Does the fuel gauge ground when installed into the metal gauge cluster housing?
Or
Does it need to shielded from grounding out when installed into the metal gauge cluster housing?
Thanks
Greg
1967 Dodge D100 Fuel Gauge
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PIRATEUSAF
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- City: Tallahassee
- State: FL
-
PIRATEUSAF
- Sweptline.ORG Member
- Posts: 9
- Joined: Mon Jun 13, 2022 12:03 pm
- City: Tallahassee
- State: FL
Re: 1967 Dodge D100 Fuel Gauge
Problem solved.
From the top…
Gas gauge housing must be grounded to instrument cluster “housing”.
1. Brush “liquid tape” lightly around base of all three poles.
2. Custom cut thin nylon washer into the shape of a square and insert a washer for each pole.
3. Insert gauge into mounting site. Match up the three holes.
4. Slip the nylon washers as described above over each pole.
5. MAKE 100% CERTAIN THE THREE POLES DO NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER HOUSING!!!!
6. Insert a fiber washer over each of the three poles.
7. Place nut on each of the three poles …. A..I..S
and tighten appropriately.
8. Bench test!!!!!
9. With a 12 volt battery ground the instrument cluster housing with the negative lead… and connect the positive lead to the “I” pole. With voltmeter… confirm 12 volts at the “I” pole.
10. THIS IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT!!!!
Now place the positive lead on your voltmeter to the “A” post….. this post should be reading 5 volts!!!
Additionally…. Use a test light next….. ground the negative lead to the instrument cluster housing …. BIG TIME IMPORTANT STEP NEXT…. With your test light… touch the tip of the test light to the “A” pole… THE TEST LIGHT SHOULD NOW BE BLINKING OFF and ON …THIS IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL.
The original factory gas gauge has an internal voltage limiter inside the gauge. This voltage limiter reduces the incoming 12 volts down to 5 volts.
The gas gauge depends on operating off of 5 volts only.
IF YOUR TEST LIGHT IS NOT BLINKING THEN THE VOLTAGE LIMITER IN THE GAS GAUGE IS BAD.
From the top…
Gas gauge housing must be grounded to instrument cluster “housing”.
1. Brush “liquid tape” lightly around base of all three poles.
2. Custom cut thin nylon washer into the shape of a square and insert a washer for each pole.
3. Insert gauge into mounting site. Match up the three holes.
4. Slip the nylon washers as described above over each pole.
5. MAKE 100% CERTAIN THE THREE POLES DO NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE INSTRUMENT CLUSTER HOUSING!!!!
6. Insert a fiber washer over each of the three poles.
7. Place nut on each of the three poles …. A..I..S
and tighten appropriately.
8. Bench test!!!!!
9. With a 12 volt battery ground the instrument cluster housing with the negative lead… and connect the positive lead to the “I” pole. With voltmeter… confirm 12 volts at the “I” pole.
10. THIS IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT!!!!
Now place the positive lead on your voltmeter to the “A” post….. this post should be reading 5 volts!!!
Additionally…. Use a test light next….. ground the negative lead to the instrument cluster housing …. BIG TIME IMPORTANT STEP NEXT…. With your test light… touch the tip of the test light to the “A” pole… THE TEST LIGHT SHOULD NOW BE BLINKING OFF and ON …THIS IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL.
The original factory gas gauge has an internal voltage limiter inside the gauge. This voltage limiter reduces the incoming 12 volts down to 5 volts.
The gas gauge depends on operating off of 5 volts only.
IF YOUR TEST LIGHT IS NOT BLINKING THEN THE VOLTAGE LIMITER IN THE GAS GAUGE IS BAD.