Epoxy Primer

[Enon]

How many of you used this? I am, and it seems to work really well. My understanding is, though, that I will still need a traditional primer after this. I was told this is more of a metal sealer. Is this correct?

[Jims68]

The epoxy primer I used was thick and you were able to use it to fill sand scratches. It was DP20 made by Diamont. Not even sure if it is still used. Anyway, the process was you used an etch primer over bare metal, then use the DP20. You can leave it sit for weeks at a time, but if you DO leave it sit, you would need to sand and apply another coat before the paint. OK... so I am saying, CHECK your manufacturers instructions on how to use it. Depends on the Manufacture of the material you use. Other than that, I would say NO you don't need to top coat it with "regular" primer before paint. Whew! Good Luck, but DO check with the Manufacturers instructions.

[Enon]

Thats kinda why I am asking. It is the house brand from eastwood. I did call them and I'm unsure if they are just looking to sell me more stuff. They say that it isn't a filler primer.

[my5thmopar]

Thats kinda why I am asking. It is the house brand from eastwood. I did call them and I'm unsure if they are just looking to sell me more stuff. They say that it isn't a filler primer.

That is correct it is not a filler primer. Epoxy is a great primer to over bare metal. It will fill sand scratches and It will stick to almost anything. That doesn't mean you can cover rust. It also can be thinned and used as a sealer. You still need a 2k urethane filler primer. Not my preference but, you can use DTM (direct to metal) which is a filler primer with an etching component. Some DTM have a polyester filler for the surfacer. My 2 cents as follows.

Sand, kill rust.
Epoxy
Body Filler ( make sure the epoxy states it is OK.)
2k surfacer
Block to but not through epoxy
2k sufracer
Epoxy sealer
Paint

[Jims68]

This info is all "moot" at this point, but I found the "technical page" at Diamont for DP20:

http://colortonepaints.com/rmtech/DP20.htm

I realize that you are not using this... but this was for my own "sanity" that I find it! I see they say it can be used over "Treated" bare metal. Not sure what that means, but we always used DE18/DA18 "etch" primer over bare metal. We used EP689 as a sealer. I know NOW I would not use this stuff as it is WAY OUT of my price range now. Anyway, whatever you use... Good Luck!

Back in the "old" days we used Laquer primer over bare metal and "quick slick" sealer and then finish with DuPont Centari. I don't think ANY of that stuff is around anymore! and it worked great!

[712edf]

I remember using DuPont Centari in the late 80's! Good stuff, better than my body work.

Bucky

[Enon]

Jim, that may be why it is no longer available. I have been using this epoxy. Having never painted a vehicle, I am pretty impressed how well it is sticking. I have had no runs or streaks thus far.

[wally426ci]

My problem with epoxy was it gumming up the sandpaper...... i use etch primer but I've been thinking about moving back to epoxy..

[Jims68]

My problem with epoxy was it gumming up the sandpaper...... i use etch primer but I've been thinking about moving back to epoxy..

I've never had that happen... Sounds like you were maybe sanding it when it was still not fully cured. The DP20 was some really good stuff... and really expensive!! It would sand good either wet or dry.

Just a note.... Acrylic Enamel (similar to Centari) is still available from different manufacturers, but just not "DuPont Centari".

[my5thmopar]

My problem with epoxy was it gumming up the sandpaper...... i use etch primer but I've been thinking about moving back to epoxy..

I've never had that happen... Sounds like you were maybe sanding it when it was still not fully cured. The DP20 was some really good stuff... and really expensive!! It would sand good either wet or dry.

Just a note.... Acrylic Enamel (similar to Centari) is still available from different manufacturers, but just not "DuPont Centari".

What Jim said.

Ive never seen the need to sand epoxy anyway. Just spray the 2k over it. You can also scuff it with a red scotch pad. Some Epoxys with high soilds can be used in mositure prone applications. Always check the manufactures directions.

[712edf]

FWIW I recall once when I bought paint & reducer, it was several months before I used them. Well the weather obviously was quite a bit different from when I bought the reducer and when I actually applied the product.... Finish dried way too fast, had an "overspray" look, because my reducer wasn't correct for the current temperature. Lived & learned.
Bucky

[Jims68]

FWIW I recall once when I bought paint & reducer, it was several months before I used them. Well the weather obviously was quite a bit different from when I bought the reducer and when I actually applied the product.... Finish dried way too fast, had an "overspray" look, because my reducer wasn't correct for the current temperature. Lived & learned.
Bucky

Slow reducer (extends drying time) for Summer time (OR you can add retarder to slow down your medium/fast reducer); FAST reducer (shortens drying time) for Winter; Medium reducer is safe to use all year (pretty much)

[Cody100]

All we ever used in the shop was a direct to metal (DTM) primer filler/sealer, it's almost like an everything in one primer that will fill sand scratches and small pin holes as well as seal and protect bare metal and elimanate the need for an epoxy. If you can sand without breaking through the primer before paint you can go directly to your base coat without any further priming. This was at a production shop with mostly insurance repairs and not restorations however so