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Fuses seems to be fine so now it's on to other wiring gremlins. I just put in Pertronix Flame Thrower coil (1.5ohm) and Ignitor (to replace points and condenser). Also just put in new alternator and cap. There is so much legacy wiring, splices, wires to nowhere and mystery components so I'm basically pulling a lot of the old wires out of the motor area to start from scratch. Currently from the alternator a green wires goes to alternator regulator, which connects to a black ignition wire. I want to remove the alternator regulator and just connect the ignition wire to the alternator, that should be fine right? Basically delete the old-school alternator regulator all together. #2 I'm also deleting the ballast resistor because the Pertronix says it is not needed with their system and nothing else connects to it.

Alternator:
Black wire from ignition splices with green wire to alternator (Field plug on alternator). Then big black wire from alternator post to ???

Pertronix Ignitor:
Black wire to neg on coil, red wire to pos on coil. Pink wire from ignition switch also to pos terminal on coil

Basically, no ballast resistor and no alternator regulator. Pertronix coil and in the distributor, no points or condensor. Does anybody see any red flags with this???

Section two of this thread:
When I turned the key the spark was strong and immediate but I only got one pop each time while cranking it. If I kept giving it gas I would get a big backfire through the carb. I can't adjust the timing because I cant get it to run. I've seen a couple threads mention "Air Gap". I probably need to adjust this with my Pertronix ignitor. How the hell do I do this? I'm learning a lot through these trials and errors but at this point I could use some help getting alternator, coil, distrubutor and ignition all correctly wired. Any takers on this?

Thanks,

Tom

Lots of how to videos for Mopar on YouTube.

Pretty sure your pertronix kit should've come with a clear plastic feeler gauge which is what you would use to set the gap between the hall sensor and the magnet ring or whatever

Did you check your firing order?

Big backfire thru carb usually means distributor 180* off.

exitsong wrote:
Currently from the alternator a green wires goes to alternator regulator, which connects to a black ignition wire. I want to remove the alternator regulator and just connect the ignition wire to the alternator, that should be fine right?

Should be, black wire is 12 v in the run position.

exitsong wrote: Alternator:
Then big black wire from alternator post to ???

That is going to a splice internal to wiring harness that splits out to head light switch, amp gauge, ignition switch, and fuse block.

exitsong wrote: Pertronix Ignitor:
Pink wire from ignition switch also to pos terminal on coil.

Pink wire from ballast resistor supplies 12 volts on key start position. Red wire supplies 12 volts in key run position. Verify12 volt power at coil in key run and start position.

exitsong wrote: Section two of this thread:
When I turned the key the spark was strong and immediate but I only got one pop each time while cranking it. If I kept giving it gas I would get a big backfire through the carb. I can't adjust the timing because I cant get it to run.

You will get a back fire with the timing to far retarded as well. If you don't have a degree tape, you can set timing after verifying on compression stroke, by measuring 1/16" for every degree you want on the damper ( before top dead center). 12 degree equals 3/4". Make a mark rotate engine till new mark lines up, then set the distributor on number 1 cylinder.
Check out this site for existing wiring,
http://www.sweptline.com/tech/68wire.jpg

Thanks for all the replies. I think I have it pretty dialed, air-fuel mixture is good, plug gaps are good, wiring all seems correct and solid, starts and runs super smooth and quiet now. The only issue now is that there is rapid voltage fluctuation. The needle wiggles around a lot and the lights pulse. Doesn't seem to effect the performance of the vehicle but also doesn't seem right. I have a new alternator with blade connect terminal marked FLD which I don't have attached to anything. My previous alternator was grounded to it's own case. I wonder if I should ground this terminal to the chassis, I might try that today.

All in all the truck did great yesterday on a materials pick up road trip.

Is your new alternator self regulated? Some self regulated alternators need a sense wire to the battery to regulate the voltage.

exitsong wrote:Thanks for all the replies. I think I have it pretty dialed, air-fuel mixture is good, plug gaps are good, wiring all seems correct and solid, starts and runs super smooth and quiet now. The only issue now is that there is rapid voltage fluctuation. The needle wiggles around a lot and the lights pulse. Doesn't seem to effect the performance of the vehicle but also doesn't seem right. I have a new alternator with blade connect terminal marked FLD which I don't have attached to anything. My previous alternator was grounded to it's own case. I wonder if I should ground this terminal to the chassis, I might try that today.

All in all the truck did great yesterday on a materials pick up road trip.

So, tells us what you did to work out the problem?