Correct point of battery ground?

Wiring, lights, heater controls, anything electrical..
Post Reply
DyeingSwan

Correct point of battery ground?

Post by DyeingSwan »

Hi there,

So I was doing what I thought would be a routine job today - replacing a cracked, swollen lower radiator hose on my '67 D100, and doing the heater hoses along with it, since I might as well. Upon removing the lower hose from the water pump however, I found to my dismay that the metal of the water outlet had corroded beyond all recognition - essentially 50% of it fell off along with the radiator hose, which must have been the only thing holding it all together. While removing the water pump, I noticed it was aluminum. Also, the battery ground was connected to one of the water pump bolts. Now, somehow this doesn't seem right to me, with the little I know about unlike metals and electrolysis. My new replacement water pump is likewise aluminum. I guess I'll put the ground back the way it was if that was factory - but can other users confirm the water pump is/isn't really the correct point of ground? My engine is the 225 Slant 6.

Regards,
Courtney

PrairieDog

Post by PrairieDog »

My ground is on the side of the block a few inches below the front frost plug.


Prairiedog

User avatar
Jeffc
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Posts: 1954
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
Location: Vancouver, WA
Contact:

Post by Jeffc »

The most common grounding points will be on the head or the block.
It could be that it being grounded to your water pump added
to the water pump housing falling to pieces......
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!

JimE
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Sweptline.ORG Pioneer
Posts: 1906
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
City: Glendale,
State: AZ
Location: Glendale, AZ

Post by JimE »

I'm with the prairie dog, the ground goes to the drivers side of the block. Jim

User avatar
wideblock
Founding Member
Founding Member
Posts: 5617
Joined: Wed Dec 31, 1969 6:00 pm
City: las cruces nm
State: NM
Location: Las Cruces, New Mexico
Contact:

Post by wideblock »

to add to that, ground on the block whenever possible, the heads are secondary to this. but i always run a second ground from whatever ground point you use, block or head, down to the frame. this makes sure that you have a positive frame ground as well as engine ground. if you just go thru the motor, the only part going back to the frame is the engine mount bolts, to me, this isnt a positive enough connection. oh yeah, i alwats use the same gauge as my battery ground cable for the additional cable. this is in addition to the standard motor to fire wall strap. when all is said and done, you got a loop from the batt to the motor, motor to cab, and motor to frame. so, you got all possible routes covered for juice to get back to the battery. :Thumbsup
Trey

1965 CSS Utiline.


ex trucks:
70 D100
66 d100
66 d100
67 d100
69 d100
69 d200 crew cab
65 crew cab
66 d100
66 d100


"i don't know it all, but i know enough to be dangerous"

DyeingSwan

Post by DyeingSwan »

:Thumbsup Thanks for the input. I purchased a new, longer ground cable (the one attached to the water pump being somewhat corroded anyway) and have attached it to the bolt which connects the block to some kind of bracket the other end of which is attached to the bottom of the engine mount. I used the 10-gauge pigtail wire from the ground cable to make a second frame ground at a radiator mounting bolt. Everything seems to be working great and hopefully this time the water pump will last a bit longer!

Post Reply