65 D100 Driver door hinge repair

[64D100Poly]

Hello, I've decided to finally get to replacing the pins in my driver side hinge, I remember for a while there was a good video on YouTube of someone changing the pins in them, unfortunately the video has since been deleted. Does anybody have a part number for a hinge pin kit that is known to work or can be modified? If anybody has any photos of what there repair looks like that would be very helpful. I'm just trying to gather everything I need so I don't have my door off for a week waiting for parts! It seems everyone has there own way of repairing these things.

-Landon

[irontwist]

675-5143 is the Napa part number. I tried to install them using the You-tube video with no success, pin would not come out. Heating and then using a press might be helpful. The end of the hinge is mortised with drill press before installing pin to accommodate the bushing which was countersunk according to video as i remember, which seems correct.

[64D100Poly]

675-5143 is the Napa part number. I tried to install them using the You-tube video with no success, pin would not come out. Heating and then using a press might be helpful. The end of the hinge is mortised with drill press before installing pin to accommodate the bushing which was countersunk according to video as i remember, which seems correct.

Ive heard about all the fun people have with those frozen pins, I got one of em harbor freight presses and I reckon with a lil bit of heat I can knock ‘em out. Thankyou for the part number that’s the main thing I was looking for.

-LB

[Wildergarten]

I remember for a while there was a good video on YouTube of someone changing the pins in them, unfortunately the video has since been deleted.

The poster of that video is a member of this forum, swptln. He still has a YouTube channel.

[martincom]

Mark DuVerger was the author of the video. I offered some suggestions to improve the rebuild, as comments to the YouTube video. Mark disagreed with most of them, especially the adding of a grease zerk to the hinge arm, to allow for lubrication. He claimed the bushings were "Oilrite" brand and did not require lubrication and implied lubricating them would be harmful. I disagreed and could find nothing in the NAPA specs to indicate they were Oilrite.

Mark took the video down shortly thereafter. I'm not sure if it was because of our disagreement or the fact he is doing the rebuild for a fee, as some form of side business. Mark frequently posts here, so you could do a search for his name to find his user name and PM him. He also hosts another sweptline forum, though I can't remember the name of it.

I've got a couple photos of the hinges after rebuild. It is pretty straight forward. Mark utilized and end mill chucked in a drill press to "mortise" each side of the hinge arm, so the bushing would be flush or near flush. I sourced the end mill from McMaster-Carr, so I was able to check my order history for what I utilized:

Carbide Square End Mill with Two Milling Ends, Uncoated, 4 Flute, 1/2" Mill Diameter, 3" Overall Length PN:8889A25

[martincom]

Here are the photos of the rebuilt hinge:

1. The drill bit utilized to drill the opening for the bushing was a letter size bit. I don't remember the size. Mark had made note of it in his video. As most folks don't have an index of letter size bits, you'll need to measure the bushing and order the bit, as well.

2. Don't seat the serrated portion of the pin into the bushing. You'll split the bushing.

3. I cut the pins to length before installing. They are very hard and would be difficult to cut with a hacksaw. I utilized a cut-off wheel in a die grinder. I tapered the cut-off end with a bench grinder.

4. While not depicted in the photo, I ordered some spring nuts (M6, I believe) to push on over the tapered end of the pin. This was to prevent it from working out.

5. With the shoulder of the bushings,the hinge body needs to be spread a bit to allow insertion of the arm. Mark utilized a simple bolt, nut, flat washer combination just shorter than the hinge body opening. Using that combination to spread the hinge body so the arm could be inserted.

6. I sandblasted the hinge components and primed before assembling.

7. I utilized a press, rather than a hammer/punch to assemble. I don't like hammering anything---especially bushings. Also, I was able to avoid scratching or chipping the primer.

8. As this was part of full re-paint of the truck, I installed the hinges and doors before paint and adjusted the hinges to fit the doors. I then drilled a small hole, the same diameter of some rod I had on-hand, through door socket for the hinger arm and the hinge arm. This was to serve as alignment guide. I removed the doors and suspended them for painting. When re-installing, simply inserting a rod into the previously drilled alignment hole, correctly positioned the door. In this manner, it dramatically reduces the odds of chipping the paint when re-installing the doors.

9. I utilized a letter/number stamp set to mark the hinge body and arm as to what position they were installed in the truck and to keep them matched to their original mating. The stamped markings survive the sandblasting. I don't know how necessary that was, but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. You can se the stamped markings in the top photo, adjacent to the hinge body mounting hole.

[Wildergarten]

Mark DuVerger was the author of the video. I offered some suggestions to improve the rebuild, as comments to the YouTube video. Mark disagreed with most of them, especially the adding of a grease zerk to the hinge arm, to allow for lubrication. He claimed the bushings were "Oilrite" brand and did not require lubrication and implied lubricating them would be harmful. I disagreed and could find nothing in the NAPA specs to indicate they were Oilrite.

Try searching using the term, "oilite. "
That other site at which Mark hangs is https://www.dodgesweptline.org/

Great job with the post with the photos and description. Very helpful for when I get there. I was thinking I might turn the pins to take off the knurl and put in an e-ring to hold it. I do get it that they're a hardened material. I've used a die grinder in the tool post before. Might try that with a small cutoff wheel to make the slots. Don't know yet, I'm a long way from that job.

[64D100Poly]

Mark DuVerger was the author of the video. I offered some suggestions to improve the rebuild, as comments to the YouTube video. Mark disagreed with most of them, especially the adding of a grease zerk to the hinge arm, to allow for lubrication. He claimed the bushings were "Oilrite" brand and did not require lubrication and implied lubricating them would be harmful. I disagreed and could find nothing in the NAPA specs to indicate they were Oilrite.

Mark took the video down shortly thereafter. I'm not sure if it was because of our disagreement or the fact he is doing the rebuild for a fee, as some form of side business. Mark frequently posts here, so you could do a search for his name to find his user name and PM him. He also hosts another sweptline forum, though I can't remember the name of it.

I've got a couple photos of the hinges after rebuild. It is pretty straight forward. Mark utilized and end mill chucked in a drill press to "mortise" each side of the hinge arm, so the bushing would be flush or near flush. I sourced the end mill from McMaster-Carr, so I was able to check my order history for what I utilized:

Carbide Square End Mill with Two Milling Ends, Uncoated, 4 Flute, 1/2" Mill Diameter, 3" Overall Length PN:8889A25

Thank you for this info, greatly appreciated!

[classiclvr]

I rebuilt a set of hinges and I believe a z sized bit was used on the arm, but used a bit that was bushing sized.
I used Dorman #38400-1 pin and 4 bushings for each hinge.

[martincom]

The NAPA pin/busing kit is PN: NOE 6755143

Mark "mortises" the end of the hinge arm by chucking the end mill in a drill press and clamping the hinge arm into a cross slide vise that is, in turn, mounted to the drill press table. The arm is maneuvered/cut under the end mill by manipulating the cross slide vise adjustments. I did the same.