New Sweptline Disc Brake Conversion Kit

MountainMoparRobin · Post by **MountainMoparRobin** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 6:44 am

It seems that out of the 2 systems this one is the simplest one to install, right now the way things are, I'd have to go with this setup because it uses 80% of all existing parts

Big_G · Post by **Big_G** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 11:12 am

AAJ brakes is at http://www.aajbrakes.com or you can call Roger at (503) 890-1469. Check out his website. He makes disc brake conversions for other mopars as well. He is into mopars. He originally did one for his 56 Dodge car (I have a 56 as well, that is why I asked him to do the 3/4 ton kit). If I recall, that number is his cell phone. I have nothing against tallzag, just want to let everyone know that Roger is very helpful too, is into mopars as much as we are, and has quite a bit of experience doing this. It is good to have choices. Many of you might not know Roger, but if you swing by http://www.forwardlook.net , you'll find he has advertising on that site (it is for late 50's mopars) and has made many kits for mopars of that vintage.

Just my ':2cents'

Big_G

tallzag · Post by **tallzag** » Sun Nov 05, 2006 5:32 pm

We bottom holes are 1/2" on our kit and everyone who has done the kit so far had that size.

AAJ makes good products, but we think our kit works a little better and for less.

RH62 · Post by **RH62** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 12:01 pm

Would I need to change my single Reservoir master cylinder, if so which one would i use?
Did you post a parts list? I coudlnt seem to find it on this post.
If anyone has some pictures of the completed setup or pictures of the process of installation it would be greatly appreciated if you post.
Thanks
Rich

tallzag · Post by **tallzag** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:22 pm

Here is a link to the instructions on my website:

http://www.tallzag.com/product/SBSW

Just click on the link in the product.

Your single will work fine with the conversion, although I have seen too many of them fail and I would personally upgrade while you are doing the brakes. If your going to go to a dual you will want to get one from a 72 Dodge Truck, which is mentioned in the instructions.

Big_G · Post by **Big_G** » Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:55 pm

Tallzag, I would have to emphatically disagree with your comment about using a single resevoir master cylinder with a disc brake system. Awhile back I did some research when I was thinking of going to front disc brakes. MP Brakes, a well known company in hot rodding circles, essentially wrote the following: Disc brakes use more fluid. Another is the advantage of not having your brake system stuck with just one source of fluid. Additionally, drum master cylinders may have 10 lb residual valves in them which will create a drag on the disc.

Yes, it is more work, time and money to put in a dual. But it is the right, and in my mind, only way to do it. RH62, don't use a single master.

zdatdodge · Post by **zdatdodge** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:13 pm

I just got the aaj bracket kit for the front. I have to say that Roger is very helpful. I got the brackets in 1weeks time also.
I may have tried this kit but I had just ordered when I saw this post. The brackets themselves do not seem all that much to make and the tallzag kit seems to have them priced a little better.
I cant speak for the service, however aaj would be hard to beat in that dept.
When it comes time to do the rears I will consider trying one of the tallzag brackets.
PS: the single master might work but the dual master cylinder should definitely be first choice like tallzag mentioned.

Russ · Post by **Russ** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:50 am

I have to second what Big-D said. If you convert to disc brakes you really should get a master cylinder that is designed for disc. A drum brake mc has a residual valve in it that maintains 9 - 10 psi in the brake system. Since there is no mechanical means of retracting the piston in a caliper you don't want any residual pressure in the lines. The kit sounds good, wish there was one for a four wheel drive, but I think you will not get the best results from it if you don't use the proper mc.

TimLG · Post by **TimLG** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:48 pm

I'll probably catch alot of grief over this: Are any of these brake or steering conversions "engineered"? Seems like there should be some kind of DOT approval process involved or at least an approval or certification from a Professional Engineer. Not like they are selling seat covers or floor mats. Maybe there is something like that, just don't recall seeing anything. I'd hate to find out something in my brakes or steering is under-engineered a little.
Tim G

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:42 pm

Tim, remember that DOT testing and standings are set at the time the product (vehicle) was new. Believe me if I personally install a part or make a part to install on someone elses vehicle it will be safe, perform beyond OE expectations, and will make it do its job. I also know I am personally liable in a court system. I'm quite sure any manufacuted safety part you get from a fellow member or aftermarket company is built and would hold up to these standards. Unless a disclosure is used ie: not for highway use, for display purposes only, etc..... well you get the idea. I'm sure upgrading to later model year safety related components with higher standards is always going to be safer than what you had.

Of course if someone says this is how I fixed mine, and sends pics, and you think its kinda hokey or weak looking because of the bailing wire, well use your own judgement.

You did bring up a good point though.

Just my

Roger · Post by **Roger** » Wed Nov 08, 2006 7:43 pm

Tim, remember that DOT testing and standings are set at the time the product (vehicle) was new. Believe me if I personally install a part or make a part to install on someone elses vehicle it will be safe, perform beyond OE expectations, and will make it do its job. I also know I am personally liable in a court system. I'm quite sure any manufacuted safety part you get from a fellow member or aftermarket company is built and would hold up to these standards. Unless a disclosure is used ie: not for highway use, for display purposes only, etc..... well you get the idea. I'm sure upgrading to later model year safety related components with higher standards is always going to be safer than what you had.

Of course if someone says this is how I fixed mine, and sends pics, and you think its kinda hokey or weak looking because of the bailing wire, well use your own judgement.

You did bring up a good point though.

Just my

RH62 · Post by **RH62** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 2:57 pm

you think a setup like this would work? If so how hard would it be to adapt?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1965-197 ... enameZWDVW

Big_G · Post by **Big_G** » Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:11 pm

I don't have powerbrakes on my conversion, and I really don't think I would gain much from doing it. It isn't that hard to stop it. My gut reaction is that they already engineered the pedal geometry so that it would stop a truck without a horrible amount of effort without the power booster. Have you tried stopping a truck that was designed to use a booster and the booster didn't work? That is hard.

Not an expert though, take with a grain of salt.

I'd say put the money you'd spend on that into using the dual master cylinder. You'd want a good double-flare tool for the brake line ends. I've got a Ridgid tool that is pretty good. Cost about $60-70. You'll have less success with a $15 cheapy from Harbor Freight, and in the end spend more on redoing bad flares.

Just my 2 cents.

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Sun Apr 22, 2007 2:25 pm

hate to bring up an old thread, but using the part #'s in the instructions for the parts including his brackets puts it at 507.. not 300 my

this also includes a 72 d100 dual MC

tallzag · Post by **tallzag** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 3:58 pm

Where did you go shopping for the parts? A Member on this board did it for under $250 but he used used parts, I did it on Rockauto.com and it was about $250 for all of the parts. Probably more like $400 for everything, seems the prices for some of this stuff has gone up.

Snowdogg · Post by **Snowdogg** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 4:03 pm

tallzag wrote:Where did you go shopping for the parts? A Member on this board did it for under $250 but he used used parts, I did it on Rockauto.com and it was about $250 for all of the parts. Probably more like $400 for everything, seems the prices for some of this stuff has gone up.

I think a lot of the price diferances depends on what part of the country you live in. I've noticed a lot of diferant price's through out the nation.

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 5:33 pm

i did it at checker.com, i wanna do all new stuff if im gonna do this, but still 500 for disc conversion isnt bad, ill check out that site you mentioned and see if i can get it all for cheaper.

383mrollg · Post by **383mrollg** » Mon Apr 23, 2007 5:43 pm

rockauto.com, to ship to my house and including everything is $510 and this is all new parts.

motomatt383 · Post by **motomatt383** » Sat Apr 28, 2007 6:31 am

well i ordered my brackets this mornin', can't wait til they get here!!! I'll repost when i get it done with final pricing.

matt

motomatt383 · Post by **motomatt383** » Sun May 06, 2007 9:00 pm

got my brackets the other day, went to Auto Zone this mornin' got the rotors, calipers(loaded), brake hoses & banjo fittings for 196bucks plus tax. still need a master cylinder & proportioning valve. but i beleive i have a parts truck i can get them off( and there still good).

matt