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Off to the stripper

Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 7:54 pm
by pwadventurer
Heading out to kwik strip in allentown for a dip.Should be a 3-4 week turn around
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Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 9:31 pm
by cudajimmy
What's all that white crap?

Posted: Sat Feb 05, 2005 9:43 pm
by wideblock
is that a 300M in the garage?? is it for sale or trade??

In the shed

Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:13 pm
by pwadventurer
Is a 68 300 non letter with 70k miles.Bench buckets column shift no air 440.It also keeps me sane when i need to get out of the house.The white stuff should be gone in about 50 days.(spring time)

Posted: Sun Feb 06, 2005 3:52 pm
by Guest
Wideblock, you live where old cars went to die. :lol: Go up to Cimarron or Raton. All kinds of old stuff virtually anywhere you look. Also try the REZ around Tuba City. Lots of older Mopars to be found across the whole area. Many of them are available, cheap. Just don't expect perfection. You want a real letter car, check out eastern Wa, Idaho, Montana, etc. Maybe the member in Moscow Idaho can see if the private yard north of the liquor store still has anything that would catch your eye. Guy used to have a bunch of mid-50s to mid-70s Mopars. The farmers in the area always had a bunch of Dodge trucks, corporate platform cars, and Hemi or L6 powered pumps, forklifts, generators, etc. Stuff goes cheap when the farms auction off the old stuff. There is a boat collector in Albion Wa that had a couple ChrisCraft runabouts,and a hyper rare Dodge built mahogany runabout. Maybe that would float your boat? :joker Found you a repacement for the crew if you still have to sell it. (Hate to see that truck go, but family is more important than a truck) 66 D200, A318, 4spd, dana 60 w/3.54. Runs alright (smokes on start up), drives out nice. Needs some TLC that you could cure right quick (brake adjustment, clutch adjustment, LOF, the usual used truck stuff). It's a clean work grade truck, used by a local plumbing contractor. Has a ball plate mounted in the bed like a gooseneck, but is over the floor instead of under. Same sized plate underneath as well, looks pretty strong. Same light blue as the crew and your 100 2X. Some areas have been repainted w/Rustoleum baby blue in the last year. Cab floor replaced with angle iron and aluminum diamond plate. $350 takes it home. Won't be there long. He just wants it out of the yard. Shall I offer him a hunnerd bucks and see if he bites?

Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 12:34 pm
by oneowner71
Planning on taking the car down that same path, but it is a rather expensive path round here. Said they'd dip it, then epoxy primer it for about $2000. Said about 2 week turnaround... but that's a lot of money.

Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2005 4:45 pm
by pwadventurer
Kwik strip is getting 5 bills just for the cab because of the nooks and crannies, 4 for the bed,125 for the hood,same for the rad support, 75 for the doors .plus the tail gate.start adding it up ,add some primer and it gets expensive.The parts i have done already,look great,when that epoxy primer goes on it really seals the metal.
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Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 8:46 pm
by motomatt383
glad to see i'm not the only one keeping a stripper employed, and a powder coating facility, LOOKS real good. it will be well worth the effort when its all done,

matt

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 8:55 pm
by 66patrick
I kept a stripper employed once...nothing to do with cars, though! LOL!

Posted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 9:21 pm
by HellBelly
:goodpost

LMAO@Patrick!

Posted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 12:22 pm
by rjmeuer
I need to have mine striped to the metal also. I plan on making my rebuild a long one. It needs to be perfect.

Posted: Mon Apr 04, 2005 3:49 am
by Cageman
When you take it to the stripper, how do you seal the places you cannot paint, you know, all the nooks and crannies. I always wondered that, unless you dip it, it wouldnt get covered, correct?

Posted: Tue Apr 05, 2005 7:54 pm
by pwadventurer
There is this neat product my paint man showed me today. Its a spray in liquid wax that can be sprayed into just about any place you make access to.It drips for a day or so then the film protects the metal.I don't know the temp limits but as long as your headers arn't touching the cab or your not parked over a camp site, it should hold up.