Ignition switch help

[billy-jay]

Im having trouble figuring out my Ign.switch on my 64.I have power to the Batt.and acc.in off pos.In run I have power to Ign.#1 and not Ign.#2.In start Ign.#1 goes outand still nothing in Ign.#2? I need a constant hot in run pos. for my Cummins swap.Is this because Ign.#1 and #2 were set up to run thru the ballast resistor?Thanks Jim

[Jeffc]

Im having trouble figuring out my Ign.switch on my 64.I have power to the Batt.and acc.in off pos.In run I have power to Ign.#1 and not Ign.#2.In start Ign.#1 goes outand still nothing in Ign.#2? I need a constant hot in run pos. for my Cummins swap.Is this because Ign.#1 and #2 were set up to run thru the ballast resistor?Thanks Jim

Here is the code for the switch--
A-- accessory power feed, only hot when key is in run
or accessory
B-- switch power supply from battery
S-- to starter relay
I1-- run- should be hot anytime key is
on for driving, pass though ballast
I2-- start bypass, bypass the ballast, only hot when
key is in start

[billy-jay]

Thanks Jeff.My A and B are hot with the key on or off.I dont have the ballast resistor so can I tie #1 and #2 together for a constant hot for the Cummins fuel shut off...Jim

[Jeffc]

How are you using your starter?
I2 should also be to the relay so that the starter
kicks and should be only hot then.
Since I2 is only hot when in start at the key it
really will not do you any good just splicing
it with I1 unless you use a remote start button.
If you use a remote start button to power the
starter, I would just not use I2.

I1 should supply any 'running' power you need.

"A" should not be hot with key off, if it stays
hot your going to supply power all the time
to gauges, ect. and drain power from the system
even when everything is off.

[billy-jay]

On my cummins swap all I need is a key on constant hot to the fuel shut off switch to make it run.I hooked the S wire that went to the old relay to the new cummins relay and it works the starter ok.I had ign 1 to the fuel shut off but it cuts the power when in the start pos. not allowing the engine to start.Soooo I hooked 1 and 2 together with 2 giving me power when in the start pos. and that let the engine start and run with the key switch.Im no expert on wiring and Im sure there is a better way of doing this but this was how I finally got the truck to start and keep running with the key...Thanks Jim

[Jeffc]

got you, not knowing the Cummins system
I got it....

[RussRoth]

On my cummins swap all I need is a key on constant hot to the fuel shut off switch to make it run.I hooked the S wire that went to the old relay to the new cummins relay and it works the starter ok.I had ign 1 to the fuel shut off but it cuts the power when in the start pos. not allowing the engine to start.Soooo I hooked 1 and 2 together with 2 giving me power when in the start pos. and that let the engine start and run with the key switch.Im no expert on wiring and Im sure there is a better way of doing this but this was how I finally got the truck to start and keep running with the key...Thanks Jim

You are OK. Painless had me jump 1 and 2 to make their wiring kit work right with the Chrysler system. Been about 7 years working fine.

[fosh69]

I had to do the same with my painless kit... I1 and I2 jumpered so all my gauges work.

RussRoth, which kit did you use? The universal based on the chevy harness?

[RussRoth]

RussRoth, which kit did you use? The universal based on the chevy harness?

It was a universal, dash mounted key, 12 circuit one based on GM wiring. My only complaint is the 4 way flashers do not continue to flash when you step on the brakes and the 12 circuits did not include one for back up lights. I probably have the part # somewhere.