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Accessory Gauges

Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 7:35 am
by earlymopar
I'm adding an accessory gauge cluster to my 65 Series I and all 3 gauges have back lighting. Where is the easiest or best location to tap into factory lighting to take advantage of the factory dimmer (without butchering the OEM wiring)?

- EM

Re: Accessory Gauges

Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 10:15 am
by hmaynord
I just used one of the existing bulbs

Re: Accessory Gauges

Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 10:32 am
by earlymopar
Yep, I looked at the bulbs on the instrument panel yesterday but man those are small gage wires leading to the bulb sockets.

Re: Accessory Gauges

Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 10:47 am
by hmaynord
yeah, but you're just adding 3 little lights

Re: Accessory Gauges

Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 11:02 am
by earlymopar
Yes I know. The amount of draw was / is not my concern. I just don't like the fragility of small leads but I'll likely use it anyway.

- EM

Re: Accessory Gauges

Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 11:08 am
by earlymopar
Too bad a fuse tap wouldn't work as that would be a much "cleaner" solution. But that wouldn't allow the dimmer control to the lights in the new gauges.

- EM

Re: Accessory Gauges

Posted: Sun May 27, 2018 9:36 pm
by coelcanth
i think i took apart the plug from the back of the headlight switch and found the main feed for the dash lights..
then i either piggybacked on that slot or crimped two wires (the original and the new) into the flat blade connector to run a second feed for the new lights

Re: Accessory Gauges

Posted: Mon May 28, 2018 8:50 am
by hmaynord
I'll bet both the wire coming out of the switch and going to the dash lights, as well as the wire ending up at the bulb, are 18-20.
when I did the rewire job, I concluded that, based upon research and trial and error, the best functional way to splice into any wire was to use an uninsulated step-down butt connector with crimp and dual-layer heat shrink, like this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/fft2wmgpcj5g7 ... 9.jpg?dl=0

that step-down connector is a 16-14 to 22-18. 1 wire into the red side and 2 into the blue side.
you may not like the looks of it, but it's never coming apart and it's sealed to prevent corrosion.
by splicing into the wire going to the bulb, you accomplish your goal of doing the least damage to the oem wiring.