ron francis/ ignition switch

[bobmac25]

ok folks got another one for ya! I have a 69 d100 with 318 auto. I recently re wired my truck with an express kit from Ron francis..I have all the wiring done and went to try it all out.. everything works like the head lights, horn, dash lights, and 4 ways, but nothing that requires the truck running will work. turn signals, wipers, and will not turn over. truck had no problems before I re wired it. just wanted new wires foe safety reasons. looked like it was pretty mangled over the years. tried the origional ignition switch and an aftermarket on but no dice..went over the instructions and the origional wiring schematics but can't figure out whats wrong.. hopefully someone here has done the ron francis switch and can help me out..

[Roxyflash]

Could you scan the instructions and post it here?

[CSS-Registry]

i did a RF Express on my truck.

it sounds like you're not getting power to the switch.

i also installed the simplex grounding kit on mine - this may be your problem in that you might not be grounding out fully.

did you wire it with points or electronic ignition?

either way see if you have power in the start or run circuit by hooking a test light up to each side of the ballast resistor. if you have power there then you'll need to check and see if you have power going to the starter solenoid wire.

if you don't have power at any point you'll need to retrace your wires and double check your crimps.

did you eliminate the AMP gauge like RF suggests or did you maintain that?

something to note when rewiring - always test your wires as you go by using a test light. that way if you have a crimp issue you can resolve it right away.



Ben

[bobmac25]

well I have double and triple checked the wires crimps and instructions. I have even been on the phone with Ron Francis for the last 3 days. Can't figure it out. They told me to try the starter relay wire right to bat. Post on relay. It turns over but starter stays engaged even in the run position. I'm thinking maybe the neutral safety switch wire is hooked up wrong. They say it gets hooked up to the brown wire with the yellow stripe. But that wire is not there. The colors are orange, brown, and black. Brown wire being in the middle. Any one know which wire is the correct one? I don't want to short something out and screw something up. Also getting fed up. Anyone know how to by pass neutral safety switch? Any help will be appreciated..

[CSS-Registry]

It's been over three years that I wired mine. I'll need to dig out the wire guides to get on the same page as you.

I had zero problems putting mine in but it was a brain teaser for sure.

Can you give a recap of your truck? What gauge are using? AMP or volt? Stock or aftermarket gauges? Are you going to use the headlight switch RF supplied?

Where are you mounting the fuse panel?

[bobmac25]

I am using all wires from RF. Aftermarket gauges and using headlight switch from RF.

[bobmac25]

Just thought. I remember one of the techs at RF saying to ground the battery cable to one of the starter mounting bolts. I grounded it to the block. Could that be causing me issues?

[dodgeboykim]

Block or starter shouldn't make a difference. Still on the motor. Do you have a ground from the block to body/frame as well.

[CSS-Registry]

to bypass the neutral safety switch simply ground the NS SW light blue wire.

if you like send me an email with your cell phone number and i can walk you through how i wired my truck's circuits by popping the hood and calling out the wires i see.

are you using a mopar starter relay?

looks like this:



if that is bad you may get a situation where the starter stays engaged.

[WD]

You pretty much NEED to have the following grounds, even with a full rewire. Battery to engine, engine to firewall, battery to frame and/or core support. Running a ground wire from each tail light bucket to a common grounding lug isn't unheard of either.

Treat your Sweptline as if it was a fiberglass kit car, wire accordingly.

And use a Ford starter solenoid/relay, finding a good Mopar one is a crap shoot the last few years, my truck fried several before lucking into an American made one.

[CSS-Registry]

to support what WD stated above i strongly encourage you to use a grounding kit.

i installed the RF SImplex Grounding kit that provides a ground for every component of the truck. i have a common bolt that every wire grounds to that is in turn grounded to the engine block. from there i have a wire to leads to the lights (F&R), the radio, the gas tank - you name it - it is all grounded with a COPPER WIRE.

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=gw-55

make sure you are properly grounded as that will give you all sorts of trouble and gremlins...

[CSS-Registry]

in this image if you look closely you will see a ground strap mounted to the firewall next to the master cylinder. this is my common grounding bolt and the bolt itself is copper.



all my chassis grounds are bolted on the the outside and all my interior grounds are bolted to this same bolt on the inside. all wires share the same harness path and are taped up as i ran wires.

it was a major undertaking to do but if you're methodical and follow RF's wire sheets one at a time in the order they describe you should be able to rewire the whole truck step by step and test as you go. my only test device was a test light - a light on a needle prob and wire with an alligator clip on the end.

[bobmac25]

went over the way my truck is wired it is as follows:

lg post on starter wires to alt, bat post on relay and + on bat.
sm post on starter wires to SOL on relay, and to bat terminal on Ignition sw.
battery grounded to engine block.
ground on relay grounded to engine block.
"I" on relay to #4 on RF panel.
on ignition sw..ACC to #2 on panel
IG#1 to #1 on panel
ST to #4 on panel
Ground to ground.
If anything is out of place.PLEASE HELP..

[CSS-Registry]

send me an email with your phone number and i will call you on Saturday. i will have my truck hood up and we can walk through the wires together and compare notes. i have an express kit for a mopar with dual points and four headlights.

my email is simonsben@gmail.com

Ben

[bobmac25]

well at least I got it to turn over...now have to work out a few other small problems with the wiring...thank for all the help so far!

[CSS-Registry]

excellent - you have my number so between us and techs at RF we'll get you running!

[WanderingDodge]

Don't mean to hijack, but could really use some help.
Just couldn't help but notice the use of a Ford Relay.
I've gonna ahead and done this swap, and have a question?

Before

Two wires remain undone on my truck currently, you can see which ones above.
They've the plastic connector bits on them, (orange and black wires), mounting them to the top of the now replaced relay.
I might have read once, that one was meant as a neutral safety to the transmission? Confirm or deny

After

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thank you in advance.

[CSS-Registry]

I might have read once, that one was meant as a neutral safety to the transmission? Confirm or deny

if i am not mistaken i believe the black wire on the upper left of your post is the neutral safety switch. i think the right side orange wire is the starter solenoid.

do you have a test light? you can chase wires really well with a simple test light.

i am not sure if the ford relay has a neutral safety provision but if it does you can simply ground that wire to the mounting bolt to bypass the switch.

Ben