Jeffc alternator advise

Blue67 · Post by **Blue67** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 12:19 pm

66 D100, poly 318. Getting ready for the electronic distributor. First Iâ€™m putting in an isolated field alternator and electronic regulator from an 85 B300. Would it be a good idea to put a circuit breaker between the alternator and amp gauge? Between the starter relay and the amp gauge? Both? If so what size breaker(s)? Or just hook the old alternator wire to the new alternator and let it all run thru the amp gauge?
Lots of confusing info out there. All advice is welcome. Thanks everyone.
Using this diagram of Jeffâ€™s as a guide. As always Jeff's tech stuff is great help. http://imageevent.com/jeffc/techstuff2e ... =4&s=0&z=2

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 4:16 pm

both mine are run thru stock wireing, no breakers in anywhere. ones a 66 with full EI the other is a 65 with petronix. both running dual field alts and newer regs. one wired jeffs way, one wired my way, both work LOL

Blue67 · Post by **Blue67** » Tue Aug 29, 2006 9:04 pm

Thanks Trey
I'm not sure what you mean by your way and Jeff's way though. How big of a fire do I get if I just take the wire off the old alternator and put it on the new alternator and wire the regulator by Jeff's diagram?

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 2:13 am

As long as you stay with a 75amp alt or less, no
real need for brakers. The problem begins if you run a
larger alt and if you use a lot of amp's.

These trucks all came with 35amp alts from the factory
till around 69, after that 80 to 100 was a common option. And in there time, 35amps, was enough to
handle most applications.

As a replacement the 75 is just fine and is often
what you get across the counter at the parts store
anyway. Power will get a little thin if your
running air, a big sound system and all your lights
at the same time (in other words, your useing everything your alt can put out, that is when your putting your
system at risk).
I have been running stock systems for many, many, years in
a number of differant Mopars since 1975 and have never lost a alt gauge.......

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 4:22 am

Just so you know I have the granddaddy of them all on my truck 120amp and no breaker to amp gage it will only put out what the regulator allows it to, This is the Classic Mopar Alternator I have enough to power the house when the electricity goes out, need a jump, I can charge your battery fast

Blue67 · Post by **Blue67** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:10 am

OK. I'll just take the wire off the old alternator and put it on the new alternator and wire the regulator by Jeff's diagram? Thanks for the help.

Website · Post by **wideblock** » Wed Aug 30, 2006 8:30 pm

what i meant by my way. ones wired to jeffc's print with the new reg. the crew cab however still uses the stock reg (one wire) and the second field wire is just groundeed to the block.

Blue67 · Post by **Blue67** » Thu Aug 31, 2006 9:04 pm

Thanks for the advice. The people on this forum are some of the best in the world and you are appreciated.
I plan to wire the regulator by Jeff's diagram and hope for the best. Don't have a clue what the output is for the alternator from the 85 B350 (I think. It was a long day at the yard)
If it doesn't burn up (Don't really expect it to) I'll try to get the electronic igniton in this weekend. Also by Jeff's tech pictures.
Old school thought "One change at a time" That way if it all goes gunny bagged I only have one thing to chase down at a time.
Stay tuned next episode is a Carter BBD.

Blue67 · Post by **Blue67** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 7:32 pm

All righty then. Put on the isolated field alternator and electronic regulator from an 85 B300. Charged OK by the gauge.
Put on the electronic distributor and ICU etc. Timed to between 5 and 10 BTDC. Old gauge, older eyes. Runs a lot better.
The alt gauge does jump up and down. Doesn't go above the middle charge mark just not steady needle. Any cause for alarm????
Thanks to all the experts on this forum.

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:15 pm

needle should move, sometimes below the center mark, sometimes above> just depends on engine rpm and power use.
normal to drop below the center if low engine rpm
and heavy power load, then swing past center
to the plus side to replace the used power used
from the battery.
More power used from the battery the longer it will stay well past center + side, when battery is fully charged, needle should stay just past center to the + side.

But should not pulse, or jump, like your old points
system. Needle should swing fairly smooth unless
your turning on something like lights.

Blue67 · Post by **Blue67** » Sun Sep 03, 2006 8:51 pm

OK Now I'm concerned. I thought it should be smooth but it does pulse. Maybe about 1/8 to 1/4 inch needle swing every second or two. No electrical load except engine. Thought it might be junk yard alternator out in the weather. Brushes gunked up??? Drove only about 6 miles since putting it on. Didn't seem to change anything.
When installing it I ground the firewall down to bare metal and put ground strap under regulator to firewall bolt. Ground strap runs to block under new coil.
Turn on headlights it still pulses but just a little higher on the alt gauge. All parts are not new but from the wrecking yard.
Maybe need a Napa new voltage regulator????

Jeffc · Post by **Jeffc** » Mon Sep 04, 2006 11:28 am

Just because it's a easy way to do it, just run it
to the parts store and have them hook up the tester.....
they should do it for free..... in hopes of selling something.. see what their tester says.

As long as it is staying to the + side at least it
is charging. Double check your wire were you made
your mod's, be sure the contections are good.

Disco · Post by **Disco** » Mon Sep 04, 2006 2:47 pm

Are your belts tight? When I first got my beast running after the new voltage regulator and electronic distributor the belts were a little loose and the needle bounced up and down as you described as the belts slipped on the alternator. I tightened it up and no more needle bounce.

PwrWgnWalt · Post by **PwrWgnWalt** » Tue Sep 05, 2006 7:59 pm

I ran a stock alternator (35 amp) on my '64 W200 with a 360 (w/ Mopar Electronic Ignition) for a decade & 50,000 miles... amp meter always jumped a little, & really vibrated when the heater blower, headlights, and wipers were all going at once!
I finally put on a 60 amp alternator, thinking that would solve it... it didn't. Neither did another voltage regulator or the like.
At idle, lights would dim, wipers slow, blower slow... but at speed, everything always worked just fine.
I think there was a long dissertation about this a few months ago on this site, and the one thing I never tried was replacing the ignition switch (which seemed to solve one of the writers' ammeter problem).

PwrWgnWalt

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 4:13 am

PwrWgnWalt,
I met Jim Patterson at the Mopar Car Show we had here, and he mentioned you a couple of times

By the way my needle with the 120 amp does no jumping whatsoever, when it charges, right after start, it shows a steady charge for about 5 seconds then goes back to slightly above 0 and stays, turning on light will get a one shot flicker, turn signals do nothing to it no movement, but thats about all the electical, except in winter the heater, but that doesn't flicker it either.

Blue67 · Post by **Blue67** » Wed Sep 06, 2006 8:22 am

Got another 30-40 miles on it since my last post. Still jumps occasionally but usually sits smoothly on the center mark. I'm thinking it might just have been dirty from sitting out in the yard. Anyway thanks for all the help. Think I'll just drive it awhile and see how it goes.

Sweptline.ORG

Jeffc alternator advise

Jeffc alternator advise

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