New Member with New Project

[Wildergarten]

How did the A body 833 fit up for you, are you happy with the shifter location?

With as beefy as the arm on a Hurst of that day was, I can't imagine one couldn't cut and weld an extension on it such that it would feel fine. The boot location might be weird though, half-way back under the seat. Getting that big hydro bell out of there would leave more room for headers too. Would be fun.

[tr1mmer]

@mikeyptv - It will require C- Notching but is currently just clearing the stock frame. One of many mini (?) projects to be completed before it hits the road. The "Roadkill" poly idea went out the window a while ago.

[tr1mmer]

@brikar - the A body A833 is mocked up but I haven't installed the Hurst shifter and stick I bought yet. Need to cut a hole in a pretty flimsy original front floor. I have reproductio front floors but haven't installed them yet. Also have a new lightened flywheel, pressure plate, clutch and hydraulic throw out bearing kit to install as well so the Trans needs come back out.
I did remove the original cab tank and have a Mustang tank to install behind the rear axle. I've decided to go with the Glide bucket seats it seems I've been saving forever for the right project to come along.
I did manage to shorten the 67 Imperial tilt/telescopic column and hook it up to the power rack and pinion before pushing it aside.
With everything I need to do, I took on another project. My neighbor and friend asked me to reupholster the booth seats in his restaurant and I'm about halfway done. Hope to have that done in a few weeks.

[tr1mmer]

@Wildergarten - I saw pics from another owner with same Trans and LA small block showing where the stick comes through the floor with bucket seats. I bought a B body shifter stick I think will work but I can always break out the heat wrench if I need to.

Added:
It was brikar that shared his pics of the A body A833 install.

[tr1mmer]

A few pics:

2192.jpeg (45.16 KiB) Viewed 75 times

[tr1mmer]

The other thing I got done was I freshened up the 67 Charger 8 3/4 rear-end by cutting off the perches, welding new perches on flipped, cleaned and painted the housing, backing plates and drums with a 3:55 489 case Sure Grip and installed it only to pull it back out, swap the center chunk for a 2:94 open and traded it to a friend to get back my original 440 Magnum back for my 67 Charger (long story). Then delivered it to him in CA and helped him install it in his 59 Dodge Sierra wagon he's building with a 440 bolted to a one year only aluminum case automatic with custom cables to use his dash shifter. That's gonna be a cool car!
I then pulled out the 8 3/4 I had pulled out of the shortbed, started the whole rear-end restore process again only I bought custom length conversion axles from Dr Diff, installed the 3:55 Sure Grip and bolted it back in the truck. The Charger rear was too narrow for the truck and it fit his wagon perfectly.

[tr1mmer]

The Charger rear was too narrow. Decided I didn't want to pay for custom wheels and really just want to run old school original 2 piece steel 15" wheels.

[PwrWgnDrvr]

The Charger rear was too narrow. Decided I didn't want to pay for custom wheels and really just want to run old school original 2 piece steel 15" wheels.
1298.jpeg

What are "original 2 piece steel 15" wheels"?

[tr1mmer]

The factory mopar steel wheels from the mid to late 60's in 15". Most run them with the smaller "dog dish" hubcaps. My original wheels wont clear the Wilwood disc brakes I installed. Original disc brake 15" mopar wheels are difficult to find but I just picked up this pair for the front. They need to be stripped and repainted. See pic below.
There are company's that reproduce the disc brake style and they can even be ordered in custom widths and offsets. I will probably order a set later to mount drag radials:
https://thewheelsmith.net/wheel-catalog/mopar-wheels