Cab

[reallylongnickname]

Im returning this truck back to its original state. As u can see there is a gaping hole. Im putting a piece of sheet metal in there to fill the hole. I want to follow with the contours of the design rather than just a square piece with pop-rivets.
A body shop would use a roller, but what could I do if its just a one time job and have it look professional? Which type of welding would be best?

[CSS-Registry]

where are you located?

the best solution in repairing that would be to find a donor cab. how wide of a section do you need?

on my original rusty cab that section may still be useable - if you let me know what you need i can check it out for you. if it works out i will cut out that section and some extra with a Sawzall. once you get it you can figure out the rest.

Ben

[RussRoth]

Im returning this truck back to its original state. As u can see there is a gaping hole. Im putting a piece of sheet metal in there to fill the hole. I want to follow with the contours of the design rather than just a square piece with pop-rivets.
A body shop would use a roller, but what could I do if its just a one time job and have it look professional? Which type of welding would be best?

Looks just about right for a walk-in sleeper.

[CSS-Registry]

Which type of welding would be best?

i would use a wire feed mig welder and "butt" weld the seams together. you simply cut the pieces until they just fit and then tack it in place. then you keep tacking it to keep heat to a minimum. once all the welds are done you grind them all flat and bondo the crap out out of it.

you could overlap the seams but it won't turn out as nice.

Ben

[reallylongnickname]

where are you located?

the best solution in repairing that would be to find a donor cab. how wide of a section do you need?

on my original rusty cab that section may still be useable - if you let me know what you need i can check it out for you. if it works out i will cut out that section and some extra with a Sawzall. once you get it you can figure out the rest.

Ben

Sounds like it could be a good opportunity for me Ben. The width is 26". Im in Ontario near the NY border. Far bit away from
Florida.

Russ, there was a custom made camper on it.

[RussRoth]

Russ, there was a custom made camper on it.

I wasn't so far off after all then.

[CSS-Registry]

i'll see if that section is still usable and send you a photo.

[Hobcobble]

i'll see if that section is still usable and send you a photo.

I'll fall in behind Ben with an offer. I have a '71 D100 that I'll be parting out sometime this
summer/fall. You can come and get the chunk you need. I'm in Lockport, NY north of
Buffalo.
John

[Ruckus]

In Montana we call that "air conditioning".

Ok, that's no help. good luck with your fix...

[OleRed66]

Would it be beneficial to weld inside the cab rather than on the outside?? I'm not a good welder, shoot I'm barely a bad welder, but I am a good grinder, and any good grinder can make a bad welder look good!!

[CSS-Registry]

Would it be beneficial to weld inside the cab rather than on the outside?? I'm not a good welder, shoot I'm barely a bad welder, but I am a good grinder, and any good grinder can make a bad welder look good!!

i am not a great welder either but with the sheet metal on these trucks i found they can be very forgiving - if you go slowly and are methodical.

with that said i would weld from the outside. the reason is you can get to the seams easier and then grind the wee out of it easier from the outside. also keep in mind this area will be mostly hidden from direct view by the bed of the truck so it does not need to be perfect.

here is the best technique i have found for welding sheet metal: http://www.cssregistry.com/css/64d100Re ... ir0034.htm



i use only a series of tack welds - i never run a bead of any length. when i make a full pass i walk away and get a drink, cool off and then come out and weld another series of tacks alternating sides to keep heat and distortion to a minimum.

i did a good job on this portion of the dash repair but decided not to use it because of other damage i had a hard time repairing.

anyway, i use a 120 volt Lincoln 135 mig welder with Flux-core wire... nothing too fancy.

Ben

[CSS-Registry]

the section of the cab that is still useable is roughly 31 inches. let me know if you want me to slice it out.

cover the shipping plus $20 for my time and it is yours. i can send a pic if you are still interested.

Ben

[slick]

As mentioned before a replacement section would probably be best. I used a flanging tool on my last patch panel and it came out awesome. One side of the tool makes a slight bend in the metal and the other side punches out holes to spot weld it. You flange both metal pieces you are welding then slide them together after puching the holes for the spot weld. Then they fit together better and you can almost make the seam invisible with little body filler
http://www.redhillsupply.com/MTN7379.htm

[reallylongnickname]

thx for the flanging tool advise. Looks like a specialty air tool.