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So my coil is starting to burn out on my 1968 D-100 318LA and I was going to get a replacement coil. There is a questionable external condenser that attaches to the coil + side (wire is all stiff and cracking). Does anyone have a part number for that? I can't seem to find it online. I always thought that condenser was for suppressing "Radio static". But now I wonder.

Anyway, I'm just going to replace the coil with the "Standard" OEM coil, which leads me to, I have another question... they list TWO coils. One is a UC12T and another UC12, but I can't figure out WHAT the difference between the two? Two different prices too!

Please don't try and talk me into buying ACCEL or any of the like. I am just staying with OEM parts. THANKS!!

Nevermind!

After MORE research, I found that that IS a radio suppressor on the coil and not a condenser.


From the Standard products website:

Standard ® T-Series is a
competitively priced line
containing some of the most
popular part numbers to help
you meet your market needs.
The Standard® T-Series offering
represents two-thirds of the
total engine management
line. Standard® T-Series is a
fit whenever a commercially
acceptable product is called for.

I've never had a coil fail. The only instance I've ever need to replace one is when a previous servicer lost a terminal nut, 10-32, and replaced it with a 10-24, stripping the threads.

I don't think I had a bad coil either. The T series is the economy series. The other is more like oem. Their Blue Streak line UC12X which usually has brass, copper and better materials. Your stock ignition probably doesn't care what coil. Craig

seen a few oil filled coils fail
a bad condenser can fry a coil too
not sure when they went to epoxy coils

I've had a couple of coils fail due to leaking oil. One on my JD140 Garden Tractor it would cause the tractor to misfire and quit running after it got hot. My 68 Dodge had a erratic misfire and was acting like points or condenser so I got new of both of those. So... I put on new wires because I saw arcing on them in the dark. STILL misfiring... swapped the cap and rotor with two used parts. I had pulled all the plugs out and they looked decent... but I cleaned them and made sure the gap was good and reinstalled. It still would give misfires so I took the coil from my Roadrunner and put it on the Dodge and is seems to run smoother now. Also, starts right up and idles really good and smooth.

Thanks Jims68 ...

My old John Deere 112 quits when hot also...
so I will try a new coil...
in the spring...
it doesn't get too hot throwing snow...
-23 C this morning.

mopar wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 03, 2022 9:40 am

Thanks Jims68 ...

My old John Deere 112 quits when hot also...
so I will try a new coil...
in the spring...
it doesn't get too hot throwing snow...
-23 C this morning.

I ordered a coil "specific" for my Kohler engine. I'm not sure what difference it makes with different 12V coils, but mine is for the Kohler engine that I have. I no longer have the original 14HP Kohler, but now I have a 16HP Kohler K301 in my JD. BRRR...... Yeah... that's a bit chilly! I never used mine for snow. Well... that's because I don't have any snow thrower or blade attachments for it.

I ordered a coil "specific" for my Kohler engine.

Thanks... I will see about a "specific" Kohler coil from the small engine shop I deal with.

mopar wrote: ↑

Sat Dec 03, 2022 11:08 am

I ordered a coil "specific" for my Kohler engine.

Thanks... I will see about a "specific" Kohler coil from the small engine shop I deal with.

I should mention that my JD is a points/condenser engine and NOT a Magneto.

Oh, no, that had not occurred to me.
We do have both types of Kohlers here, but the JD 112 IS points and condenser style.
Thanks, again.

I had purchased a used John Deere 314, w/14 hp Kohler, that idled extremely rough. The throttle shaft holes, in the main body, were so worn that an excessive amount of air was leaking past them. Found a kit with bushings for the main body and a new throttle shaft. A night & day difference.