Decent single stage acrylic enamel?

[WD]

Readily available, easy to touch up preferred. Truck is getting a full color change. From white over dark green. To black over yellow over black at the body lines.

I know, not a correct color scheme. Not intended to be. The led lights, marker lights instead of reflectors, MP cast valve covers, L’il Red Express wheels, etc aren’t correct either. Needs to be visible at local cruise nights, oval tracks and our horrendous traffic.

Not a show pony. Kids will be crawling in and out. Will see track pusher/recovery duties. Have a stainless and aluminum marine winch going in the bed for race car recovery. Scratches will be an ongoing issue.

AE is easier to touch up than AU. So... what kind/brand of AE would YOU buy. Why? Prefer a single supplier for primer/s and color. And how much do I need?

[my5thmopar]

I would consider a high solids "fleet type" paint. AkzoNobel/Sikkens U-tech 3.8 high solids is what I've used before. I hear the Wanda line is good too. I'm not sure if either is still made. I painted my Dart with it and it held up well for several years. I even shot about 3 coats. I then was able to cut the orange peel out and buff it out. I'm an ok painter and it worked well for me. I did not like the Nason. I thought it was thin and hard to spray. I think a gallon would do it. Craig

[WD]

My last real paint job was in 1996, so.. a LOT has changed. Can’t even get my favorite spray guns anymore.

[twayne24365]

I painted my dart with a urethane single stage, it was del fleet from nyquist, I believe it’s a ppg paint, and all together with paint, activator/Hardener was about $300

[earlymopar]

I agree with twayne, single-stage urethane is great stuff. Very tough, easy to apply and not super expensive.

- EM

[Wildergarten]

I agree with twayne, single-stage urethane is great stuff. Very tough, easy to apply and not super expensive.

How much paint was that?
My truck will be a flatbed. How much paint will I need for the cab, engine compartment, etc., inside and out? 2 quarts?

[WD]

I got etching primer, normal primer, reducer, hardener and color coat for under $125 out the door. Total of 3 gallons plus 2 pints, so...

I have enough etching primer for 1.5-2 trucks. Enough regular primer for 1 truck and the motorcycle if you figure 2 coats sandwiching the glazing putty. Enough color coat for the Swepty plus the extra unmixed for later touch up work.

Valspar Fleet/Farm grade acrylic enamel. I really do like Deltron, Delthane and Imron, but... the 4 new tires on the 4wd put a serious dent in the fun funds...

[earlymopar]

I agree with twayne, single-stage urethane is great stuff. Very tough, easy to apply and not super expensive.

How much paint was that?
My truck will be a flatbed. How much paint will I need for the cab, engine compartment, etc., inside and out? 2 quarts?

It's been a long time for me so I'm not the best person to ask. Hopefully someone who has recently painted their truck will speak up.

- EM

[swptln]

I agree with twayne, single-stage urethane is great stuff. Very tough, easy to apply and not super expensive.

How much paint was that?
My truck will be a flatbed. How much paint will I need for the cab, engine compartment, etc., inside and out? 2 quarts?

2 quarts, isn't going to get you far ........painting everything inside and out is going to use a gallon of top-coat........more or less, depending on your skills and how you are applying it. Not to mention, primer/sealer might take only 2 quarts for one good coat.

[swptln]

All depends on your painting skills and the color you are planning to spray. PPG Shop Line is a great single-stage urethane. If your shooting a solid color or small parts single-stage is an excellent way to go.
If you shooting a metallic, unless your experienced in shooting metallic, I wouldn't recommend a single-stage. Metallics are better suited with base-coat, clear-coats......much easier to get a nice uniform finish on the metallic. All depends on your experience, skill and how nice you want it.

[WD]

My last semi-pro paint job was 23 years ago. 1970 FL candy purple over pearl black base. All House of Kolor, and will NEVER use that stuff again. Since then, mostly small parts and daily driver grade full resprays. Lots of epoxy or lacquer.

Both vintage trucks, the K1500 push truck and now the 56 Chevy 2dr are in line for paint. All getting two toned. The 49 and the 92 blues. The 69 black over yellow. The 56 pewter and not sure yet, all mint green was stock.

I like easy to spray, self leveling and easy to touch up. I’d use nothing but tractor paint, but, too limited a color pallete.

[Wildergarten]

2 quarts, isn't going to get you far ........painting everything inside and out is going to use a gallon of top-coat.......

Got it, thank you.

[swptln]

My last semi-pro paint job was 23 years ago. 1970 FL candy purple over pearl black base. All House of Kolor, and will NEVER use that stuff again. Since then, mostly small parts and daily driver grade full resprays. Lots of epoxy or lacquer.

A word of advise, whatever you do, never mix lacquer products with urethane or epoxy urethane products...........about the only thing you can mix with lacquer products are acrylic enamels. Acrylic enamels and lacquer products need to breathe and hold solvents for a long time. Urethanes, if sprayed over lacquer, will not allow solvents to evaporate through it and will never dry or it will solvent pop/blister. We learned this the hard way when all the new urethane stuff came about and had to completely strip a car down and repaint it, after spraying a urethane basecoat clearcoat over lacquer primer.

[my5thmopar]

Also to add to what to check. Make sure every products is compatible. Meaning anything...such as rust killer, body filler, spot filler, prep wipes etc. My 64 paint bubbled because the rust killer I used in some pits was not compatible with the acid in the primer. You have to read everything, even if you're using the same line of paint. Craig

[WD]

All compatible.

Simplified the 69 to black up high over yellow. Yellow hides funky, black emphasizes it. And my truck has been through a lot. Ridge runner, Scout troop and Venture Crew, parts hauler, storage shed... Pretty beat up.

Getting ready to pull the cattle racks off. Too heavy. They might have killed the rear springs... they’ll make nice sign holders once we relocate. Unless someone here needs them, 1960s Co-op stock racks for 8’ Dodge/Ford beds.