Another wiring mess

[shdnobetter]

Well, I finally dug into the wiring on the old beast last night, and it's not pretty. Just a sample:
Headlights, but no parking lights.
Nothing at the rear; the tail light harness is ripped apart about halfway back.
Turn signals, heater, wipers work without the key on.
When I had it running, it had 11 v at the coil.
It's had a backyard patch done at the bulkhead connector with (ugh!) butt connectors!
The horn is (was) operated from a push-pull switch on the dash.
The stop/dome light fuse connectors in the fuse block are melted.

There's more, but you get the point. I'll have a post in the parts wanted section for a fuse block.

[MountainMoparRobin]

and you'll be able to make it better, then you'll know whats their

[shdnobetter]

Thanks for the encouraging word, Robin. It's just a little frustrating when time after time I run across something that makes me think to myself "what were they thinking?!"
At least somewhere down the line someone did something right; there is what looks like a retrofit #8 wire running from the alt. output terminal to the ammeter, and another matching one running from the other side of the ammeter to the battery cable stud on the starter relay. These don't go through the bulkhead connector; they pass through one of the factory 1" or 1 1/4" holes in the firewall (although without a grommet!). The original 12 ga. alt. output wire is still buried in the engine compartment harness! Somebody at some point got smart, but it looks like somebody or several somebodies before or after the smart guy did a butcher job on several other areas.
As of tonight I have the engine harness all fixed up; it just needs to taped up. I just wanted the ignition circuit to be right when I fire up the new LA365 next month. I'll sort out the rest as I go.

[nfury8]

The engine compartment side bulk head connectors can be salvaged from a variety
of Mopars over the years. Heck, the whole bulkhead could be too for that matter.
I know the 69-73+ C bodies use the same bulkhead as the 69-71 trucks.

You might be better served to not bother with a stock fuse block and use an aftermarket
replacement. I picked up 2 the other day for future upgrades on my Crewcab. They
are made by Bussman and have 12 circuits feed by a buss bar and use blade connectors.
The outputs are 1/4" spades. Very handy for modifying! I will use one for battery power
and the other for switched power. They come in a variety of sizes, NAPA carries several
in their catalog, and the 6 circuit one on their website for $17. I noticed Advance also
now carries a 6 circuit one for $6.50. I got the 12 circuits from a local truck supply $12 each!

Here is a picture of the 6 circuit version.

218094.jpg (9.76 KiB) Viewed 1472 times

I plan to use the blade connectors while wiring them up. Then when done, drop a little
solder on each connection and some shrink wrap.

[PatS]

Check out Ron Francis Wireworks. Call and talk to Ron himself, they can make you up a kit specifically for your truck, with a serial number so than any add-ons later can be done easily.
His kits are simple and easy to install and last forever.

[shdnobetter]

Great information, you guys. Thanks!
Rick

[MountainMoparRobin]

Back in 1988, when I bought my truck I was intimidated by electrical, then after staying up late one night with a man with a volmeter tracing down why the tail lights wouldn't work, I found it wasn't bad, then I started doing it myself, and now wouldn't take it to someone else, for I wonder if they know what they are doing. On the 54 Willys I bought I'm doing the same, and as you truck owners are doing, I bought aftermarket modern fuse blocks and add new electrical items to it.

[WTElling]

Hey hows every one doin, I got a 71' D-100 step side and the wiring is a mess I dont have:
turn signals
break light
running lights
back up lights
dash lights
The fuse box and wiring harness looks like *#%^! I bought some trialer lights for a temporary fix but it only worked for about 3 months. About the only thing that works is the front head lights. I've never re-wired a truck before and was wondering if i could get some pointers. Thanks,

WTELLING

[shdnobetter]

Here's my $.02 US:
Get the most accurate wiring diagram you can. I have diagrams from 3 different sources, and have found simple errors on 2 of them, one of them from a manual!
Get yourself a decent digital mutimeter (volt/ohm meter). You don't have to spend a fortune, but you want something with which you can check ohms (resistance/continuity) and voltage.
When repairing the wiring, SOLDER EVERYTHING!! Butt connectors, crimp-on terminals, etc. work ok until they're subjected to moisture or other corrosive influences. I believe in soldering every joint, splice, and even the terminals themselves.

[WTElling]

Thanks,
I've found only one diagram an I got it out of a chiltons book at the library, and I've looked online but I can't find any.

[Hobcobble]

Thanks,
I've found only one diagram an I got it out of a chiltons book at the library, and I've looked online but I can't find any.

Try this one:
http://www.sweptline.com/tech/71wire.jpg
Welcome to the site
John

[wally426ci]

I contacted Bill Evans about getting harness' made for these trucks. They told me that they could probably do only the engine harness if they had another one to go by..... as long as they had the right bulkhead connectors. it would be worth it i think.... you could have them put electonic ignition in it if you wanted...

http://evanswiring.tripod.com/index.html

very nice people, got my Challenger harness there, never ran better!

[nfury8]

Don't waste your time with Chilton's, go right to the source.
Bishko Books offers reproduction Dodge service manuals for these trucks
at a very reasonable price. It will cover every aspect of the truck, and has
the best wiring diagram I have found so far.

Once you get the book, take it and make 11x17 blow ups of the wiring diagrams.
They will be easier to read and then you can mark on them and make notes,
without marring the book or trying to read from a 1000 page book with your
head under the dash!

The wiring on these trucks is really simple. Too simple in some regards.
Rewiring one from scratch isn't a big deal. The exterior light harnesses are
glorified trailer light systems. In fact the 4 wire trailer wiring is ideal for
replacing the exterior lighting. The dash wiring is completely self contained
with the dash, The easiest way to rewire one would be to remove the dash
rewire it and then reinstall it. There is only one other wire in the cab that isn't
in the dash, and that runs up to the cab light, it plugs in to the dash harness
behind the drivers side door hinge.

I agree on soldering connections, crimp only is not wise. They cost a little more,
but there are some really slick connectors called solder seal. They are heat shrink
tubes with rings of solder in them. Stick the wire ends in, and heat. The solder
will melt and then the heat shrink has an adhesive in it, so it then provides a
water proof seal. They can run 25-45 cents each, depending on where you get them,
but they can really make a big job go very smoothly.

[shdnobetter]

Great info, nfury8. Thanks!

[WTElling]

thanks for the info! this is really gonna help me


-WILL