Instrument Cluster Restoration

Wiring, lights, heater controls, anything electrical..

Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby TheMopars » Sun Apr 23, 2017 2:37 pm

Anyone know someone in the states who does this? Appears they do nice work.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/121940389128?_t ... .S2.R1.TR1
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby wally426ci » Mon Apr 24, 2017 6:56 am

You could go this route:
http://www.whitegauges.net/categories/D ... 52dSeries/

I used white for a different look but I have seen black somewhere as well
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby TheMopars » Mon Apr 24, 2017 2:28 pm

I do like the look of the white face gauges and would definitely consider them.
But that link is just buying the face plates right?

The link I put up is to a completely refurbished cluster that has been calibrated and tested.

Definitely pricey but I'm thinking of all the time I would spend trying to do mine ( electrical is
my weak link lol ) and it starts to sound a little more reasonable.

I asked them about sending them my gauges and keeping the patina on the cluster face plate
and they said $425 to redo mine but keep the face plate as is. That's a little easier to manage.
Nothing works on mine so I could certainly drive it around for while with no gauges while I had
this done.

I just wish I could find someone reliable who does this in the US. Picturing the possibility of
customs issues and unexpected fees or taxes since they are in Canada.
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby PwrWgnDrvr » Mon Apr 24, 2017 4:37 pm

I've bought numerous items out of CAN with no customs or tax issues at all. I expect that company has much experience shipping to the US and whatever they quote u will be accurate. Remember NAFTA?
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby cawen » Tue Apr 25, 2017 5:24 am

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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby wally426ci » Tue Apr 25, 2017 7:02 am

I'd consider getting used/tested gauges (not updated by you'd know they were good) from Powerwagon54. If gauges not working, it could just be a voltage regulation problem in the fuel gauge. I understand the hesitation. I had to jump headfirst when my harness melted and it was a good learning experience which made me confident in the system once complete. :salut
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby TheMopars » Tue Apr 25, 2017 11:23 pm

Thanks for the replies guys. I'm considering all options but leaning towards used/tested gauges since
I'm planning to keep this a patina truck that's a solid driver with all the mechanicals working. I've
slowly been getting there and enjoy working on this truck and the learning process. The gauges are
one the last major things not functioning and I'd like to add an original radio too.

I guess saying the gauges don't work wasn't entirely accurate. The gas gauge doesn't work but I've pulled
the sender and know it's broken. The amp gauge moves but it's not accurate, it bounces all over the place.
The temp gauge slowly rises and pegs even though I know it's not running hot. I've replaced the water pump,
hoses, flushed the system twice, had the radiator flushed, cleaned and pressure tested. From what
I've read (and think I understand) the voltage regulator is part of the sender unit so replacing that with
a working unit should be a big step towards seeing what else needs fixing. But I'd like a gauge set with
an oil gauge instead of just the light and like the look of the white gauges. I'm happy to spend a few bucks
here and there on things that fixing are still a bit over my head and help me get to more things on the truck
a little faster. Especially the things I have more confidence doing myself.

As much as I love working on it I love driving it around even more lol. Doing that with everything working
properly, some tunes coming from the radio and little to no rattles is my goal.
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby wally426ci » Wed Apr 26, 2017 6:10 am

Good goal(s)

Make sure to try a laser thermometer. I tore my hair out thinking my truck was reading high to no avail. Turnes out they like to run around the M in TEMP after checking the owners manual.

The regulator is built into the Fuel gauge itself. I bypassed mine with an IVR3 external reglator. The AMP gauge bouncing sounds like a sign of something. I'd check the battery to make sure it is good. :Thumbsup
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby TheMopars » Wed Apr 26, 2017 4:32 pm

wally426ci wrote:Good goal(s)

Make sure to try a laser thermometer. I tore my hair out thinking my truck was reading high to no avail. Turnes out they like to run around the M in TEMP after checking the owners manual.

The regulator is built into the Fuel gauge itself. I bypassed mine with an IVR3 external reglator. The AMP gauge bouncing sounds like a sign of something. I'd check the battery to make sure it is good. :Thumbsup


-Temp meter is pegged all the way to right once warmed up but the truck runs great and doesn't give signs of being the least bit hot.

-Battery is strong and I've had it tested, truck turns right over every time.

- I have a feeling the amp gauge and maybe other gauges issues are related to that regulator. In addition to that bouncing around a bit all my lights
will get brighter when the motor revs. So I think the regulator may solve more than one issue. I replaced the one under the hood with a new one
from Rock Auto and that actually made things worse, gauge was all over the place and the headlights pulsed in addition to getting brighter. I
put the old one back in. Wish I was better with electrical, a lot better lol.
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby PwrWgnDrvr » Wed Apr 26, 2017 5:19 pm

Ammeter and headlight pulsing is normal at low rpm. That's how it works. Lights will always get brighter as engine revs to normal operating speed. Change the temp sender on the engine and it will probably fix the temp gauge pegging problem. Wally is referring to a different regulator that is part of the fuel gauge (not part of the the fuel sender) and makes the fuel and temp gauge work correctly. The one under the hood is part of the charging system, as is the ammeter.
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby TheMopars » Wed Apr 26, 2017 10:21 pm

PwrWgnDrvr wrote:Ammeter and headlight pulsing is normal at low rpm. That's how it works. Lights will always get brighter as engine revs to normal operating speed. Change the temp sender on the engine and it will probably fix the temp gauge pegging problem. Wally is referring to a different regulator that is part of the fuel gauge (not part of the the fuel sender) and makes the fuel and temp gauge work correctly. The one under the hood is part of the charging system, as is the ammeter.


Thanks, I'm learning..... slowly : )
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Re: Instrument Cluster Restoration

Postby wally426ci » Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:08 am

Spot on Terry.

Also, i have found that parts store temp sending units for the intake haven't been accurate. Ive resolved to finding and using NOS chrysler ones.
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