Ignition

Wiring, lights, heater controls, anything electrical..

Ignition

Postby matthew » Tue May 09, 2017 5:30 pm

I have a 68 d100 318 .problem I'm having is it will run for a while then just shut off.fuel filter still looks full and good squirt in carb.it usually fires right back up and is fine for a while then same thing.i thought coil could be getting hot then shorting out.replaced that same thing,then tried a condenser that I had around no change.ballast which I thought was a long shot no change.usually those act up when releasing key then they quit running.im starting to think maybe ignition switch might be the issue.i wiggle key and it doesn't shut off but seems pretty sloppy. Any ideas?like I said funny thing it starts right back up and runs fine then just dies after a while.
matthew
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:02 pm
City: nova
State: OH

Re: Ignition

Postby Conrad » Wed May 10, 2017 1:03 pm

I had an ignition 'switch harness' in my '74 plymouth that had a loose 'run' wire in the harness connector that would intermittently not make contact and kill the car, and then it would not restart until after some period of time. I would pull the connections and plug them back in and the symptoms didn't change. Drove me crazy until I pulled the harness back out to carefully inspect the connectors and wires and realized what was going on.
Conrad
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 155
Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2016 4:45 pm
City: Austin
State: TX

Re: Ignition

Postby matthew » Wed May 10, 2017 5:42 pm

I hear you.its starting to drive me nuts.it just started doing this a few days ago.never had a problem.sometimes it will run for quite a while and then it's like someone shut the key off.sometimes it will buck and kick before it shuts off.unnerving at a intersection when it does it.but will usually start right back up sometimes it will take about a minute to cool off then fires back up.i know I have had problems with some rust in tank but have been changing fuel filter religiously every couple months.the fuel looks clear in fuel filter and have good squirt of fuel in carb even after it dies.i don't think it's a fuel problem.it just seems to me something electrically is heating up or shorting and shutting off.im gonna try a new switch and go from there.i had replaced all fuel lines from tank to carb but that was quite awhile ago and like I said never had an issue till a few days ago.thanks for info.
matthew
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:02 pm
City: nova
State: OH

Re: Ignition

Postby dodgeboykim » Wed May 10, 2017 8:06 pm

Change out ignition switch. If you can get a used one to try, Do that. :thinking :thinking :thinking
My truck is younger than me.
66 W100. 70 D 500 with 69 Hiab Speed Loader. 96 Ram 3500 Club Cab Cummin's 5 spd. 97 Ram 1500 Club Cab 5.9 gas auto. 83 W200 L/B 360 auto on propane.
User avatar
dodgeboykim
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
 
Posts: 2231
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: chilliwack.
City: Chilliwack. B.C. Canada
State: Foreign

Re: Ignition

Postby jimharold » Thu May 11, 2017 1:00 am

I had a 69' that after sitting for a few months started and ran fine then a week later stumbled some. It got worse until it was hard to keep it running. Pulled the carb and found varnish flakes in the fuel bowl. They had broke loose the more I drove.
And isn't the accelerator pump well isolated from the main fuel bowl. So it should still have good squirts. Maybe enough to start and move the flakes around and run for a while. I wish you luck in fixing your 68' and look forward to hearing what the problem was.
jimharold
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 124
Joined: Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:01 pm
City: Chelan
State: WA

Re: Ignition

Postby matthew » Thu May 11, 2017 3:31 am

Possibility,the fuel system is pretty much new .new carb,fuel pump.replaced all steel lines from tank to carb.i have been changing filter every couple of months because there was some rust in tank.fuel filter gas looks clear,clean.when it's running it runs good.no hesitations,stumbling.it just acts like someone shuts key off.i do eventually want to pull tank.i don't think tank is original.meaning it's a sweptline tank but didn't jack mount in back corner of cab on the passenger side.i could be wrong but there is no way you could get your hand back there to get it if I had one.its a tight fit side to side.i don't know if maybe this tank came out of a d300 or something bigger.
matthew
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:02 pm
City: nova
State: OH

Re: Ignition

Postby Txas2step » Thu May 11, 2017 6:27 am

Might be time to switch to an electronic distributor. Same thing was happening on my '61 yrs back. You can get a decent set up on ebay for under $125. :2cents :Thumbsup

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-273-318-3 ... qm&vxp=mtr
61 shorty 170/ 3spd 3:91(sold)
66 lwb 318 poly/727/4:10 (sold)
67 shorty 318poly/4spd 3:55
68 ute 318/3 spd/3:55(sold)
70 318/727/3:23
66 d200 225/4spd/4:10( military)(sold)
68 d100 383/727/3:55
User avatar
Txas2step
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
 
Posts: 3037
Joined: Mon May 31, 2010 7:26 am
City: houston
State: TX

Re: Ignition

Postby PwrWgnDrvr » Thu May 11, 2017 10:18 am

matthew wrote:Possibility,the fuel system is pretty much new .new carb,fuel pump.replaced all steel lines from tank to carb.i have been changing filter every couple of months because there was some rust in tank.fuel filter gas looks clear,clean.when it's running it runs good.no hesitations,stumbling.it just acts like someone shuts key off.i do eventually want to pull tank.i don't think tank is original.meaning it's a sweptline tank but didn't jack mount in back corner of cab on the passenger side.i could be wrong but there is no way you could get your hand back there to get it if I had one.its a tight fit side to side.i don't know if maybe this tank came out of a d300 or something bigger.

All cabs are the exact same size. The only tank diff is in gal capacity. 61-68 were 16 or 18 gal. 69-71 were 23 or 25 gal and the jack was moved under the hood.
PwrWgnDrvr
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
 
Posts: 5090
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Walnut Creek, CA

Re: Ignition

Postby matthew » Thu May 11, 2017 12:05 pm

Wonder if it has the 70 or 71 tank in it.the tank has some red paint spots on it and truck is blue.and I mean you couldn't get your hand in back cab corner to get anything if you wanted to.it fills the whole back area.thanks for the info.
matthew
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:02 pm
City: nova
State: OH

Re: Ignition

Postby matthew » Thu May 11, 2017 12:12 pm

I've thought about electronic ignition too.whole truck really needs rewired though.i think some Chevy guy was under the hood with side cuts ha,ha.fuse box is a corroded mess which is typical of these trucks.have had to clean up contacts a few times for lights to work.but will probably really consider electronic ignition after that is tackled.
matthew
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:02 pm
City: nova
State: OH

Re: Ignition

Postby matthew » Mon May 15, 2017 5:15 am

Bad connection at points and ignition switch.wiggled lead at distributor that was problem.corroded right at eyelet.never seen that before.fixed that and switch was bad.no detent left in switch when turning from off to on.well at least I think it's good to go left it running in driveway for a while and never quit.havent had a chance to drive it around yet.thanks for all the advice.
matthew
Sweptline.ORG Member
Sweptline.ORG Member
 
Posts: 69
Joined: Sun Jan 24, 2010 8:02 pm
City: nova
State: OH


Return to *ELECTRICAL SYSTEM HELP*

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest