What to do with old parts

scoutski · Post by **scoutski** » Sun Feb 20, 2005 3:22 pm

It is ready for paint and chrome.

Hoss · Post by **Hoss** » Sun Feb 20, 2005 5:35 pm

You guys give me that million dollar appetite with my 10cent budget.
Nice trailer
Ken

scoutski · Post by **scoutski** » Sun Feb 20, 2005 5:47 pm

If it wasn't for the paint, The most expensive part that I bought for this project is the jack on the front.
I appreciate the complement Ken.
Bill

cudajimmy · Post by **cudajimmy** » Sun Feb 20, 2005 7:39 pm

I saw a short wide swept bed trailer just about at the Nebraska/Kansas state line on the highway going the other way. Thought about offering the guy a nice chuby of dorf trailer bed for trade, but there was no place to turn around.

Post by **cowboy** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:44 am

Bill, looks real good , did you get the T light yet ?

scoutski · Post by **scoutski** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:11 pm

Sure did, check it out...

Thanks, Dave

Post by **cowboy** » Tue Feb 22, 2005 8:11 am

Bill are those red lenes in the backup holes? sure look like it & looks good

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 12:34 am

i love to see it when a great idea is copied. looks good man. whats it look like behind the truck?? what jack did you use, i have been having trouble finding one long enough to fit right with the 3/4 ton axle and springs under mine???????

scoutski · Post by **scoutski** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 7:40 am

I got mine from TSC around $30.00. Then I modified it to accept a 5" wheel. The wheel gives it about 6" to 7" of additional lift. Then I welded a piece of exhaust tubing to the foot that I cut off so that I could use it when I don't want the wheel on it. Both are held on by a 5/16" pull pin.You can see the ring for the pin above the wheel. Thats the foot sitting ontop of the 4x4.
I then welded a piece of expanded metal to the bottom of the V area below the pull bar. ( need to get some pics of this) This I can use to store the wheel and the foot. I have a little cargo net in there to hold things in place.
You are exactly right Cowboy! I figured that I didn't need the backup lights so I just peeled the double backed stickey tape off a couple cheap reflectors drilled them out to match and voila! Oh yea, I wired them into the tail lights.

Now all I need is a decent Swept to pull it with

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 8:38 am

before you go too much furthur check your local laws for home built trailers. around here they require a amber reflector or light on the front side and a red one in the back. might want to get all that hooked up before you go for paint.

i too am gonna make the tongue area a tool box. but im raising the lip about 6 inches, and putting a hinged, lockable lid on it. ought to make it a nice deep box for all my tie straps, and other trailering equiptment.

farmhand66css · Post by **farmhand66css** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 5:52 pm

Looks good, I have the back half of a 68 I was thinking of doing the same with. What is the length of the tongue.

Matt

66patrick · Post by **66patrick** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 7:11 pm

You could use 1968 Mopar car side marker lights on your rig and keep it all Mopar! The round chrome units fit right in and all you need to do is drill the holes!

scoutski · Post by **scoutski** » Wed Feb 23, 2005 7:35 pm

Matt, I got the specs from Trey, below is what he gave me.It is posted in General Topics. I used some steel that I had lying around, for the piece that goes between the frame rails I used 6" channel and for the pull bar I used 2'X 3" rectangular tubing (heavy wall). I bought some reflectors that are a match to the OEM ones that were on the truck.

Trey's Specs.
ok, many have asked for specs, so i figure ill post it for anyone who needs/wants them. the frame was cut 45 inches from the front of the bed. crossbar of 2x3 tubeing was welded in at 15 inches on center from the front of the bed to each frame rail (parallel to bed front). pull bar (goes from crossbar to front to weld in hitch is 30 inches long and made of 1x3 U channel, this is welded in and centered on the cross bar. then, the frame was cut at the top and bottom and bent to meet in the middle at the pull bar and welded. doing it this way assures the frame rails wont come in towards the middle, and youll be dead center with the hitch and pull bar. this works great, the crossbar going in first makes centering everything a lot easier, and adds support to the frame rails when your heating and pounding them into place. the 2" ball hitch is welded to the top of the 1x3 channel with the channel inserted as far as possible into the hitch assembly. and it is backed up underneath with a pice of 2 inch heavy wall pipe welded in from just behind the femal ball socket to just beyond the joint where the frame and pull bar are welded to add even more strength to the 1x3 channel for the heavy tongue loads i may possibly have. also, the length of the tongue from the front of the bed to the center of the ball socket is 45inches. this is long enough to completely jacknife the trailer without hitting the bed of the trailer on the truck bumper. hope this helps for those of you thinking of doing the same. really catches a lot of complements from people who see me on the road. since my 81x site is screwing up, i posted pics at my webshots if you want to see them with descriptions. link is in my signature.
_________________
Trey 69 crew cab short D200
360-np435-dana 60 4.10 rear
wideblock@aol.com
las cruces new mexico
http://community.webshots.com/user/wideblock

Bill

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Fri Feb 25, 2005 11:56 pm

thanks for the post bill, saves me a lot of typing!

so matt, you gonna stripe the trailer like the CSS?