How to fix cab sag?

[2bluesweptlines]

I'm sure this has been brought up a number of times, but I'll go for the victory lap on this one. What is the cause of, and how does one fix cab sag (when the cab and bed don't line up) The rear of my cab sits roughly 1/2" below the front of the bed. I know this is a common problem with a lot of older trucks, not just Swepties.

[66patrick]

The rear cab mounts start to go to hell after a number of years, and it is usually the METAL that goes bad, rather than the rubber isolator. This is a common problem on all '60s and '70s trucks, regardless of make. I've had GM trucks where the rear mounting area goes away; and late '60s Fords where the front mount rusts into dust, and the front of the cab sags and the steering becomes a huge issue! Most Swepties I've had, have had the front mounts dissolve into nothingness, rather than the rear.

How do you fix it? Weld new metal back into where the old mount was and restore the area to the way it should be. Find someone whose fabrication skills are good, if you are not a good welder.

[2bluesweptlines]

Yes, I was afraid of that. It's not so bad though, as I am planning on taking the cab and bed off sometime in the near future to so all the other body work, so a little extra welding and fabbing won't make too much difference to me.

Can you see the mounts from under the truck or does the cab have to be off? Doesn't make any difference I guess as I can't fix it with the cab on, but I am vurious to see what it looks like under there.

[Hobcobble]

Can you see the mounts from under the truck or does the cab have to be off?

You need to get under your truck more often All kidding aside, you CAN
see the entire set up..... frame bracket, insulator, cab bolt, etc. [Behind your seat
there is a small access hole near the rear seat mounts where you can shine a flash
light and see where the cab bolt is threaded into.] The best time to get at this area
is when [or if] the cab is off of the frame.
John

[2bluesweptlines]

Yes I do need to get under there more often! I've been pre-occupied with building the motor and in the meantime the truck is sitting in ever increasing amount of tall grass with all kinda of fun critters around-but still no excuse...

Hopefullt I'll get done with the motor fairly soon so I can start crankin on the body-not looking forward to it...

[Jeffc]

I line the cab and bed up by using the body line that runs the hood to tail, were ever that
lines up is were the bed and cab should look right. If the bed top is higher than
the rear of cab below the window then there is were it stays. If there is a slope side to
side it is more often the way it was made in the frist place. Body panel fit was not
great on these trucks most of the time and there often are odd fits.
Yes, check mounts (front mounts are a common problem, rears happen but not
often, bed mount also) but if they check out blame it on the factory.
To my eye the body line holds your eye a lot more than were the top
of the bed lines to the cab,,,,,,,,,,,

[Slodge]

While there is no replacement for good metal work, you can make your swepty look better in about a half hour. Check out mine. I'm planning on some major metal work over winter, but till then, I had to do something about the sagging rear of the cab. I had some thick washers laying around with a small bolt hole size. I simply took out the rear cab mount bolts, jacked the cab, inserted them, and that was that. As with any old bolt, if it starts to hang up you'll wanna work it back and forth. Mine started fine so I air gunned them out with no trouble. Check my before and after pics. You may agree it was a half hour well spent. Good luck on yours!

[pauly055]

Looks like your metal's fine, may just need new rubber mounts.
For a temporary (until I can find new mounts), I just used the lower rubber piece where the squashed upper one goes. Just flip em.