Kelsey Hayes brake controller

[63d100sixer]

My ‘68 has a really old hydraulic brake controller.

There are 3 wires off the back of it. Black, Blue, and Red. Red is tied into the brake light switch. Blue goes out the cab and out towards the rear. The black is not hooked up. It had a connector that looks like it makes it a ground.

As far as I can tell, everything works as it should. The lever moves in conjunction with the pedal.

My instinct says that is not a ground and that it “should” be a constant power wire(?)

Otherwise something is wrong because power comes out of it when the brakes are applied.

Can someone confirm that it SHOULD be a 12v constant and not a ground?

Or maybe I am wrong, red is constant, blue goes out back, and black goes to the switch?

The wiring is a mess in this truck, and I’d like for the brake controller to work for this trip.

Thanks in advance!!

[dodgeboykim]

Remove it. Tied into hydraulic system of brakes. New controllers are much better. That old controller is a PITA to set up when changing trailers.

[WD]

I pulled and junked one like that years ago. Just an extra place for air to enter the system.

[EGroscup]

I have one on my Studebaker by choice and like it. I have seen far too many vehicles with destroyed brakes from a failed electronic controller. Give me simple and reliable anytime. Black is power in, blue is out to the trailer and red is for the brake lights. The knob should turn in and out to set the sensitivity to get the right amount of trailer braking. If memory serves, clockwise on the knob decreases trailer braking, ccw increases. Wire it in and use a test light to verify that you are getting power out the blue wire as you move the lever. It should get progressively brighter as you move the lever.

[dodgeboykim]

I have one on my Studebaker by choice and like it. I have seen far too many vehicles with destroyed brakes from a failed electronic controller. Give me simple and reliable anytime. Black is power in, blue is out to the trailer and red is for the brake lights. The knob should turn in and out to set the sensitivity to get the right amount of trailer braking. If memory serves, clockwise on the knob decreases trailer braking, ccw increases. Wire it in and use a test light to verify that you are getting power out the blue wire as you move the lever. It should get progressively brighter as you move the lever.

I find that actually very funny as I have been using electronic brake actuators for OH close to 30 years and tow 2 different trailers with electric brakes regularly. Had a controller fail and didn't work at all, But never seen what you describe. Heading out on a 2000 mile trip this week pulling one of my electric brake tandem trailers. My guess is operator error as many do not know how to properly adjust brake controls.

[Kaegi]

I have one on my Studebaker by choice and like it. I have seen far too many vehicles with destroyed brakes from a failed electronic controller. Give me simple and reliable anytime. Black is power in, blue is out to the trailer and red is for the brake lights. The knob should turn in and out to set the sensitivity to get the right amount of trailer braking. If memory serves, clockwise on the knob decreases trailer braking, ccw increases. Wire it in and use a test light to verify that you are getting power out the blue wire as you move the lever. It should get progressively brighter as you move the lever.

I like the hydraulic type. never seen one fail. only had one myself but worked on many dozens of trucks that did and those were never a problem.