Excedrin Headache (wiring)

[Veriwide]

I have been fighting wiring this, and wiring that since I got "Frank".

Here's a little history, I've shared this before, but I want to give as much info as I can.

:Frank is a 1971 Adventurer SE. He left the factory with a 383 / 727 auto set up. He was converted to 4x4 with 4 speed manual tranny/trnsfer case/axels from a 68 W200. The 383 was replaces with a 440 Mag from a 69 Charger R/T. It was converted to the Mopar electronic ignition system with the 8000 rpm ign. control unit.

I have had problems with the starting, and charging systems, but now it starts great, and seems to charge as well.

Having followed the wiring diagrams for the electronic conversion, and for the charging system with the two field wire alternator, everything seems in order.

I know that at some point before I got the truck it was converted to, then back from, a push button starting system.

Now, what is the issue? It is the driving light/turn signal lights(front and rear).

When I start my engine the driving light/turn signal lights come on and stay on. If I put rpm's to the engine, the lights get brighter until they blow into shards of colored glass.

Yesterday I removed the fuse for the driving light/turn signal lights. I started the engine and those lights still came on. I then proceeded to remove each fuse, then start, until the fuse box was empty. The lights still come on, and stay on, with the start of the engine.

Now, with all fuses out, I can pull on my light switch and the headlights come on. My wipers work. The turn signals, emergency flashers, and horn do not work, which I did expect. I am working alone, with out a garage, so I do not know if the brake lights work.

I can only imagine two places to go from here for investigation, and it is here that I am looking for assistance.

First: a problem with the ignition circut left over from the push button conversion. What sysytems / wires would be affected in this process?

Second: a problem with the turn signal assembly located on the column. I would think a replacement of the unit may be needed.

Has anyone seen anything like this issue before? Should I just give up and go the Painless harness route?

Thanks for your attention in this matter. When The wiring is fixed then We try to find out why "Frank" has to warm up for 15 minutes before the clutch will let me shift into gear.

Patrick

[Seabee]

Do other circuits on Frank N. Truck seem to operate normally? i.e. do the headlights also get rediculously brighter with higher rpm?

It sounds as if the park/signal light circuit is getting unregulated voltage from the alternator. Check the wiring carefully for some wiring scabbed in that would cause such a bypass. I don't think that it would be related to the pushbutton mod, but... people have done some very very strange things with wiring.

The horn/turn signal switch assy can cause some odd behavior if broken just right, but I would think removing the fuse would eliminate that.

[Jeffc]

Turn signals and the brake lights should not work
with the fuse all out.......
that is were I would start, trace your signal and
brake light wires that come out of the columm
and see were they go.

Who knows "why" the push button was installed
for the starter, but I suspect that it was because
someone at sometime had a problem with cooked wires
and/or bad key switch....

If what you find under the dash is a "rats nest"
ether start from scrach with a wire kit or good
used harness.

[Veriwide]

With work and school I have to find 15 min here, and 20 min there, to work on the wiring. Here is the work so far...

Problem...With the start of the engine the tail lights and turn signals come on.

I now have the truck so that only the tail lights come on. To get here I have pulled all fuses from the fuse block, disconected the harness from the light switch, and disconected the steering column harness. It seems that the power entering the system is coming from the rear of the truck somewhere, and I'll start tracing those wires in a couple of days when it quits raining.

In the mean time, I need to inspect my major ground wires. I can not find documentation on their locations, so here's what I am looking for...all major body to frame grounds, frame to block grounds, and component grounds (such as voltage regulator to block) on a 71 (D100) Adventurer SE. Are there any grounds that an auto trans would have that a manual trans would not, or vice versa?

Here in Boone the gas prices and temperatures are starting to fall. I need Frank running before the snow starts to fall as well.

Thanks for the help.

Patrick

[Jeffc]

Factory grounds were petty simple in these trucks.

Batter to engine, should bolt to lower area of
engine on the right side of block (looking from the
front).

Engine to firewall, should be strap from rear of
engine (often bolted to intake man) to the firewall
using a voltage regulator bolt.

Ground from insturment cluster to fire wall, white
wire from cluster to firewall; also fuel tank sender
to fuel supply line strap.

That is about it for factory.

Cab bolts provide ground to frame, bed bolts provide
ground to frame.
Trans is grounded by bolts to engine.

After factory grounds include cab to frame, bed to frame, front clip to frame. These were often added
post factory when needed. As rust builds over the years the bolts holding things together and ground is
lost.

With everthing out of the fuse block and it is not doing the "problem"... I would take a good look
at the wires running from the signal switch, down
the column, but you got one that is rubbed bare....

[duracell]

don't know if any one asked but do you have trailer harness on the truck? if so check them

[Veriwide]

I can't belive I found it. A tail light bucket. Actually one stinkin' spring clip that holds the bucket screws to the body. I am missing one.

Last night I pulled the buckets to inspect their wires, and all seemed fine. Once I had replaced the buckets, I started him, and for the first time the tail lights did not light.

Today, I pulled the lights and used my Dremmell to clean the screws, coated them with a thin layer of dielectric grease, and replaced them. Truck starts, no lights. Then I reconnected the column/turnsignal harness, the light switch, and all the fuses. Truck starts, no lights. Holy crap, have I found it?

Turn signals work fine, emergency flashers, parking lights, headlights, and taillights, all work correctly. The only thing I have left to try is reving the engine. After putting a little gas to the engine, I see the ammeter spike, and I know the lights are blown.

I replace the front turn signals and the taillight bulbs. Truck starts, now the lights are back to the original condition, running. I go tighten the screw that is missing its spring clip, now the lights are off. Thank God, and you guys.

That clip was missing before I bought the truck, and have been fighting this issue for almost three years. I cannot remember being this happy.

This makes for a great six weeks. I got married, went on our honeymoon (if we weren't already sold on Boone, NC we'd be moving to Frisco, CO. We loved it.), I paid off all my credit card debt, and now this.

I cant belive I found it.

[MountainMoparRobin]

Yes Frisco is nice

[Jeffc]

sometimes it's just the simple stuff that gets us
the worst....
cool it's working now...