How do I keep the "patina?"

Body, Trim, Interior, Dealer options, Paint e tc..
dlynes
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Re: How do I keep the "patina?"

Post by dlynes »

Outlaw wrote:I've been saving random bits of information for my build and this is what i have collected for restoring paint: (all this is copy/paste from other sites & had amazing before/after shots)

Removes surface rust - Poured CLR into a bucket and diluted with water. Used a green scotch brite and used medium pressure. It leaves the surface surpassingly smooth, no scatches. Must wash & wax immediately afterwards.

first washed it with dawn. Second I sprayed the paint down with simple green and rubbed some of the oxidation off with that. Simple green is an amazing product! Then I washed with dawn again. After that I used the Mequires clay bar system to take off any hard deposits. After the clay bar I used Mequires ultimate compound and then mequires cleaner wax.

use a product made by Turtle wax called "Color Back" it can be found in the waxes at your local auto parts store, You just wipe it on, then use a clean towel to wipe it off
great info!

Thanks!

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64D100Poly
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Re: How do I keep the "patina?"

Post by 64D100Poly »

I use linseed oil cut with mineral spirits, it's pretty well documented for use on cars, but it's been used for years on farm equipment and what not. Wash everything then put the mix on a rag and wipe on, only downside is its tacky for a few days but once it dries it looks nice. I drive my truck daily and in a lot of rain and it completely protects it, I recoat every month and a half or so, you can tell when the linseed wears thin.
A grinder & paint make me the welder I ain't

-1965 (early) D100 Sweptline Daily
-1961 Dodge Dart Pioneer
-1968 Barracuda Formula S
OO\===/OO

PwrWgnDrvr
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Re: How do I keep the "patina?"

Post by PwrWgnDrvr »

Boiled or raw?
That soaked rag when you're done is the most awesome recipe for guaranteed spontaneous combustion!

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66patrick
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Re: How do I keep the "patina?"

Post by 66patrick »

The bad thing about linseed oil is it makes prepping the truck for an eventual paint job so much harder!!! There will always be residue in the metal from the oil, and any dirt that might hang around with that. Even with soda-blasting the surface, there will very likely be problems in the paint process. I sold a truck years ago to a guy that I used the linseed oil treatment on, and it looked pretty damn nice! The buyer was prepping the metal later on, and he said he had huge issues with the linseed oil treatment, Unless you are sure you are never, ever going to prime or paint the truck, go ahead with the linseed oil. I'd strongly recommend against.

Please, please do NOT spray a gloss clear over what you have!!! Nothing looks like $hi# like a vehicle needing a paint job with clear shot over it!!!
[b]Patrick - 1969 D300 cab & chassis[/b]

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