://www.dodgesweptlineparts.com/preview/ You'll probably need to phone them about those.

[Wildergarten]

off topic but any good sources for body mounts

I may have some mounts you can have. PM me with contact info. I'll give the garage a look on the morrow.

[nutz]

sent pm
the box is off and the rear is out getting cleaned and new axle bearings ,spring bushing are done need to find axle u-bolts
the only thing that rotted on the rear (gotta love a texas truck)
just waiting on a couple more warm days to make it a roller then on to the cab

[PwrWgnDrvr]

sent pm
the box is off and the rear is out getting cleaned and new axle bearings ,spring bushing are done need to find axle u-bolts
the only thing that rotted on the rear (gotta love a texas truck)
just waiting on a couple more warm days to make it a roller then on to the cab

FSM specs that U-bolts are not to be re-used and new ones to be installed. Spring shops make them on the spot.

[nutz]

wow been working on cars for 40 years never heard that you don't reuse u-bolts
now i need to find a spring shop
back when i would lift trucks had a good one and they would make u-bolts for me but they are long gone
thanks nutz