High Build Primer surfacer

[Rusty_Quarters]

Any suggestions for a good High build primer, I haven't used any of this new stuff, the last car I painted was in the mid 80's and they didn't have all these high teck high build primers back then, but, I have seen some of these now that spray thin then thicken up and fill all of the scratches and even small low spots, good and affordable if possible, I don't like to spend more than $100 for something that is going to get mostly sanded back off.

[nfury8]

3M's Mar-Hyde line offers a variety of primers that are considerably cheaper than the big name stuff.
I got a gallon of their Ultimate 2k Primer Surface and a quart of catalyst for use on my bed for $60.
This was recommended to me by a couple friends in the biz as a good, affordable primer.
WAY cheaper than the PPG Deltron I used at the shop on my cab, glad I didn't have to pay for it!

For small stuff, I have been pretty happy with Dupli-Colors rattle can High Build Primer and Primer Sealer.

[Panelbeater02]

I like to use Spies Hecker spray polyester. Mixes with it's own hardener, smells like fiberglass resin when sprayed. Vey good for block sanding panels arrow straight.
About 30 to 40 dollars a quart, but some other paint co's have a similar product. You cannot put it on bare metal, or, over etch prime. Prime with 2 K
surfacer, then apply the poly, spray slow, because it is thick. Supposed to use a 2.5 Poly tip on the primer gun. Overnite dry, then block with 180 grit on blocks, it sands like butter and fills even hail dammage. I like it because you don't have to prime and block repeatedly($$$$$$ and time) You only have to do the areas that need it. When finished with blocking, topcoat with 3 coats of 2K surfacer, then wet sand to get ready for paint.

I use a 2K primer from the PPG store called Shopline. Works good, and costs a lot less than mainstream 2K stuff.

Just my suggestion, it works for me, but if you talk to 10 people you will get 10 different ideas.

Panelbeater

[Rusty_Quarters]

I have been looking and asking around at local shops to anyone who will talk to me, you have confirmed what a couple of them have said, and you listed a name brand for what I need which is excellent, this is the kind of info I was looking for, I already have the surfacer and have de-greased, de-waxed, sanded, and sprayed with surfacer, so I am glad to hear that I can shoot this over the surfacer, I have seen some of these that go directly onto bare metal, and I did not take mine all the way to bare metal, as the paint under was pretty good, but, there was some waves and grocery cart rash that I sanded to bare, and sprayed with some etching primer, for the most part, just want to get rid of the small stuff without several coats of body filler, for the tiniest of spots, and was told that some of these new primer fillers will fill the small stuff and get rid of some of the bigger sanding scratches, without me having to spend months getting it straight. Is there a time limit on spraying this after you mix it, or just the usual, body filler sets up in 5 minutes or less, is this like that, or can I mix enough to shoot the whole truck at once, or should I mix smaller portions and do one panel at a time?

Panelbeater, you may have just opened pandora's box, I may be the stalker you never knew you had , I have questions, and will continue to have questions, that a guy named panelbeater can probably answer.
thanks
Kent

[Panelbeater02]

Glad to help Kent,

I started autobody work in 1975, so I have been around. I still do not know it all( I am in college online now).

The spray poly has a "working time or pot life' of 2 hours depending on the temp where you spray. I would mix up enough to do 1 or 2 panels at a time.

Never ever leave any mixed poly in the gun, if it sets up, you will have to throw the gun away!!!!

If you didn't go to bare metal, that's good. The poly will work great, you can use 2 to 5 coats anywhere you need it.

I have heard over the years from different people that Boyd Coddington would spread filler over the whole vehicle, then block. To me, that is a hack job.

I had respect for the man and what he has done, but after hearing from people that actually worked on cars he built( for new owners here locally)

he could hack with the best of them, and get $200,000 for the car or more!!!! I have used poly for years and never had one "come back" with problems.

Always happy to help!

Panelbeater





1971 D-100
1967 D100
1965 Coronet 440 survivor
1946 Dodge 1/2 ton pickup
all of the above in various stages of not being worked on!

[nfury8]

The spray poly is neat stuff, very helpful in getting a vehicle razor sharp and straight.
I am not worrying about that on my Truck, but the body shop used it on my Fury.
They did like described, sprayed all the major panels and blocked it silly, after the major body work.
Sanding off almost all of it, but what remained left a perfectly straight body. People see my Fury
(all 18-1/2" long of it!) and are constantly amazed how straight it is. The shop spent several months
working on the body. It wasn't pretty to start, but it sure is now!

It would take a huge wad of cash and a ton of time to get the metal on the truck as straight as the Fury.
Nothing lined up on the truck, even when new. It would require a lot more skill than I have to make it all
line up perfectly! Being a crew cab does not help any.

[Panelbeater02]

The only difference in a show vehicle is that 100's of hours are spent on body details and hidden areas that most of us don't think of or care about. There is no magic formula.
I have worked on a few, and when it was done, I was glad to be finally rid of it. Never seemed to get paid enough for the trouble.
Sweptys were not pretty when new, and yes after years of hard use, they are a mother to deal with. Not to mention the rust factor.
I have a 65 Coronet 440 with original paint, and the paint is awful!!! They definitely were not into quality back then. It has shine but way too much orange peel. If I were to repaint like it is, I would be laughed at!!!
Anyone can have a show vehicle, just spend 100's of hours and lots of money! But, how many do you see? Just to have a decent swepty that is clean will attract a lot of attention! You don't have to have super straight panels to win with a driver.
Panelbeater

[rd200]

Great imput panelbeater. My 65 D200 is in the process of being repainted. Right now it looks awful. I have had many compliments over the years, and many people wanting to buy it. Just still being on the road after all these years pulls a lot of weight. The restore is comming along well. But I have to keep reminding myself not to become to obsessive over every little blemish. Yesterday I was on the groung trying to feather edge sand a small pinhead size paint chip. I then thought who is going to lay on the ground and look up at my lower bed panel to check for a pin size chip. I no longer sand while laying down...

[dodged200]

Any show car is a mud pit with a pretty paint job.