New Ignition Switch Wiring

[Stubs68]

Hi all. I am dealing with a original Dodge Sweptline ignition switch that has the ING2 terminal for resistor bypass as well as other terminals that may or may not be needed with my new harness and my new electronic ignition set up. After many months or work my truck now has electronic ignition, MSD ready-to-run distributor with built-in ignition module (control box not required), no ballast resistor (deleted), no voltage regulator and a 3-wire internal regulated distributor. I believe some of the other accessories such as the heater blower motor and the wiper switch were originally powered through the Sweptline ignition switch. So..... again, I don't think I need all the original ignition switch terminals but not sure how to wire the ones I do need?

I would like to keep my Chrysler key core and use a new updated switch (as recommended by the wiring harness manufacturer). Does anyone know if I can keep my original key core and use it with an updated switch? Or..... only use the terminals on the original switch that I need. Either way I need to figure out what those are.

Obviously the old switch has:
ACC
ST
IGN1
IGN2
BAT
G

The wiring instructions for my new harness only has the following terminals on the ignition switch:
ACC
IGN
BAT
SOL

Thanks again. Not sure what I would do without the knowledge of the members on this site and your willingness to help!!!

[Wildergarten]

I would like to keep my Chrysler key core and use a new updated switch (as recommended by the wiring harness manufacturer). Does anyone know if I can keep my original key core and use it with an updated switch? Or..... only use the terminals on the original switch that I need. Either way I need to figure out what those are.

As I plan some high-powered work lights and other accessories, I'm a big fan of redoing the entire high-current loop to the alternator, firewall studs and all, then running a fat conductor to a new marine style fuse block and thence to a Bosch style relay body. That way I can put all the flashers, relays, and such in the same place. I'll be using the 69+ firewall connector body with the Packard style lugs as they're good for 30A, but almost all the high-current wiring will be on the engine compartment side of the firewall. So there are some wilder and crazier ideas for you.

[Stubs68]

Just adding to my original post with some graphics that may assist in getting my answer. Here is the 1968 ignition switch I have:

The attachment My_Starter_Switch_2.jpg is no longer available

Also see Wiring diagram that came with my kit attached below.

So, where do I connect the wires identified above from the new harness to my existing?

- 12V Battery wire (10 gauge red)
- Ignition SW Accessory (brown)
- Ignition Feed (pink)

Some are saying that I no longer need the IGN2 terminal and I may want to jump the ING1 and ING2 together. I think the original purpose of the ING2 was to bypass the ballast resistor and provide spark to the ignition coil?

We can go round and round on what the original purpose was but the issue at hand is what do I do with the new electric system that does not have all the old intricacies and how do I wire the new harness to the old ignition switch without inadvertently burning something up? I really do think my problem is that I keep wanting to revert back to the 1968 Dodge wiring setup when I really should just connect everything as instructed with the new harness and move on. But would like to use my old ignition switch.

Basically need to know what wires from the kit connect to which terminals on the 1968 Dodge W100 truck ignition switch. Also would like to know if I need to look at anything else from the old 1969 setup that may throw a wrench in the new wiring.

Keep in mind that the truck has been completely re-wired using the kit and includes electronic ignition, MSD Ready-to-Run distributor with built in ignition control module, a 3-wire internally regulated alternator, and a bussbar jumper from the alternator to the starter relay. I no longer have a ballast resistor, external voltage regulator or amp gauge. Any help you can provide is very appreciated.

[Stubs68]

Here is the wiring diagram mentioned in the post above that came with the new harness kit. Would not attached to former post?

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Connect Ign 1 and 2 together then wire as shown. If they aren't jumpered, there will be no spark while cranking.

[Stubs68]

Thanks PwrWgnDrvr. You are the second person that has mentioned jumping IGN1 and IGN2. Sounds like that may be what to do. To confirm the other wiring on the diagram I would then connect the red "12V Battery" wire to the BAT terminal, the pink "ignition feed" wire to the jumped IGN1 / IGN2 terminals and the brown "ignition SW Accessory" wire to the ACC terminal.

Do I use the ST or GRD terminals?

[PwrWgnDrvr]

Yes, the ST terminal goes to the starter solenoid, unless u plan to push start the truck.

[Stubs68]

Great. Thank you. Getting closer. So I need to go back out and look at my wiring this weekend to jog my memory. The only terminal left on the relay is the "I"?

[Wildergarten]

Hi all. I am dealing with a original Dodge Sweptline ignition switch that has the ING2 terminal for resistor bypass as well as other terminals that may or may not be needed with my new harness and my new electronic ignition set up. After many months or work my truck now has electronic ignition, MSD ready-to-run distributor with built-in ignition module (control box not required), no ballast resistor (deleted), no voltage regulator and a 3-wire internal regulated distributor. I believe some of the other accessories such as the heater blower motor and the wiper switch were originally powered through the Sweptline ignition switch. So..... again, I don't think I need all the original ignition switch terminals but not sure how to wire the ones I do need?

All of the answers to the questions you are asking can (and should) be deduced from the wiring diagrams in the factory manual. There are differences in how some options are wired, wire colors, etc. from year to year.
You can get one on eBay here: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... l&_sacat=0

[Roxyflash]

Ignition 2 let’s the ballast be bypassed to get 12 volts to coil so with new ignition and no ballast you shouldn’t need ignition 2

[pwadventurer]

Ignition 2 let’s the ballast be bypassed to get 12 volts to coil so with new ignition and no ballast you shouldn’t need ignition 2

Ignition 1 drops out when cranking, 1 & 2 need to be jumped.