What do you use to paint your frames with?

LAWFISH · Post by **LAWFISH** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:26 am

I have the bed off of my truck and the whole front off of it. So I may as well paint the frame. its my 67 PW W100 short wide. I dont want it body color OR ANYTHING REAL PERFECT, ITS GOING TO BE A DRIVER AND 4X4. i WAS thinking red liner or maybe something a little bit less thick but of the same consistancy? HAS ONY ONE DONE THIS?

LAWFISH

Post by **Hobcobble** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:54 am

LAWFISH wrote:I have the bed off of my truck and the whole front off of it. So I may as well paint the frame. its my 67 PW W100 short wide. I dont want it body color OR ANYTHING REAL PERFECT, ITS GOING TO BE A DRIVER AND 4X4. i WAS thinking red liner or maybe something a little bit less thick but of the same consistancy? HAS ONY ONE DONE THIS?

LAWFISH

Seeing as though you're in the land of inexpensive, plentiful, low rust Sweptlines, you
might give thought to using a can of paint on Rustoleum

John

62dodgedog · Post by **62dodgedog** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 6:47 pm

I just put Gator Guard inside my CJ7 but before I sprayed that in I put some chasis cover, can't remember the name, down first just to seal it good. Got me to thinking this would look real good and cover up nicely on the frame of my "62. It brushes on easy and gives a pretty decent black shine.

RussRoth · Post by **RussRoth** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 11:40 pm

Hobcobble wrote: Seeing as though you're in the land of inexpensive, plentiful, low rust Sweptlines, you
might give thought to using a can of paint on Rustoleum
John

That's what I used. Rusty metal red primer first and then black over that. The black does not stand up to brake fluid but the primer does. Easy to touch up though.

nfury8 · Post by **nfury8** » Tue Oct 28, 2008 8:53 pm

Another vote for Rustoleum or similar. My crew has some tractor paint on the frame
that was $20 a gallon in satin black. It has worked out great, easy to touch up and and
pretty tough.

FYI, POR-15 doesn't hold up against brake fluid either. Don't ask how I know.

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 4:48 am

I'm not understanding where the brake fluid is coming from?? the master cylinder is on the firewall and all brake lines are connected before fluid is put in, and when bleeding, in 1 person with 1 man system then that goes in container, 2 man system, not even close to the frame, so whats up with you guys and brake fluid?
if you really want it to last for a long time then first strip it down all the way down to bare metal, treat your metal with

: p15-c-metalimg.jpg (7.42 KiB) Viewed 656 times

this Metal ready if you follow the instructions will eat any surface rust, notice I said eat, for its gone not hidden, then once thats done you can use their frame paint, @ www.por15.com this will last for decades

try not to take a bath in brake fluid

I wonder if I'm the only one with a painted Master Cylinder, I put silicone brake fluid in 1 time 5 years ago and its still their

never had any leaks whatsoever.

PowerMan · Post by **PowerMan** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 10:04 am

We got our frames sandblasted and then just sprayed on John Deere Medium Gloss black (no primer).
It looks nice.

Power Man

tinbasher · Post by **tinbasher** » Wed Oct 29, 2008 8:37 pm

por-15 is tough, tough, tough.

i think it works better if you sandblast first though.

rjm

Jims68 · Post by **Jims68** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:21 am

I wire brushed my frame by hand, and a drill with an attachment wire wheel. I used a $20 gallon of Rustoleum on my frame and no primer. I used a brush and painted it outside when it was nice. Still looks good. You don't see much of the frame anyway, unless you look into the fender wells, or laying on your back on the ground. Also, if your doing a driver, no sense in spending a TON of mony on POR15 either. POR15 is nice though, but expensive. IF your doing a show truck, then, I would not brush on the paint.... but do a "show" finish on it. I don't see the point of doing a show paint job on the frame if it is going to be driven though...

As for "how" brake fluid gets on the frame... loose connections, or a

bad flaring job... at the junction block that mounts on the frame.

Jim

nfury8 · Post by **nfury8** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 10:25 pm

The subframe on my Fury was sandblasted, treated with Metal Ready and then painted with POR.
A fitting on the combo valve, mounted on the frame rail, developed a small leak. Just a drop
here and there, took a whole season to loose enough fluid to really notice the level drop.
Ate the POR off, in a 2 foot long, 1/4" wide stripe.

I see lots of talk about POR being the end all, but some quick searching will show many cases
of the opposite, including a auto restorer magazine. That write up is available on Eastwoods site.

I have also used Eastwoods Chassis paint, which is nice, but not as tough as advertised.
Don't get me wrong, not saying POR is junk, just not all the hype would say.

After the frame on my crew was blasted I primed it with a rattle can rust converter, and then
used the tractor paint. For the cost, I am much happier with the tractor paint vs the POR.
Also, I could have had it powder coated for what it would have cost, had I painted it with POR.
POR does setup HARD, DON'T get it on any threads! I got sloppy with it on the spindles for my
crew and almost didn't get the caliper brackets on!

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 4:50 am

I just ordered a Gallon of POR15 and its under $40 with shipping ($31.75+shipping) I don't think that is too exspensive, and considering the "long term" savings? I'll be tearing into the Project 68, and that will be used on everything, and it will be a daily driver

but I also want it to look nice to go out on the Weekends and "hang out" with the other Sweptline truck owners here

Russ · Post by **Russ** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 7:55 am

I've read where some restoration shops say not to use a very hard paint on frames. They recommend using a plain air dry enamel like Rustoleum or similar if you are going to drive the vehicle. The reason is that enamel stays more flexible and if a rock hits it it does not hurt, while a hard paint will chip if it's hit hard. I've use Rustoleum on all of the trucks that I've restored and it's worked out fine for me. I've also used some paint that was labeled "chassis black" that worked well.

Post by **Hobcobble** » Fri Oct 31, 2008 9:00 am

MountainMoparRobin wrote:I just ordered a Gallon of POR15 and its under $40 with shipping ($31.75+shipping) I don't think that is too exspensive, and considering the "long term" savings?

Robin....
Let us know your source for $40/gal. POR-15. Their official website lists it for $143.00 FOB.
I used POR-15 on a '68 D100 frame.... did the prep work as directed.... used the metal prep
as directed..... did everything according to their instructions. I top coated using their Chassis
Coat black.... per their instructions. If this gets "knicked".... it peels off in sheets. I ended
up having to re-surface large areas of the frame and I went over them with Rustoleum primer
and top coated with Rustoleum semi-gloss black. I've heard success stories and, like in my
case, I've also heard not so good stories.

Please post the link for $40/gallon POR-15 for those who believe in it.... that's a heck of a
deal.

John

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:07 am

I just ordered it from their website www.por15.com don't know where you saw that price?

METAL-READYTM provides the best adhesion for POR-15® on any metal surface, including aluminum and shiny polished metal surfaces. Our simple process gently etches metal, creating an ideal anchor pattern for coatings such as POR-15®, while simultaneously leaving a zinc phosphate coating to insure chemical bonding of paint and steel. Avoid other preps that may leave harmful residues which prevent proper adhesion. After thoroughly degreasing your work piece, apply environmentally safe METAL-READYTM to both neutralize any rust and etch any clean bare metal. This will allow better adhesion of POR-15® or any other paint. METAL-READYTM is not caustic, corrosive, toxic or flammable.

Quart.............. $16.50
Gallon............. $31.75

Size Please select GALLON QUART

Qty

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:11 am

Hobblecobble where in the world did you see 143.00? I don't see that on their website http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR&dept=2
you have to click on Metal Ready to order and the information I posted came from their website, I've been ordering from them for almost 10 years and the price has been almost unchanged

I don't think they have a product that is even close to $143.00 unless its a year supply?
don't know what you could have possibly done wrong but you need Metal Ready to treat the body with also, if you take it down to bare metal, it etches it, and stops rust, notice I said "stop" not cover or convert

nfury8 · Post by **nfury8** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 4:00 pm

The Metal Ready surface prep is $31.75 a gallon.
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR&dept=2

The POR-15 paint is $143 a gallon - $29.95 a pint.
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=1&dept=1

Post by **Hobcobble** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:55 pm

MountainMoparRobin wrote:Hobblecobble where in the world did you see 143.00? I don't see that on their website http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=MR&dept=2
you have to click on Metal Ready to order and the information I posted came from their website, I've been ordering from them for almost 10 years and the price has been almost unchanged I don't think they have a product that is even close to $143.00 unless its a year supply?
don't know what you could have possibly done wrong but you need Metal Ready to treat the body with also, if you take it down to bare metal, it etches it, and stops rust, notice I said "stop" not cover or convert

Robin,
You stated that you bought a gallon of POR-15, which I took to mean the actual paint on
black coating which is what I found at $143/gal.. Metal Ready, as I understand, is $31.75/gal..
I used the Metal Ready when I did my frame.... then the POR-15 black coating followed by
their Chassis Coat Black...... all their products..... all applied per their instructions. It peels
off when nicked. I did it all properly.... don't know what else I can say

John

63d100sixer · Post by **63d100sixer** » Sat Nov 01, 2008 8:22 pm

Step one...go to home depot

step two...buy 5 cans of el cheapo gloss black spray paint...its $.99 a can...

not a real good shot, but it looks great, best of all, since its gonna be under the bed, it doesnt have to look great

step three....spray away, just clean really good

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Sun Nov 02, 2008 4:44 am

Yeah that would suck, to have it peel off, I used the frame paint also after metal ready on the 440 and its still their.
but the paint isn't as important, I think any of the paints should do fine.
2 ways of dealing with rust
1. kill it
2. smother it
if it doesn't get moisture or oxygen it can't spread

Post by **Hobcobble** » Sun Nov 02, 2008 7:35 am

MountainMoparRobin wrote:Yeah that would suck, to have it peel off, I used the frame paint also after metal ready on the 440 and its still their.
but the paint isn't as important, I think any of the paints should do fine.
2 ways of dealing with rust
1. kill it
2. smother it
if it doesn't get moisture or oxygen it can't spread

Kill it.... smother it.... grind it.... sand it..... wire brush it..... just keep
in mind the words of Neil Young..... "Rust Never Sleeps"

I've had great luck with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer and their Semi-Gloss
Black..... brush it on and forget about it.
John

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