timing

Wiring, lights, heater controls, anything electrical..
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steven
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timing

Post by steven »

When my LA 318 idles, I check the timing with a light and the mark I made on it doesnt stay in one spot, same at half idle or full. It sort of jumps around. Is the vacuum timing advance thingy plugged up, partially blocked, shot, or what? Anybody else have this problem, or is this normal, I would assume it isnt. :thinking
Thanks

Steve
1967 Dodge D200 5.7 HEMI/5speed
1971 Dodge Challenger #'s 383/727
1974 Dodge D600 318 5+2
2003 Ram 2500 Cummins HO

JimE
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Post by JimE »

Did you tighten down the distributor hold clamp? As you increase rpm it should go up if the vacuum advance is working properly. Jim
03 Hemi Ram 2500

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PwrWgnWalt
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Post by PwrWgnWalt »

Steve;

Not knowing anything about how much "mileage" that 318 has, or it's lineage, I'll offer this:

A 'jumpy' timing mark is often indicative of a worn timing chain.

If it has (or more appropriately - "HAD") the dreaded "nylon covered teeth" on the cam gear, this is likely the root of the problem.
Over time, these nylon teeth became brittle with exposure to oil, acids, and heat. I have yet to see one intact - except in the pictures. The metal underneath is usually ok, but by the nylon chipping away, it leaves the timing chain sloppy as a ... well, you know what I mean.

I don't profess to know when they used these, just know they did. I suspect it was after (or close to the end of when) these trucks were minted, but if your engine is a later year, or ever had it's timing chain replaced... this might be it. Could also be that the stock metal gears and chain are just worn.

Of course, the "no advance" symptoms you tell about are a separate issue and could be a bunch of other stuff, too. Make sure the vacuum can on the distributor is working (if you don't have a little handheld vacuum tester, have someone put vacuum to it while you read the timing mark). And make sure it's in the right Carb port! Check the easy (read: non-invasive) things first - like vacuum leaks, carb mounting, etc. Spraying some engine starter fluid at key points while the engine is running (and cold yet) is one good way.

BTW - the timing marks usually stabilized some at higher rpm's.

PwrWgnWalt :usa
1971 W200: green, built 360/NP435 4-spd, daily driver, 4.10 gears
1971 D100: "Dude" Super Banana Yellow, 318/727
1970 D100: Adventurer Sport, Red, 318/727, AC, pb, extra fuel tanks, and aluminum tailgate trim - all factory original.
1970 D200: light blue, 383/NP435 4-speed, 4.10 gears
1970 D200: Crewcab, brown, 318/727, pb, short Utiline box, Dana 60 (rear), 4.10 ratio gears
1969 W200: Crewcab, yellow, 440/435 4-speed, pb, short Utiline box, HD Dana 44 (front), Dana 60 (rear) 4.88 gears
1969 D100: Adventurer, brown, 383/727, pb, extra fuel tanks
1969 D100: Adventurer, medium blue, LA-318/727
1966 W200: Green, A-318/NP435 4-speed, NP201 Trxfr Case, 4.10 gears Powr Lok rear
1965 D200: Crewcab, turquoise, A-318/727 dash shift, Sweptline box
1964 W200: Green, A-318/NP435 4-speed, NP201 Trxfr Case, 4.10 gears Powr Lok rear

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steven
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Post by steven »

Yes I did tighten the clamp. It does advance, but its just jumpy. The motor has 90k on it, original, so it very well could be the chain and sprockets. What should the timing be set at? Should it be set at low idle or high? Thanks for the responses.

Steve
1967 Dodge D200 5.7 HEMI/5speed
1971 Dodge Challenger #'s 383/727
1974 Dodge D600 318 5+2
2003 Ram 2500 Cummins HO

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duracell
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Post by duracell »

could a worn distributer be a cause as well
as always and sometimes not,steve

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