Alternator wiring

[Stubs68]

Thanks to all who have replied. I think I am starting to understand the NSS and how to wire it in or how to just ground it. Much of my confusion has been caused due to the new wiring harness which eliminates most of the dodge wiring schematics. I do have a manual transmission that has 2 prongs on it and I believe this may not be the NSS and as mentioned. After reading the reply's to my post I think these prongs are to be used to wire in the reverse brake lights. So that is the new mystery? How do I wire in the reverse brake lights with my new harness? I will be going back over your comments on this and I guess I will be calling the manufacture this week with follow-up that questions. Again, thank you for your help on this topic!

I am also dealing with a dodge sweptline ignition switch that has the ING2 terminal for resistor bypass as well as other terminals that may or may not be needed with the new harness and my new electronic ignition set up. I have electronic ignition, MSD ready-to-run distributor with built-in ignition module (control box not required), no ballast resistor (deleted) and a 3-wire internal regulated distributor. So..... again, I don't think I need all the original ignition switch terminals?

I would like to keep my Chrysler key core and use a new switch (as recommended by the wiring harness manufacturer) or only use the terminals on the original switch that I need. Either way I need to figure out what those are.

Obviously the old switch has:

ACC
ST
IGN1
IGN2
BAT
G

The wiring instructions for my new harness only has the following terminals on the ignition switch:

ACC
IGN
BAT
SOL

Also posting this to the "general electrical" forum. Thanks again for your continued assistance.

[pwadventurer]

Either way I need to figure out what those are.

Obviously the old switch has:

ACC:wiper switch, switched side of fuse block, fuel gauge
ST: starter relay
IGN1: ballast resistor "run" side
IGN2: ballast resistor "start" side
BAT: battery feed in
G: low pressure brake sender/ indicator lamp

The wiring instructions for my new harness only has the following terminals on the ignition switch:

ACC: wiper, fuel gauge, fuse block etc.
IGN: distributor, alternator
BAT: battery feed in
SOL: starter relay

[Stubs68]

Ahhhh. So I thought that Dodge used the ACC terminal on the Ignition switch to provide direct power to the wiper switch, switched side of fuse block, fuel gauge and possibly the heater fan motor? In my new wiring most of that goes through the fuse block but if that does not work I may go back to using the ACC to power the wiper motor.

[pwadventurer]

Ahhhh. So I thought that Dodge used the ACC terminal on the Ignition switch to provide direct power to the wiper switch, switched side of fuse block, fuel gauge and possibly the heater fan motor?

The heater goes through the switched side of fuse block, as well as the turn signal flasher, horn, and radio. The wiper and fuel gauge go through the ignition switch. The wiper switch and fuel gauge are protected by the circuit breaker on the wiper switch.

In my new wiring most of that goes through the fuse block but if that does not work I may go back to using the ACC to power the wiper motor.

I'm sure the new fuse block has a wiper fuse.

edit to add, the back up lamps go through the ignition switch as well, not sure what side of circuit breaker its on.

[Wildergarten]

edit to add, the back up lamps go through the ignition switch as well, not sure what side of circuit breaker its on.

I recently found out the hard way that my backup lamps are on the ACC side of the switch. The clue was a dead battery.

[pwadventurer]

I'm surprised, more commonly would be the brake pedal hanging low causing dead battery, brake pedal switch is hot at all times.

[hmaynord]

catching up after several months. Stubbs68, what company made your kit? I think it would be helpful for other folks to know, because it sounds like something to avoid. Company should provide instructions for the basic questions you asked, or be able to explain over the phone.

Extra at no charge. I put in a Ron Francis kit. Their first rule was ignore the FSM. Their instructions suffered because some of details for 1 group of components conflicted with details for another group. Some of that is unavoidable, given the various options one can choose. But what their advertising promised, and what they delivered in my case, was prompt telephone explanation. (If they can explain it to me, they can explain it to anybody.) In some cases this included staying on the phone and doing tests on the vehicle. That said, it irks me that their expensive fan controller still doesn't work correctly, but that's another story.

[Wildergarten]

I do have a manual transmission that has 2 prongs on it and I believe this may not be the NSS and as mentioned

No. That is for the back-up lights.

[Stubs68]

hmaynord,

so American Auto Wire provided the kit. In all fairness it is a good kit and good company with on-line and phone support. My main issue with any aftermarket kit is that if you are not using a direct replacement kit (which there are very few if any for sweptlines) you need to forget about trying to retrofit existing wiring to match the vehicle wires, diagram and instruments. I tried to make the old dodge stuff work with the new wire kit and it just did not work. Better off to just junk the old and replace with new wires, new instructions and new thoughts on how your vehicle will be wired with the new kit. Once I figured that out the wiring went very well and now works very well. Not bashing dodge wiring or how they did things back then, granted it was 1968 but when you add new components such as disi, distributor, coil, headlights and update your vehicle from the 1960's its sometimes better to just go with the new and not try to make the old work with the new. Hope that helps.

[hmaynord]

good deal. main thing is you got it worked out.

[marklein]

Here's how I would wire the backup lights. Use a standard relay, use the 2 prong switch on the trans for the ground in the relay. Run one of the 2 wires to ground, the other to the the ground terminal on the relay. Use switched power to the relay, then the out wire from the relay to the backup lights.