Anyone have any leads on new headlight switch plugs/connectors? This would be a 7 blade female plug that goes directly to the headlight switch. I am only able to find 9 terminal plugs including one for $100 that claims to be 7 terminal, but whose photo shows 9 terminals.
Will the 9 terminal work? I’ve been trying to search for A body stuff as they used the same DS165 switch.
I am getting no juice to my running lights and have noticed a lot of play in my factory plug, hoping to resolve this without having to resolder the old plug with its broken tabs and frail connections.
Headlight Switch Female Plug
- Grodr625
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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Headlight Switch Female Plug
1964 S400 318 poly 4 speed - Linda aka Big Booty Judy
Previous swepties:
1968 D100 318, Hardworking Herbert
1966 D100 318 poly 4 speed - Ginger/Sancha/CrucesCruiser
https://stavisaves.wordpress.com/
Previous swepties:
1968 D100 318, Hardworking Herbert
1966 D100 318 poly 4 speed - Ginger/Sancha/CrucesCruiser
https://stavisaves.wordpress.com/
- Grodr625
- Sweptline.ORG Member
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- Joined: Wed May 06, 2009 1:37 pm
- City: Seattle
- State: WA
- Location: PNW
Re: Headlight Switch Female Plug
I finally tracked down all the turn signal/stop and tail/parking light wiring and replaced almost all of it bypassing the firewall connectors. After cleaning up the headlight plug and using a zip tie to hold the plug snug on the headlight switch I realized the issue with no tail/park lamps was still unresolved. It ended up being a bad connection from the fusebox tail/stop circuit. Cleaned up fuse box terminals and bam everything is back in order. Also replaced the tail light sockets for ones with a separate ground wire vs. utilizing the tail light housing to ground.
I was able to find the appropriate headlight switch plug sold by Crown as a Jeep part for an 80s CJ7. Looks like they used the same switch, it’s just sold without wiring, so I may hold off until I can find one in a wrecking yard to snag it from.
Thank goodness for the FSM, those schematics helped me clean up a lot of questionable work.
I was able to find the appropriate headlight switch plug sold by Crown as a Jeep part for an 80s CJ7. Looks like they used the same switch, it’s just sold without wiring, so I may hold off until I can find one in a wrecking yard to snag it from.
Thank goodness for the FSM, those schematics helped me clean up a lot of questionable work.
1964 S400 318 poly 4 speed - Linda aka Big Booty Judy
Previous swepties:
1968 D100 318, Hardworking Herbert
1966 D100 318 poly 4 speed - Ginger/Sancha/CrucesCruiser
https://stavisaves.wordpress.com/
Previous swepties:
1968 D100 318, Hardworking Herbert
1966 D100 318 poly 4 speed - Ginger/Sancha/CrucesCruiser
https://stavisaves.wordpress.com/
Re: Headlight Switch Female Plug
Agree, it's been invaluable in helping me track down what to clean up and get things in working order.
It seems I'm always going back to cleaning up grounds and presto, things work again. I fixed my steering
wheel horn button and now just need a couple of horns and the last bit of the harness to connect them.
PO removed them at some point and put in an ahooga horn with a button on the dash.
- wally426ci
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Re: Headlight Switch Female Plug
Let me look in my box of wiring - I may have an extra plug from a harness that was chopped up.
- Wildergarten
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Re: Headlight Switch Female Plug
I am assuming this is the usual Cole Hersee switch with blade connectors sticking out the back. If so, there is an easier way than soldering wires.
1. Obtain male and female "Packard" style connectors. You can get them by the 50 count box at Amazon.
2. Take a screwdriver with about a 1/8 wide blade and slide it in the slot with each wire bending down the tab on its back that locks them in place and they slide right out. Cut off the connector.
3. I lke to slide a piece of heat shrink down the new wire to support the new connection.
4. Crimp the new wire on the new female Packard connector and slide it into the plastic connector body.
5. For connectors outside the cab, I solder them, clean with isopropanol (alcohol) and put a blob of silicone on them and slide the heatshrink over the connection. Heat, and insert into the connector body.
[/list]Hope that helps.
'69 W200 (thumbnail)
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org
'68 W200 (RIP)
'68 W200 383 NP435 3.53
'67 W200 383 NP435 4.10 w overload springs, Dana 60, PTO winch & flatbed dump, racks, crane, c-air (Max)
Mark Vande Pol
Wildergarten.org