1971 Dodge W100 Cab Mounts

[Dale]

Looks like I'm going to need to replace the cab mounts. I'm looking for recommendations of the parts needed. I have read quite a bit, but its still foggy. I have found DCM Classics. Looking at part# B-265 Body mount/Bushing bolt kit. This kit contains 2 upper, and 2 lower mounts with special bolt/bushings. Two kits are needed per truck. Price is $65 each.

Next, I found something at Summit Racing. Part# PTP-4-102-BL. These are for Dodge, D/W Series pick up truck kit. I forgot the price of these.


Can anyone please direct me to what parts Ill need to replace all four corners of my cab, and how has these parts satisfied you? I just don't know what to look for, and what parts are dimensionality correct.

What I do know about my cab, is that the front mounts are gone. The floor pan has since rusted away, and the frame mounts can be seen. All that is left are the bolt and large washer in the dimple area of the floor pan. The same is true for the passenger side of the truck. The transmission floor cover, and about 3" before the seat, back to the cab wall is all good material. I have new pans from Kenny.

Thank you so much for any reply, and help!

[Dale]

Found this site with parts too:

**NOT ALLOWED**, llc. Part #1961-1971 Cab Mount Set # CM6171. SKU: CM6171Set. Price: $85

This looks like what I'm after! What do you guys think?

[stumblinhorse]

Most on here make their own cab mounts. I used horse stall mat to make mine. But what you have listed there from Robin will work.

[Dale]

Most on here make their own cab mounts. I used horse stall mat to make mine. But what you have listed there from Robin will work.

Thank you for the help!

I'm still arguing the fact that my cab is not too rusted out in the back. Underneath looking up, you'd swear its solid. But, from the bed height, the cab does look a little sagging. I can't really see from inside the cab, how much the cab is sagging, I just can't really see good in there. That is funny too, never seen a cab design like this.

And the huge question: How do I fix my cab, and have it sitting, looking good! If its any help, I got the OK from the wife to take it in to a body shop!

[stumblinhorse]

Talk to Kenny at http://www.exlinecustomauto.com. He has all the sheet metal you need. Hopefully you can weld!

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The bottom of the cab at the rear mounts is flat all the way across side to side. If it dips up at the mounts, its sagged.

[Dale]

No, stumblinhorse, I cant weld. I have been looking for the right person to do the welding for me. But, wanted to say thanks for the tip, to call Kenny. I see that freshly, orange painted Dodge Powerwagon on his web site. That truck looks fantastic!

I want to say my truck's sagging cab problem is common? I can understand the sagging at the front of the cab. But the back still has me scratching my head. The best bet for me is to remove the bed, and have a look. A good place to store the bed while the cab work is going on, and a few of my friends can lift the bed off the frame. It looks to me, ( being a noob ) like that 90* sheet steel angle piece running along the floor against the back of the inside cab would need cut out to gain entry to the floor piece that the rear cab mount bolts screw up through. That part seems like it would be in a frown shape. Or?

I really want to know, and understand this cab problem. It don't matter to me if I can physically fix it myself, but to learn the corrective application is what I'm excited about! After all, its MY truck, and I'm pretty picky. Pictures of my cab are going to give much better in-site than I can wright out.

I'm going to research the tougfhest, worst sheet metal cab repairs of the Sweptside Trucks. In the mean time, I will also work on getting up some pictures detailing the specific problem areas, along with pictures in general of my awesome truck!

[Dale]

The bottom of the cab at the rear mounts is flat all the way across side to side. If it dips up at the mounts, its sagged.

LOL! Thats what I just about thought! Plus, where the mount bolts screw up through, looks like as seen from only a little rectangle window, that the screw plate bolts are a little rusty. Right now, I cant think of a way to get in there other than to cut. But before that happens, I must learn of all the ways to correct the problem as to be prepaired! I dont want to be in there and be shocked at what comes next, if ya know!


Thank you!

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Those threaded plates seen thru the little "windows" are held in place with sheetmetal tabs. Often the bolts are rusted to the plates, the tabs break or deform and the plate spins. Hell to get em out when that happens.
Tricks are:
1. use a big screwdriver and hammer to bend the tabs tight against the plate.
2. soak the threads with oil/penetrant for awhile.
3. heat the plate with a torch but don't melt the threads on the bolt.
4. use short/light impact wrench bursts to remove the bolt.
5. use a 1.5" hose to vacuum all the mouse and rat nests out of the enclosed area both sides of the plate.
6. last resort when all else fails cut open the sheetmetal for better access
7. be sure to use the right combination of profanity to achieve success

[soopernaut]

How far off is the cab to bed line? Maybe the rubber is compressed too much if you don't have rust.

[Dale]

Hey guys! I've been on a mini vacation over the Thanksgiving Holiday. I hope you all had a great Holiday as well!

I've been looking under my truck pretty hard. There is not one flake of rust on the frame from bumper to bumper. There are small places in the body sheet metal where there are rust, and some holes. The cab support mounts off the frame are A-1.

Now for the BIG question: How much of a gap should there be, between the top of the frame to the bottom of the cab, at the rear two cab mount locations?

On my truck, the cab is resting on top of the frame. and not as much on the passenger side. Rust is noticeable only for the width of the top of the truck frame, along the edges, respectably.

I hope that I was able to interpret my question description to you, in that you'll know what I have here with my cab. Once my BIG question is resolved, I should ask about how to raise the cab to proper height, as so the body lines line up closely. I know, tall order! lol!

Thank you! John

[Dale]

How far off is the cab to bed line? Maybe the rubber is compressed too much if you don't have rust.

I would say I'm some where around an inch, but not more than. The front of the cab body lines are only about a half inch lower than the fender body line, and the floor pans under the operator's feet are rusted through, and on the passenger side as well.


Thank you for your suggestion, and reply!!

[Dale]

Those threaded plates seen thru the little "windows" are held in place with sheetmetal tabs. Often the bolts are rusted to the plates, the tabs break or deform and the plate spins. Hell to get em out when that happens.
Tricks are:
1. use a big screwdriver and hammer to bend the tabs tight against the plate.
2. soak the threads with oil/penetrant for awhile.
3. heat the plate with a torch but don't melt the threads on the bolt.
4. use short/light impact wrench bursts to remove the bolt.
5. use a 1.5" hose to vacuum all the mouse and rat nests out of the enclosed area both sides of the plate.
6. last resort when all else fails cut open the sheetmetal for better access
7. be sure to use the right combination of profanity to achieve success

So this is what's ahead for me! lol! Well, looks like a good place to start. I have been soaking those parts with penetrating oil quite a bit, religiously.

May I ask, for the sake of it, How would some folks go about safely raising the cab up to correct body line height? What all is listed with unbolting any other parts and components?

All I have to use would be a series of good jacks, blocking, and an extra pair of hands. I don't know that I would be able to "perfectly" set the cab to the frame, but I'm up for the challange to attempt the job, because I feel I can correct the problem to make it a little better.

Thank you, John

[Dale]

Looking at as much of the actual front cab mounts that are part of the cab, they look fairly well. Maybe a little better than some of the write-up's I read through on the net. Most likely, they will need a new plate welded across the top to support the floor pan dimple. I definitely can fix the cab up a lot, and set it so those body lines match a little better.

As for the rear cab mounts, I been thinking I'm going to have to cut into area inside the cab that hides the cab floor in which the mount bolts go through. Weld back in those pieces of course. I could get away with a nice support plate between the bottom of that section of floor, and the upper body/cab mount. I guess I'll know more when I get the cab up in the air where I'd like it. Either way, we're going to see were the rubber meets the road!