68 Adventurer gets headers and traction bars

[moparbay]

I started bracket racing the 68 Adventurer and feel it need some upgrades. I got me some headers and 3" exhaust with some flowmaster 40 mufflers. In the process I also fabbed up a set of traction bars to eliminate all that wheel hop. There is a transmission cooler for the 2500 stall converter (I think I should have went with a 2800 or 3000 stall). I still need to paint or powder coat the traction bar.

I have some race footage on tape and I am working on converting it to digital so I can upload it for you guys.

[soopernaut]

A lot of people have problems finding headers that fit their pre-68 trucks. Did you run into problems with the collectors dumping right where the transmission crossmember is? I see you mentioned having to trim a little but it doesn't sound like the major problems others have mentioned. So what make and model headers fit a 68 truck with a 383?

[Hobcobble]

Nice work!
John

[moparbay]

A lot of people have problems finding headers that fit their pre-68 trucks. Did you run into problems with the collectors dumping right where the transmission crossmember is? I see you mentioned having to trim a little but it doesn't sound like the major problems others have mentioned. So what make and model headers fit a 68 truck with a 383?

These are the headers on my truck in the picture.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-7 ... refilter=1

They are Headman Headers part# HED-79220 I had them sand blasted and coated with a High Temp Header coating.

I had to trim the Left Side motor mount broacket (Engine Support bracket) and I had to trim the the very bottom of the crossmember. I will upload better pics tonight.

[moparbay]

A lot of people have problems finding headers that fit their pre-68 trucks. Did you run into problems with the collectors dumping right where the transmission crossmember is? I see you mentioned having to trim a little but it doesn't sound like the major problems others have mentioned. So what make and model headers fit a 68 truck with a 383?

These are the headers on my truck in the picture.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-7 ... refilter=1

They are Headman Headers part# HED-79220 I had them sand blasted and coated with a High Temp Header coating.

I had to trim the Left Side motor mount broacket (Engine Support bracket) and I had to trim the the very bottom of the crossmember. I will upload better pics tonight.

Also, you will need to trim a little more of the crossmember if you are running a RB block as the heads (in turn the headers) will sit almost 3/4" higher... Somthing to think about

[moparbay]

Here are the pictures I promised. Since I knew this truck would never see any off-road use I was not concerned with ground clearance it it shows in the pictures, I only have 7 1/2" at the lowest point at the X Pipe. I was also using 3" mandrel bent pre-made sections of pipe and a X pipe to further complicate things, if you were using 2" or 2 1/2" pipe and left the X Pipe out routing wouldn't be an issue. If I had better equipment (Lift, tube bender, etc..) I could have done a lot better with the design and install.

[69Adventurer]

I to have a 69 Adventurer too with a 413 and I got the same Headers from Summit
and had to trim the same as you on the drivers side motor mount! but the tranny cross member has
about 1/4 to 1/2 clearance just enough for the 3" pipes...Whew that was close
Did you get the X-pipe from summit also?
Nice work it looks good, keep it up

[Hobcobble]

I noticed that the "spanners", which normally
are bolted on the remaining ears of the
bell housing cross member, are not on
your truck.
John

[moparbay]

I to have a 69 Adventurer too with a 413 and I got the same Headers from Summit
and had to trim the same as you on the drivers side motor mount! but the tranny cross member has
about 1/4 to 1/2 clearance just enough for the 3" pipes...Whew that was close
Did you get the X-pipe from summit also?
Nice work it looks good, keep it up

Thanks, I got every thing from summit and the "summit brand" is always worth some savings.

[moparbay]

I noticed that the "spanners", which normally
are bolted on the remaining ears of the
bell housing cross member, are not on
your truck.
John

I am not sure what you are calling "spanners", I did remove a piece of square tube (maybe 1" or 1 1/2") that bolted to the crossmember ears that tied both sides together. It used 2 bolts on either side and you can see the bolts in the pictures. Is that what you are referring to? If not, do you have a picture. I am always up for learning new things about my trucks..

[Hobcobble]

When a pre-'69 truck was built with an automatic
tranny, the manual bell housing cross member is
cut [likely] on the assembly line. In its place, a
"spanner" would be bolted on which would
run under the Loadflite tranny. I have seen at
least two versions of "spanners".....
a)Two pieces of "L" angle iron bolted on the stubs
b)One "C" channel piece bolted on the stubs

The spanner acts as a cross member and
strengthens the forward portion of the
frame.

There are those who say that they wouldn't
bother installing this spanner. There are
those who have mentioned cutting the entire
manual bell cross member out which leaves
one half of the leaf spring perch swinging
in the breeze. I wouldn't recommend either
of these..... I have an auto tranny converted
'68 D100 and I have the spanner in place.

You can read back through posts from those
who, due to various weight or torque issues,
have wound up with cracks in their truck
frames. Maybe it'll happen.... maybe it won't.
I personally take the cautious route myself.
John

[moparbay]

When a pre-'69 truck was built with an automatic
tranny, the manual bell housing cross member is
cut [likely] on the assembly line. In its place, a
"spanner" would be bolted on which would
run under the Loadflite tranny. I have seen at
least two versions of "spanners".....
a)Two pieces of "L" angle iron bolted on the stubs
b)One "C" channel piece bolted on the stubs

The spanner acts as a cross member and
strengthens the forward portion of the
frame.

There are those who say that they wouldn't
bother installing this spanner. There are
those who have mentioned cutting the entire
manual bell cross member out which leaves
one half of the leaf spring perch swinging
in the breeze. I wouldn't recommend either
of these..... I have an auto tranny converted
'68 D100 and I have the spanner in place.

You can read back through posts from those
who, due to various weight or torque issues,
have wound up with cracks in their truck
frames. Maybe it'll happen.... maybe it won't.
I personally take the cautious route myself.
John

Yep, I know exactly what you are talking about now and agree completely with you. The one in my truck was square tube. I have been trying to figure out a way to incorporate it but with the headers in the way the original location is impossible. I have a couple of ideas on how to incorporate another brace in there to help stiffen up the frame (These trucks need all the help they can get). Once I come up with a plan of attack I will share it with everyone.

[MountainMoparRobin]

the simple solution to this is to do what the factory did in the years 69-71, cut the useless mount out if you have an automatic and box it just like the factory's solution was for the added unnecessary mount. In the picture is the NP435 on a 70 factory mounted, with the springs boxed, this is factory, it did take them awhile to figure out they were wasting money on something that wasn't needed

very simple to fix, it opens everything up so you don't have that unneeded mount wasting usuable space

[Hobcobble]

the simple solution to this is to do what the factory did in the years 69-71, cut the useless mount out if you have an automatic and box it just like the factory's solution was for the added unnecessary mount.

Yes. The key is to box the area if those "useless" stubs
are completely removed. A short while ago.... "some"
didn't think it was even necessary to box this area
after removing the "useless" stubs. This leaves half
of the spring perch swinging in the breeze.
John

[moparbay]

the simple solution to this is to do what the factory did in the years 69-71, cut the useless mount out if you have an automatic and box it just like the factory's solution was for the added unnecessary mount. In the picture is the NP435 on a 70 factory mounted, with the springs boxed, this is factory, it did take them awhile to figure out they were wasting money on something that wasn't needed

1970 np435 spring update 001.JPG

very simple to fix, it opens everything up so you don't have that unneeded mount wasting usuable space

Thank you, that will make it alot easier to deal with. I guess I could have looked at my 69 that sits in the same garage (I overlook the simplest things sometimes). Who would have thought the answer would have been that close......

[soopernaut]

So I guess the headers aren't as good of a fit as I thought. They would have hit the spanners if they were in place. There doesn't seem to be a good solution for headers on a pre 69 truck.

[Hobcobble]

So I guess the headers aren't as good of a fit as I thought. They would have hit the spanners if they were in place. There doesn't seem to be a good solution for headers on a pre 69 truck.

Yeah..... the big block headers out there
just don't fit "out of the box". The only
header I've seen thus far to fit the pre-'69
D 100/200 trucks is a small block Hedmann.
Somewhere on this site..... lurks the part number.
John

[fosh69]

... afterthought....

[demulsion]

The only header I've seen thus far to fit the pre-'69 D 100/200 trucks is a small block Hedmann. Somewhere on this site..... lurks the part number. John

It's in my build thread, and now here: HED-79010

Moparbay, that truck looks like a ton of fun. Keep up the good work.

[Hobcobble]

The only header I've seen thus far to fit the pre-'69 D 100/200 trucks is a small block Hedmann. Somewhere on this site..... lurks the part number. John

It's in my build thread, and now here: HED-79010

Moparbay, that truck looks like a ton of fun. Keep up the good work.

Thanks!
John