POR 15 products

[rx1mtnman]

I have found a little rust in the floor of my truck and am debating what to do about it. There is a small spot by the kick panel on the divers side, a little bit on both front floor pans where they mate up to the step/rocker panel and a small spot in the drivers step/rocker panel. It looks like a lot of work to cut and replace for no bigger than the spots are. My question is has anybody used the POR 15 products to repair rust holes and how does it hold up? It's not going to be a show truck and most of this will be covered by bedliner or diamond aluminum. I just want it to hold up and not look like a hack job. Your comments would be appreciated.

[wally426ci]

i like their stuff. I would treat it with metal ready to stop the rust, then POR over it. Then maybe if it has just pinholes you could use some type of filler. If its actual bad rust you could cut it out.

[juddoats]

i undercoated my cab and truckbed both with POR 15 that stuff dries soooo shiny and hard as nails

[aqmet]

I had a similar situation on my 62 Valiant; the passenger’s side floor was generally solid but rusty with some small pin holes. I used POR15 with their “Power Mesh” cloth. The Power Mesh is just a very fine non-woven fiberglass mat. It took care of the problem and I doubt the rust will ever come back. Make sure to wear gloves, or it will be on your hands for days.

[rx1mtnman]

Thanks for the replies. I will look at the problem areas and think about it some more.

[jimmy]

I used Por 15 in my truck, They call it poor mans powder coat arount here.

I loved it and seem to hold up very well.

Always us the metal ready first. As I recall its two parts one that cleans and one that kills the rust. The top coat (paint) is what seals air and moistur from reactivating the rust.

Por 15 also makes a Seam sealer style patch that comes in a tube like tooth paist. It also works great for small holes.

Like someone already said, make sure you don't get any on your skin, or your have to for about a week. Also it will never wash out of clothes.

I found Por 15's weekness, if you soda blast make sure you clean metal just like you would if your going to paint. Then apply the cleaners, converters, and top coats.

[hampstead38]

I used POR-15 on the frame of our vintage Airstream. I like the stuff, but it's sensitive to UV. You have to keep it out of the sun or it breaks down. This isn't a problem under cover, but you have to think about using it on the exterior. I use the Marine Clean and Metal Ready before shooting the POR-15.

[nfury8]

POR can fail, we used a bunch of it on my Fury and it is pealing in a few places.
Make sure you use the prep stuff and have some tooth for it to cling to. New metal
should be blasted or sanded. I had a new spring perch on an axle I sand blasted. It held
great on the axle, but the perch was added after blasting. The POR blew right off the
perch with a pressure washer!

The problem with POR is that when it fails, you may not know until serious damage
has occurred. The paint is tough enough that is will not bubble, more of a subtle
bulge. So a panel could rot away under it, and you might not know it!

A few years ago a magazine did a test with the clear POR and they could see the rust
start to form under it.

Good stuff, but not a magic wonder. It doesn't neutralize rust, it just seals it from
the oxygen, so it can't grow. The hard paint then seeps into the tooth and supports it.
If the surface gets a crack or a pin hole and oxygen finds away under it, the rust comes
back to life.

[70W200]

Eastwood has a pretty good system from what I have read. In fact, it is suposedly comparable, and in some opinions, better than POR-15. Of course good prep work is the key to anything. That means getting the metal ready to accept the top coat (Encapsulator as Eastwood calls it). Eastwood has Rust Convertor which basically stops the rust process. I have used the convertor on my 1969 Furyy III with good results. I am going to try the Eastwood system on my '70 W-200's bed and floor pans. I noticed that the bed does not have any drain holes like today's pickups, thus it holds water....AARRGGHH!!! The bed on my truck is pretty solid with no rust-through, but moisture always seems to win.

[Hobcobble]

Rust never sleeps.
I used POR on a properly prepped and treated frame.
I refer to POR as "Peels Of Readily" as another Sweptline
member once stated. I've never tried Eastwood
products but know some who have..... the feedback
is pretty much that of those who've used POR. For
my frames, I now use Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer
and top coat it with Rustoleum Satin Black. I use the
bulk of my available $$ for the engine & drive-line.
Your frame will get chips in it no matter which products
you use.... no matter how tough each product is purported
to be. Rust will form behind POR & Eastwood finishes just
as it will with something less expensive. I think I've got
about $12.50 in primer and paint on each frame I've done.
To each their own, I say.
John

[nfury8]

I haven't used Eastwood's Encapsulator, I don't like covering rust, I want it GONE!
But I have used their Chassis Black, and think it is a quality product. I used it on
my Fury after I ran out of POR. Both were used on clean, blasted metal. With the
exception of the areas where POR has peeled off, The Chassis Black is holding
up just as well as the POR under the car. The Chassis Black is much cheaper,
easier to work with and doesn't contain cyanide.

[reallylongnickname]

Eastwood has a pretty good system from what I have read. In fact, it is suposedly comparable, and in some opinions, better than POR-15...

Eastwood wesite sell POR-!5. seems odd to offer their competitor's product.

[bigdav160]

I've used both POR15 and Rust Encapsulator. Totally different products. I'm not a chemist so I don't know their chemical compositions but Rust Encapsulator is like a high solid paint. Very similar to GE Gyptal paint we used to paint the insides of engines with.

POR15 is some type of urethane. Cures in moisture and just gets harder and harder. It dries smooth and likes rough surfaces. I can see it used to fill pinholes in floors.

Oh, and those rust converters that Eastwood sells, it's just diluted phosphoric acid.

[Russ]

POR-15 has a good following and a lot of guys swear by it, but I haven't used it enough to have an opinion. I do know from experience that it will peel off if you don't prep the surface first. The PO had POR'ed the floor of my 69 Dodge over the original paint, and I easily peeled it off with a wire brush.
I've had good luck using Ospho and painting over it with Rustoleum. It's much cheaper and I think it's just as good.

[one54dodgetruck]

I just used rust mort on my truck. Hope it holds up.

[robertob]

There's a few spots on my truck where the previous owner used POR and it's all peeling off (brake backing plates, few spots under the bed). He used the Eastwood rust encapsulator on the floorboards and it is holding up great, even with no carpet over it.

When I do the underside of the truck again I will probably use phophoric acid to remove the surface rust, roloc discs to clean it up and rustoleum. I've used rustoleum on several motorcycle frames and it is really good, tough stuff.

[reallylongnickname]

Any other findings since the original date of this thread 2 year old thread? Hows it all holding out?

[Wildergarten]

For my frames, I now use Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and top coat it with Rustoleum Satin Black. I use the bulk of my available $$ for the engine & drive-line.

It looks to me like each of these products do have their niches. I suspect Rust Encapsulator would be great inside a cowling where it is very hard to get all the rust out and there is no possibility of a chip in the paint. It won't take much to cover in an area that small either. I'm going to blast the frame, so any primer that sticks is likely to be better than factory, but I may use a phosphoric acid treatment to get into the lap joints such as where brackets are riveted to the frame. I'm thinking using Rustoleum's marine coating system on the frame, including the top coat because it is likely to provide better corrosion resistance than their standard product line. On the body seams, I'll definitely be doing what I can to passivate with whatever phosphoric acid treatment I can get to penetrate and then go for an epoxy primer.

Still haven't decided what to do for an underbody coating and in fender wells. When I was a kid, I used to put roofing tar over the surface with aluminum foil stuck to it over the rotating elements such as U-joints and splines so that I could simply wipe off the oil and grease. There's got to be something better.

[hmaynord]

por-15 is some sensitive stuff
por-15's own instructions state that 1 drop of sweat ruins the whole can: see 7 in the link
and james bond would be appreciate 11 in the link
https://www.dropbox.com/s/sbvocge5n3ae4 ... t.pdf?dl=0