Voltage Regulator Replacement

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johnny

Voltage Regulator Replacement

Post by johnny »

I want to replace the mechanical v/r on my '66 W300. I recall seeing some posts about replacing the mechanical v/r with a newer electronic version. Can someone provide a part number? Are there any changes to the wire connectors necessary? Thanks!

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Jeffc
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Post by Jeffc »

There are a few ways to go here,
easy way is to order one from Jegs
part number 312-P3690732 (mopar racing regulator)
$19.99 these do not look like the stock box if you want that.
I have been using one of these blue boxes on my 66 for
many years and seems to work great....
Nehoff also make a VR and looks like a
stock "points" regulator (don't have a part number).
Both of these use a one wire type alt like you have in
your truck now.
Then you could go with a the Mopar 2 wire regulator
ether using some used parts with some new stuff.
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!

johnny

Jeff,

Post by johnny »

the Jegs v/r you mentioned is described in their catalog as for racing only. That is, it regulates the voltage at a constant rate - no flucuations. Jegs has another electronic v/r that is described as a muscle car replica v/r, but allows voltage flucuations as in normal operation. As my W300 is stock, the voltage will flucuate with different accessories turned on and off, wouldn't the non-racing application v/r be better? Also, is there an electronic replacment v/r that's a direct bolt-on that's available from local parts stores? Thanks.

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Hippy_Dave
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Post by Hippy_Dave »

hey guys heres how I solved the problem of miserable charging/not enough power. I'm about as hard core MOPAR as the next guy but I replaced my stock alternator with a :shame Large case F :censoredD alternator rewound to 160 Amps. Iv'e done this to 4 MOPARS I've owned through the years. I know its a sin to put that 4 letter word on my Dodge, BUT I was just plain fed up with not enough power for the tunes. It's real easy and you don't need any new parts except for a voltage reg. and an idiot light of some sort, and an alernator. I'm sure if you got some extra P/S brackets or Alt. brackets whatever you too can rig it up. I've done it 2 diff ways; on the passs side down low in the factory location(you need to modify the alt case slightly for pulleys to line up) or my latest is mounted on the drivers side up high almost centered. Both work GREAT. I know I've got an abomination to the MOPAR Gods on my motor but like I said, i got more power than I need for all my electrical and it's trouble free.
69 D-200
37 Delivery Sedan (in pieces)
92 Dakota - traded for a 2001 Ram 1500
79 Dodge Aspen 2-dr -- didnt have time for it
2010 Charger former squad car = Love it
sweeet

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Jeffc
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Post by Jeffc »

Not a bad idea Dave, but a lot of the early trucks do not
have the wiring too handle that many amps without upgrades.
Around 60 to 70 amps is max on the 68 and earlier trucks
without putting larger gauge wires in the charge system.
Most of the 69 and up trucks had 100 amp alt's as a option
and there wiring will handle a bit more.
Don't do upgrades on the earlier trucks and start cooking wires.........
http://imageevent.com/jeffc
62 D100 225 3sp lwb
64 D100 A318 727pb custom lwb
66 D100 A318 4sp lwb
68 D100 B383 727 swb
65 Dart GT LA273 2bbl 904
73 Scamp 225 2bbl 4sp od
68 P300 318 727 base Oasis 22' RV
71 for sale D200 318 auto parts truck could be fixed compleat $400
Old iron or no iron!
One size does NOT fit all!

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Russ
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Post by Russ »

This subject seems to come up lot. You shouldn't get caught up in the stated amp rating of an alternator. It really doesn't mean anything to say an alternator can put out 100 or more amps since it will never do that under normal operation. If it does you will have a fire under your dash. Look at your amp guage, it probaly doesn't read over about thirty amps anyway, and that is about the maximum that the wiring is safely designed to carry. Rear wheel drive Mopars with V8 engines and factory a/c from the eighties had 78 amp alternators that will bolt in with no mods and will provide all the charging power you will normally ever need. They are cheap and available so why go to a lot of trouble to change it. I also happen to like the look better than the smooth side design of the other makes, but maybe that's just me.
1969 Adventurer W100

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Hippy_Dave
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Post by Hippy_Dave »

I agree Russ NORMALLY you don't need more power, but when you do. . . In my 69 Valiant I had 3 older amplifiers and when I yanked on it it would pull anywhere from 60 to 90 AMPS @ the battery!
I forgot to mention that I replaced all my gauges w/2" aftermarket goodies from Summit. Amp gauge was replaced w/ volt meter, water and oil w/ mechanical gauges. I had a spare gauge cluster that I modified to accept them all in the factory locations, at a glance the dash looks stock since everything is mounted from behind , it worked out pretty slick. Now for the wiring; the factory wires pretty much end up un-used or you can use them for a different function on the other alternator, since you need 3 wires from the regulator to the alternator anyway. My alternator guy told me "If theres an ampmeter in the dash ALL your power goes through it and if it fails or the wires to it fail YOU ARE F :censored ! " I've had both situations in older Dodges and it is a pain in the A** trying to replace or splice cooked wires. Especially if your stranded somewhere! So 3 wires between Alt and V Reg, a solid ground strap and a chunk of 4 gauge to the battery, Done. I've got a killer simple plan for electronic ignition too if anybody needs it. :lol:
69 D-200
37 Delivery Sedan (in pieces)
92 Dakota - traded for a 2001 Ram 1500
79 Dodge Aspen 2-dr -- didnt have time for it
2010 Charger former squad car = Love it
sweeet

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Post by wideblock »

VR1751 is the stock looking replacement. not sure the brand, but im sure any decent parts house can cross the number. worked great on my 69, the lights will still go dim a bit at idle, but there is no more pulsing at the gauge going down the road or at idle. :Thumbsup
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