I'm replacing the beat-up gauges in my '61 Utiline with these: http://www.autometer.com/old-tyme-black ... peedo.html
The meters come with fuel, oil and water senders and the speedo is mechanical. What sort of grief have I set myself up for? I've already bypassed the ammeter using the guide from MAD Electrical, so my big concern is getting the fuel, temp and pressure gauges going.
New Gauges
Re: New Gauges
You might keep in mind the provision for a voltage limiter. This limiter is
integral to the stock fuel gauges in the '64-'68 trucks I've worked on. Although
I cannot verify 100%, I would think that the '61-'63 fuel gauges had one too.
John
integral to the stock fuel gauges in the '64-'68 trucks I've worked on. Although
I cannot verify 100%, I would think that the '61-'63 fuel gauges had one too.
John
Re: New Gauges
Kind of a shame that Radio Shack went out of business, I guess. Can't just run around the corner for a 5V voltage regulator any more!Hobcobble wrote:You might keep in mind the provision for a voltage limiter. This limiter is
integral to the stock fuel gauges in the '64-'68 trucks I've worked on. Although
I cannot verify 100%, I would think that the '61-'63 fuel gauges had one too.
John
Re: New Gauges
Looks like the fuel gauge is going to give me fits. The stock sender ranges from 73 ohms (empty) to 8-12 ohms (full), but the new gauge requires 240 ohms (empty) to 33 ohms (full). It comes with a sender, but it's not compatible with a sender that has the fuel line in it. So, I'm faced with the task of either cutting a new hole in the tank for the replacement sender or figuring out a way to either adapt the replacement sender to the existing hole or work up some sort of adapter that will convert the Chrysler resistance to Auto Meter resistance. Since I'd rather not go through the huge hassle of draining the tank and making it safe for cutting, I'm going to try to put my electrical engineering degree to use and jimmy up an adapter.
Oh, and since none of the gauges are the same size as the originals, I've ordered an aluminum plate and I'll cut a new dash insert and powder coat it.
EDIT: I just saw a picture of what claims to be a '61 D100 fuel sender and it does not have a fuel line supply in it, which, if true, just made my job a lot easier.
DOUBLE EDIT: Apparently inside cab tanks have the fuel supply line integrated into the sender. Oh joy.
TRIPLE FREAKIN' EDIT(!): Auto meter makes a Chrysler-compatible gauge. Who'd'a thunk?
Oh, and since none of the gauges are the same size as the originals, I've ordered an aluminum plate and I'll cut a new dash insert and powder coat it.
EDIT: I just saw a picture of what claims to be a '61 D100 fuel sender and it does not have a fuel line supply in it, which, if true, just made my job a lot easier.
DOUBLE EDIT: Apparently inside cab tanks have the fuel supply line integrated into the sender. Oh joy.
TRIPLE FREAKIN' EDIT(!): Auto meter makes a Chrysler-compatible gauge. Who'd'a thunk?
Re: New Gauges
Maybe by the Quintuple Edit, you'll be back on the road....
John
John
Re: New Gauges
At that point, the old gauges go back in and we never speak of this again!Hobcobble wrote:Maybe by the Quintuple Edit, you'll be back on the road....
John
Re: New Gauges
Gauges are in and working!
For those who go this route, here are some hints that may be helpful.
1. A bimetal hole saw cuts aluminum just fine. Use a drill press.
2. You probably won't be able to find a 3 5/32" hole saw for Auto Meter gauges. An 80mm saw works just fine.
3. Install the gauges in the dash plate and do as much wiring outside of the truck as you can. For instance, power and ground can daisy chain from gauge to gauge. In my case, I wired power and ground to a ring connector on the threaded stud of the second gauge from the outside on the left and right sides, then from there to the spade lug connectors.
4. Don't cut wires willy-nilly. It may seem like a ground when on the meter, but run a ground wire to a real ground. And power around the dash isn't always reliable. Tap into power at the fuse panel. And do use an inline fuse to the gauges.
5. You'll probably need a 90 degree elbow fitting for the oil pressure sender. It's a very tight fit against the oil pump.
6. The original oil pressure sender will probably be screwed in like nobody's business. It may be screwed into an adapter bushing. I could not get the bushing off and I broke the end off of the sender in the process. Keep small children away unless you want to expand their vocabulary in ways that their mother will not appreciate.
7. Get a good crimping tool. I have one made by Klein. You don't have to get one that expensive, but I'd recommend against the stamped metal looking tools.
8. If you're replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter, follow these instructions to make life easier and safer in the long run.
For those who go this route, here are some hints that may be helpful.
1. A bimetal hole saw cuts aluminum just fine. Use a drill press.
2. You probably won't be able to find a 3 5/32" hole saw for Auto Meter gauges. An 80mm saw works just fine.
3. Install the gauges in the dash plate and do as much wiring outside of the truck as you can. For instance, power and ground can daisy chain from gauge to gauge. In my case, I wired power and ground to a ring connector on the threaded stud of the second gauge from the outside on the left and right sides, then from there to the spade lug connectors.
4. Don't cut wires willy-nilly. It may seem like a ground when on the meter, but run a ground wire to a real ground. And power around the dash isn't always reliable. Tap into power at the fuse panel. And do use an inline fuse to the gauges.
5. You'll probably need a 90 degree elbow fitting for the oil pressure sender. It's a very tight fit against the oil pump.
6. The original oil pressure sender will probably be screwed in like nobody's business. It may be screwed into an adapter bushing. I could not get the bushing off and I broke the end off of the sender in the process. Keep small children away unless you want to expand their vocabulary in ways that their mother will not appreciate.
7. Get a good crimping tool. I have one made by Klein. You don't have to get one that expensive, but I'd recommend against the stamped metal looking tools.
8. If you're replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter, follow these instructions to make life easier and safer in the long run.
Re: New Gauges
Very nice!
John
John