No start, no crank

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Thu May 19, 2016 6:37 pm

Hello All

This past week I have worked on my sweptside replacing most of the major electrical components on it, the alternator, starter, voltage reg, starter relay. I have started to replace these items as I chased electrical demons, one night last week I was driving my truck parked it came back 2 minutes later and it was dead it wouldn't crank. I put a jump box on it and it started. The morning the following day I was poking around trying to see what the issue was. I thought I found what it was which was the starter due to it's broken solenoid tab.

After replacing that the issue still remained, I then replaced the alternator, and reg as you should replace them in pairs. That didn't help the issue at all. So I believed it to be the starter relay I replaced the relay and at the time the square cover that covers the 2 pronged connector on the relay was touching the positive post, so when I hooked the positive on the battery it sparked. Since I didn't notice that issue I replaced the ignition switch. I replaced the switch today, and noticed my error today after fixing everything, I still have no start no crank. I hooked the truck up to my 95' Cummins to supply the battery with power.

I can see on the gauge that there is a draw when I go to put the truck into the start position, same with when I put the lights and high beams on.

Does anyone have a clue on whats wrong with the truck? Thanks Paul

Post by **Hobcobble** » Thu May 19, 2016 7:13 pm

What year is your truck?

John

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Thu May 19, 2016 8:38 pm

That information would help its a 1963. I have read the entire write up on I believe 68-73 trucks

Txas2step · Post by **Txas2step** » Thu May 19, 2016 9:38 pm

Did you replace the ballast resistor ?

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Thu May 19, 2016 10:18 pm

No I did not that would be located near the brake master cylinder correct?

marklein · Post by **marklein** » Thu May 19, 2016 10:40 pm

If you can cross the starter relay and it cranks, then the relay is not being tripped by the ignition switch. You can test the relay by using a jumper wire and feeding voltage to the ign tab. If it tests ok, then you are not getting voltage from the ign switch, suspect wiring, usually corroded terminals at the firewall. Are you getting voltage to and out of the ign switch?

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Fri May 20, 2016 6:39 am

I getting voltage out of the ignition switch, the high beams, wipers work. However when I tested the positive on the coil there was no voltage, as well as at the relay. I will check at the firewall today.

Any one have a clue as to why I am getting a draw when I try to crank?

Txas2step · Post by **Txas2step** » Fri May 20, 2016 7:33 am

12Valve wrote:No I did not that would be located near the brake master cylinder correct?

correct

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Fri May 20, 2016 8:16 am

Dumb question does this resistor have to be grounded to the master cylinder, I had an assistant help me unscrew the bolts however they never re attached the resistor to the master cylinder again

Txas2step · Post by **Txas2step** » Fri May 20, 2016 10:56 am

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Fri May 20, 2016 11:31 am

Okay I'll order a replacement from Napa today, I'll let you know how it turns out when I replace it

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Fri May 20, 2016 2:20 pm

I just replaced the resistor, everything works as should. however I can get it to fire and run for a second it then dies. Does anyone have a diagram for the ignition switch because I think that's where the issue is.

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Fri May 20, 2016 7:08 pm

I checked the wiring to the switch it is correct, upon mistake if you leave the ignition to the start position the engine will run, but as soon as the switch goes to the run position it dies

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Sat May 21, 2016 4:15 pm

Anyone have an idea of why this is happening?

GMAN69 · Post by **GMAN69** » Sat May 21, 2016 4:30 pm

When in start position the Ballist resistor is bypassed . In run position voltage goes through Ballist resistor . Check for voltage on both sides of Ballist resistor, with switch in run position.

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Sat May 21, 2016 6:02 pm

Okay I did that I measured it in the start position which is 12.5 V and in the run position it is 8.5V

pwadventurer · Post by **pwadventurer** » Sun May 22, 2016 6:39 am

12 Valve, with the key turned on to "run" position, you should have 12 volts to voltage regulator, horn, and 1 side of ballast resistor(red wire), and 8 volts to other side of resistor(pink wire) and positive side of coil (red wire).

With key turned on to "start" position, you should have 12 volts to starter relay (start terminal, orange wire) and positive side of coil, red wire.

The starter relay housing needs to be grounded to fender, or neutral safety switch to work. Some starter relays have extra terminal for neutral switch grounding.

Rick

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Sun May 22, 2016 10:01 am

I replaced the starter relay it used to be a single post, meaning it self grounded. At the time I did not want to wait, I ordered the 2 post for the later model years with a negative safety switch. When I installed I understood that the post NEG would have to be grounded which I made a small jumper wire to go from the NEG tab to one of the bolts that hold the starter relay on.

Now I am having the issue I can not get the truck to crank, however all the electrics function as they should.

I have wired the ignition switch as follows

BROWN 8 Gauge L-7 ( Headlamp) - BATT
RED 12 Gauge J-10 (Ballast Resistor) - IGN 1
BLACK 14 Gauge F-8 ( Oil Pressure) - IGN 1
ORANGE 16 Gauge J-18 ( Starter Relay) - START
LIGHT BLUE 16 Gauge J-2 (Fuel Gauge) - ACC
PINK 16 Gauge J-9 ( Ballast Bypass) - IGN 2

I am tired of dealing with the switch. I have giving up so I am going to be making a partial switch panel that will operate the following functions; Starter, Ballast bypass, and Ballast. The truck is still running points therefore I will have the two switches for the bypass, and to run through the ballast. I am no stranger to electrical work, I have rewired my 6 Volt Positive Ground Hudson myself, I have never ran into a problem like this before. Is it possible I have received a bad ignition switch from Napa?

I do want to thank all of you for the help and imput

12Valve · Post by **12Valve** » Tue May 24, 2016 8:59 pm

Today I had a chance to mess around with the truck, I ran a single bypass line from the ignition switch for the starter relay. I was able to get the truck to start, but again not to run. I knew I had power to plugs, coil, and the engine was getting air. Therefore maybe fuel was an issue, I took the top half of the carb off, and made sure the float wasn't stuck or anything of the sort. When I put the carb back together I cranked the truck over, she sputtered, on the second restart she fired right up.

I have a question for the 60-64 sweptline guys the body harness or bulkhead connector is it possible to disconnect the wires from the connector?

Post by **Hobcobble** » Wed May 25, 2016 11:00 am

12Valve wrote: I have a question for the 60-64 sweptline guys the body harness or bulkhead connector is it possible to disconnect the wires from the connector?

Not from the actual connector. You could probably find a better connector and splice it in though?
I did this on my '65 W200 after the previous owner had an electrical barbecue...
John

Sweptline.ORG

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