Bent Crew-Cab Body ..?

[DingBat]

Alright, So we know which truck we are discussing...
viewtopic.php?f=34&t=36978

This trucks forward body mounts were so rotten the front firewall was completely collapsed onto the frame, the tranny tunnel was resting on the trans, the under-cab brace behind the front seat was resting on the frame, the firewall was (guessing) about 1-1/2" lower than it was from the factory.

I have jacked it back up with bottle jacks into what is the closest I can approximate to it's factory position.
I spent some time fidgeting with the doors to try to get things to line up. Surprisingly, the thing wants to line up pretty well.

but... I suspect the entire cab has taken a bend. I believe the entire floor now has a subtle U shape from front to back, as even using up ALL the possible adjustment in the doors, I can get seems and lines to line up pretty well, but looking down The SweptLine it still has a U shape too it.

So I went and used the jacks to pick it up ONLY in the center (behind the front seat) in the hopes the firewall would drop relative to the rest to bring the sag out of the middle.... and nothing.

Also, on the drivers side rear door, a small are has punched thru the drip channel that clearly demonstrates what I am seeing, the entire cab has taken a slight U shape...

Any ideas on how, or if, I can straighten this thing out? Anyone run into similar? I mean, it's not HORRIBLE, but when you look down the Sweptline you can clearly see it....

(i'll try to get some pics up tomorrow)_

[dodgeboykim]

Remove it, Support it, Measure and square it and fit doors to check. Repair the weak spots.

[gww]

chances are if the cab structure and mounts are that rusted, the rockers are not far behind. the crew cab rockers and added internal support piece is what gives a crew cab its strength. sort of like any convertible. when i replaced my rockers i used 16 gauge on all 3 pcs. and made them in one pc. in length apposed to 2 pcs.. yell at me and i ll send photos. have a hell of a time trying to put a photo on here. gary

[DingBat]

actually, I've already welded in the new step pans under the doors... and they are 12 ga. stainless. So a considerably stiffer rebuild there.
I am using a mix of 16 ga and 12 ga stainless for all the fabrication on this. (some 14 ga, but I don't have very much of that)

Yes, both front rockers are rusted enough to be separated from the floor pans, the entire front body mount structure is toast.

My plan is add two more body mounts at the central pillars between the front and rear doors.

I have now removed the front jacks at the fornt body mounts, and am picking the shell up entirely at the pillars where front and rear doors meet. and the cab has not returned to it's factory position. The rear body mounts are still good so they are still intact and mounted. I have been able to see I have taken some of the sag out of the body, but not all of it. If I can re-affix the firewall to the frame, I could potentially force the center up, but I'm leery to do that and risk then tweaking the whole thing. As a welder I have all too often how you can ruin a part with a Port-A-Power trying to push something out. I was really hoping the weight of the hood and fenders and such would be enough to ull the firewall back down when I jacked up the center.

I guess I have no choice but to get more aggressive with it, I'm just scared.

[gww]

sounds like your on it.. did you receive the email to photos. correction i used 14 gauge. i adjusted doors and supported the cab front center and rear, both sides. then removed doors. made bolt in plates to attach to the center post hinge holes then welded them to tube with adjustable legs to support center post. also tied them together side to side. then removed the under side center support to access removal of the rockers. then cut everything out , cleaned , welded in new. the stainless is a great ideal.

[DingBat]

I did get the pics, thank you. I see you reproduced the factory body mount and sheet metal profiles. I am not.

I like what you did with the door hinges though.

Well, I've already formulated a plan for my new body mounts, and I think I know how to attack this now. unfortunately my hopes for a magic-wand solution didn't happen, but some old fashioned hard work should do it.

Thanks guys.

[digdoug]

If you can make the sweptline on a crew flow, you really are a magician. The line on the rear door does not slope , but it does on the rest of the truck. This makes for a funky line on the crews.

[DingBat]

ah-ha, now that's a useful tidbit i did not know. interesting. well, my goal is to make "the line" as straight and even as possible, i've already gotten darned close, but close and "there" can be miles apart... but it's good to know i might be fighting a losing battle and have to settle for original "funky" line if the factory broke the slope.... thank you for that info.

[digdoug]

You're welcome. You are doing great work!