Crewcab, What's it worth?

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Re: Crewcab, What's it worth?

Postby grb » Sun May 22, 2016 9:45 am

Jims68 wrote:
soopernaut wrote:But most W models don't have those hubs.


were they an option? OR aftermarket?



My guess would be aftermarket. I have never seen them before either.
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Re: Crewcab, What's it worth?

Postby grb » Fri Jul 22, 2016 4:46 pm

Good evening fellas,

Haven't been on in a while since I have been working too much and spending most free time working on the PowerWagon. I have a friend who is a retired 35 year Mopar mechanic with a really nice shop (with lift) in his back yard. He has helped immensely and been really reasonable on his labor. So far here is what has been done:

Oil/Filter Change
Fuel Filter Change
Air Filter Change
Front diff fluid change
Rear diff fluid change
Brakes rebuilt (including master cylinder)
Carb rebuilt
Seat adjuster repaired
Ignition switch repaired
Instrument cluster removed / cleaned / replaced
Front turn signal lenses replaced
Rear backup lenses replaced
Wheel bearings replaced
All U-joints replaced (except PTO u-joints) Will tear into the PTO u-joints when I get around to rebuilding the winch.
New BFG All Terrain 33x10.50 tires

Going into local spring and axle shop for new springs / kingpins? next week. Week after that, the guy that has been helping me is going to tear into the steering box and see what is going on there. Although I have a couple inches of play in the steering wheel, once I got the brakes done and those narrower tires on, she drives much better.


Got some questions:

Electrical system has issues. Fuel gauge does not work. Rear backup lights don't work. For those who have rewired your own trucks did you buy one of the aftermarket harnesses or start from scratch and build your own? Can you clean up the electrical blocks or are there aftermarket ones available?
I have two bent rims. I want to replace all wheels and am looking for a source to find white steel smoothies (or wagon spokes). Problem is, this truck has those big hubs that standard wheels won't fit over. Ask me how I know...

Thanks for any assistance.
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Re: Crewcab, What's it worth?

Postby wally426ci » Mon Jul 25, 2016 4:58 am

Hey Rob, here are my answers ***
-Glad to see the work taking place above. Stoked to see it one of these days.

Got some questions:

Electrical system has issues. Fuel gauge does not work.
***If this is the only gauge that does not work, I would check to see if the tank float has sunk. If the temp gauge is also not working, the fuel gauge serves as the voltage limiter for the gauge cluster and could be fried. I used a solid state IVR3 as the limiter for mine which is very easy to hook-up. You can also look at the technical artlicles here to make one.

Rear backup lights don't work.
***Check the neutral safety switch plug. Someone may have bypassed it. You can also look toward the back of the frame and along the length for any wiring disconnects/damage.

For those who have rewired your own trucks did you buy one of the aftermarket harnesses or start from scratch and build your own? Can you clean up the electrical blocks or are there aftermarket ones available?
***I used a good factory harness and just repaired a few connections and also re-routed my AMP gauge wiring. I cleaned the factory blocks and used dielectric grease and all has been fine for a few years now. (Ben) CSSRegistry used Ron Francis wiring kit I believe. I have seen some use Painless. I personally just like factory diagrams and connections but that is my opinion.

I have two bent rims. I want to replace all wheels and am looking for a source to find white steel smoothies (or wagon spokes). Problem is, this truck has those big hubs that standard wheels won't fit over. Ask me how I know...
***I am not hip to PW wheel interchange.....

Thanks for any assistance.

:salut
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Re: Crewcab, What's it worth?

Postby grb » Fri Jul 29, 2016 4:42 pm

Thanks Wally. Although she still has some issues with the front suspension, I actually got to take her out for a brief ride last weekend. The new narrower and properly inflated tires made a big difference in the way the truck drives.

Fuel gauge is the only one not working, so I'll check the float. I have the next week off so I have some time over the next few days to continue working on her. I am not sure if there is even power to the rear back up lights so I guess that is the first issue to chase down. I was able to find wheels to fit and have them ordered. Can't wait to get her up and running right and on the road.
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Re: Crewcab, What's it worth?

Postby Hobcobble » Sat Jul 30, 2016 8:53 am

Pull the sender wire off and ground it. With the key in the
"on" position, the gauge should peg if it is a sender/float
issue. If it pegs, pull the sender. If the float didn't sink, you
can Ohm test the sender... (+) to sender terminal and (-) to
top of sender housing. By moving the float rod you should
see a change in resistance on the meter. :study :2cents
John
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Re: Crewcab, What's it worth?

Postby grb » Sun Jul 31, 2016 3:13 pm

Hobcobble wrote:Pull the sender wire off and ground it. With the key in the
"on" position, the gauge should peg if it is a sender/float
issue. If it pegs, pull the sender. If the float didn't sink, you
can Ohm test the sender... (+) to sender terminal and (-) to
top of sender housing. By moving the float rod you should
see a change in resistance on the meter. :study :2cents
John



Thanks John, appreciate the tutorial. :salut
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Re: Crewcab, What's it worth?

Postby BuggZ » Sun Apr 02, 2017 11:46 am

I seem to remember seeing those type locking hubs on an old 50s era Willys (Jeep) Wagon many years ago. They are DualMatic hubs and were used on many early Jeeps. Good info at http://www.cj3apage.com/index/Tech_Tips/everything_you_ever_wanted_to_kn.htm. Great looking truck.
So many trucks, so little time (and money)

Looking for a Sweptline or Power Wagon or 75 - 79 Ramcharger/Trailduster 4x4.
76 VW 1303 Cabriolet (not a Swepty but still cool)
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